Strokermjcomanche

Not really, went camping a handful of times and it did the job as is . My mom is dealing with cancer related issues as of now , so most of the time I stay at her house . Any spare time I have goes to more priority projects etc .

You could put the center E brake cover it doesn’t have power mirrors in if you feel like it.

Auto body shops have some collision plastic for when vehicles get damaged. It keeps the water out and it’s already adhesive.

I have already primed the engine, Plus the lifters were soaked in oil previously before installed. 4.7 stroker . 96 intake . Gibson header newcomer t stat housing and lifetime copper intake/exhaust gasket along with the winged washers and bolts for intake exhaust .

The lifters I used were Mopar p4529220 / pushrods are p4529675 . With the current pushrods I have, while turning the crank it stays near the center of the valve stem. Although If I have the incorrect pushrod length that will have a factor correct? I have an adjustable pushrod coming. I guess another question would be if I’m only supposed to partially preload the lifter What keeps me from being able to grab the roller part the rocker arm and lift up on it ?

So I’m putting together an engine. Got a few things to finish up, One is getting the lifter preload set. I’ve done this before on my GM 2.8, With it running backing off the center not and then tightening Till the noise goes awayEtc . The problem I’m running into here, or at least I think I am is if I lift the rocker arm off of the valve I can stick my pinky up underneath there. I can say I honestly haven’t checked that in the past to know if that’s good or bad. If that is acceptable how should I set the lifter preload/ Or what should It be set to? Harland Sharpe’s website was vague in my opinion. I got these used so they came with no instructions. I would also like to add that the block was never decked because it was within spec, it is a new Edelbrock head , I am using factory length pushrods , And 1.6 ratio roller rockers , The Cam is comp cams 496 lift ,cometic gasket

Sent you a PMSent you a PM

https://comancheclub.com/topic/54541-bucket-seat-trim-bezels-interest-update-8-20-20/

I’m keeping all that. It’s the front part on the trailer that’s going to go get scrapped. It makes sense now thinking that you thought I was gonna get rid of the bed.

Rockers cab corners and floors are rusted, all the seals are shot on the back slider. What else do you consider good?

Going to the scrap yard tomorrow.

It may have changed names since then. But the number is still on or if you feel like calling it. Looks like the same truck though, and it’s in Yuma.It may have changed names since then. But the number is still on or if you feel like calling it. Looks like the same truck though, and it’s in Yuma.

SEM trim black It’s probably the best thing to use for them.

I called them, stating that the previous email told me I didn’t have to pay until two weeks before the items would be shipped out. Today’s email said that it may slow down my order if I don’t pay in a “timely manner “ I asked about that and they said as long as you pay the two weeks ahead of time it should not delay shipping.

Air aid 310-136

Camper , It’s not gonna be hack job either

The space I have to work with is about 16 3/4 inches wide and 9 1/4 inches tall. Cutting the opening and making it bigger is not an option. I was thinking a sill air conditioner would work possibly, but I don’t have any real world experience with them. If that doesn’t work I may be forced to use a portable air conditioner. Thanks for your help as usual

Normally I get a small cut off wheel and cut the bolt in between the manifold and the head pipe. Those bolts are spline pressed in and will come out with an air chisel or ball joint press.

The red is the power wire for the hood light. The white is the vacuum line for the heater valve

X2 I think I even have a new one, not sure if that matters or not. I would want to put it around a piece of glass before sending it to make sure that didn’t shrink at all.

I will be there. I will either have my black or white Comanche, possibly my white Cherokee. And I’ll have my Comanche camper trailer At the campground

The tube is correct, you just need a different handle. I believe the handle that you needed from 87 through 92 Comanche and some of the earlier Cherokee’s have the same handle if I recall correctly

I would check and see if your insurance would cover it.My insurance company will replace the glass for free as I have comprehensive. Especially if it’s got chips\Nicks In your line of sight they typically don’t repair those. I would also advise you To get the molding clips ahead of time as most glass shops don’t have them in stock. The clips (especially if they’re brittle ) will break easily. The clips are only around 20 bucks if you shop around, sometimes cheaper. If i recall correctly you need 17 of them