87Warrior

Define cheap. To me, a cheap mod is under $100. There is really nothing you can do for this price to get more power. You could try the 99+ intake manifold. Some reviews say it adds to the butt dyno, others say it is a waste and can actually hurt performance. Research and make your own conclusions.

Probably have a limited slip rear end, not a spool. Having the rear end spinning both tires would help immensely.

High clearance and a solid bottom to the mud. The bald tires up front also probably don't cake up which will prevent the front tires from turning. Your mud must not be anything like our dense clay muck. After a good rain the only way to access our remote property is in a high clearance rig that is locked front and rear. It even struggles. When driven right, a 2wd can do a lot.

I would buy a set of sliders for a long bed truck in a heart beat if they tucked up close to the body and came out 1-2" past the rocker. A rear bumper that extends the full width of the bed and curves to protect the corners would be awesome as well, though I am MOST interested in sliders. JCR sold bumpers with an integrated hitch to a few members, where the 2" receiver was much too large for a standard drop hitch to safely fit in. It had A LOT of extra play and would rattle.

Was it a special sale? If so, that happens a lot with online vendors. As long as they honor the sale price when more come in, it should be good. Although it is the pits you can't get what you paid for when you expect it. Been there, done that. Whenever something like that happens to me, I give the the vendor one week or I cancel my order.

If the doors are in good shape you had better pull them. A good set of 2door, doors, are harder to find than a straight MJ bumper.

Fix it. Find a replacement motor and install it. Shouldn't cost you more than a couple hundred bucks total. You ought to be able to rent a hoist if needed. Also, pick up an engine leveler to make the swap faster. Should only require basic hand tools to do it.

I'll say it again, JeepSticker rules!

www.greatlakesxj.com also has FSMs available for download.

The 97+ pump module mounts through the top.

Looks good. I did notice that the shackle integration will only work on the short bed trucks.

I have a slightly better score than my wife, none the less they are both great. She has additional 'store' credit cards in addition to her normal card. We both wanted to ditch the first credit cards we got before we were married and get new cards (still separately) through our bank. You know, for simplicity's sake. I got a letter of denial from the bank within a week. Two weeks later, she got a card in the mail. Curiosity got the best of me so I asked the bank why. I was told my wife has more credit history because of the extra store credit cards and a student loan which is what they want to see. I have had my one credit card for 3 years longer than she has and have paid my tuition in full. Seems backwards to me. :thwak:

I find him slightly entertaining, but only watch him because he comes after Conan when I am to lazy to find something else to watch. I will say it. Yes, he is racist and I know it. Having grown up in a very diverse community I don't know why he has the lay it on at all. It is annoying. You'd never catch any of the 'other' guys on at the same time doing it. BTW- Conan is my favorite!

Don't forget the V8 ZJ adjustment sleeve. The TRE attaches to the tie rod differently than the MJs. For the drag link, get the MJ ends. I doubt they are referred to as a TREs though.

Rocky Mountain National Park 2006 Route National Forrest 2006 Seven Falls 2006 Balanced Rock 2008 Italian Creek 2008 Engineer Pass "Oh Point" 2009 Cinnamon Pass 2009

ZJ, TJ, XJ, MJ share the same drag link. V8 ZJ has a heavier duty tie rod. You will need the V8 ZJ TRE and adjustment sleeve.

While I can't comment about the Ohio Crank company, a quick google search led me to believe there is a new Eagle 4340 Forged 327 Crankshaft available for you motor. I did not search to see if they are available in the small and large size. Is there any reason why you are not wanting to get the stock one ground and polished?

My thoughts exactly. Its not even a good photoshop, its on the lower end of MSpaint quality. Even if the concept is real, we all know the production rig won't be nearly as cool. Jeep has teased us so much in the last several years I don't bother trying to research any of their concept rigs anymore.

On the c2c website they advertise 2-5 delivery. Hope mine show up in the next day or so.

I would probably do the 2.5 MPFI with the AW4, if possible. Although, if it was my truck I would find a 97+ 4cyl XJ donor and swap everything over.

:rotf: IT USED TO!!! $2700 would be hard to swallow for a wrecked MJ. But it could have that rarity that makes it worth it...

If the alignment and balancing doesn't get rid of the vibe I would replace the ujoints as previously mentioned. They are now at slightly different angles and out of their wear pattern. How is the slip yoke riding? Is it possible with the driveshaft shortening that it is pulled out of your transmission some, thus not providing as much spline to spin on?

Hold on one second, how come I haven't been invited to any of the Elitist meetings. I feel left out :dunce: Congrats on the truck. She looks solid.

What are you up against? Lots of work. For reference check out the following builds: Utilitarian MJ - JeepCoMJ 1990 Rebirth - Ryan 1992/1999 build - Me! Project Onyx - Shelbyluv There are others who have done the 97+ conversion but I cannot recall who they are. Most questions regarding the swap can be found in the builds with different ways to accomplish the same thing. You should be able to install the 4.0 frame mounts in the engine bay. Use the cross member for the right transmission.

Just what the title says. I am searching for two straight bumper end caps for a factory MJ bumper. Discoloration is fine. Thanks :D