yxmj

That is why I suggested it......because we are going through that issue right now......my son just got his first jeep (XJ) has a set of 31 inch Yokohama Geo-landers on it (Nice aggressive Tread tire....but LOUD on pavement) He has major rub issues (stock XJ old-school rims) so his fast solution is for me to give him my 31's off the MJ (Gee why didn't i think of that :shake: ) because they are mounted on deep dish Eagle's and are out too far to rub..... My solution was to get on Kijiji and start looking for rims...... :thumbsup: I have personally never run spacers.....never felt comfortable with them.......but that being said it took me years to lose my apprehension of running aluminum rims over steel.....but now I have Deep dish on my YJ as well

I will veer somewhat off topic......it might be easier and cheaper (since you say you just want it for hauling wood and goofing around) to just get a set of rims with a different back set (deeper dish) it will push your rubber out to prevent rubbing and give a wider stance... just a thought :dunno:

You say you are putting a SBC If you are going that rout anyway why not go all Bowtie....hook up a Turbo 400 short shaft ( or comparible 4 speed standard)....that will give you the options of all the NP cases that GM used to run.....a 208 should be more than enough......bump it up to a 203 (might need a PT kit)......or go all the way with a 205 and never worry about stretching or breaking a chain again. :rock on:

Since both quit working at the same time my best guess is a vac line is off. Quick test is this.....with the truck in park (motor running) take the vac line off the CAD put your finger over the hole on the line that was closest to the passenger wheel....feel vacuum? Now put your finger over the hole on the other line (the one on the CAD side) have a friend pull up on the 4x4 shifter you should feel vacuum on that side. If no vacuum trace the lines back....they go first to the firewall then down to a "Switch" on the transfer case with 4 vac lines.....along the way make sure all lines are connected and intact......you probably had a line knocked off or broken in the swap. To answer you question the transfer case is activated "ENGAGED" when you manually pull the lever back to 4Hi....this pushes a ball on the switch that divers the vacuum from one side of the cad to the other causing the fork to move and slide the sleeve over the split it the axles to join them....it also activated a switch that turns on the 4x4 light.... . :MJ 1: . Good Luck

Why would you take the drive shaft off to pull the motor?

Like the man says MORE INFO My first to Guess-ta-mates are......Tire out of balance.....U-joint.........but really more info needed

96 and up use a bigger 760X U joint on the axle shaft itself....connecting the main shafts to the stub shafts (if your new axle is a 96 it will have them) so if you are installing the whole axle it is a non issue. Is the question in your first post about the drive shaft u-joints?

Nobody asked so I will....How Much $$$

Cheat......what is the VIN?

Never done it ......but My son just picked up a XJ were the PO had more stero than truck.... :doh: .......one of those thumpers that you hear when they pull up at a stoplight... :rock on: They had a run of 02 straight back from the battery to under the seat for there amp. So i would look at a stereo shop for wire and connectors and fuses......the only other thing I would add is a big relay?solenoid? that was hooked to the fuse box so that you could shut it down with the ignition and not kill the battery

Not often. I had to go to the store and there was snow on the mountain. I have a problem with the shift solenoid on the transfer case, so I had to open the hood and hook the vacuum up to the front axle so that the axle would lock. About half way down the mountain, I ran out of the snow, so I coutinued the trip the last 3 miles still in 4WD. Going back up...while still on dry pavement is when the transaxle did its thing. I was sure that the noise came from the transfer case, but I wanted confirmation. I need to fix the vacuum solenoid to avoid this in the future. I ran the other transfer case a few times for short distance without problems. I guess the chain in this one is a little loose. I have two spares because these transfer cases for the "'Puke geot" transmissions won't fit anything else....the input spline count is different. Thanks for the responses steve The other cases could possibly be NP207's.....but that chain would fit the 231.......but for the hassle it might be worth while to get a new one....i picked up one for $70 with shipping off ebay (shipped to Canada). The manual disconnect is another option that has been out for a while.. .http://www.summitracing.com/int/search/department/transmission-drivetrain/section/differential-rear-end-components/part-type/front-axle-engagement-systems-manual/stock-4wd-actuation-style/central-axle-disconnect-cad I actually made my own for my Yj using a cable I picked up at an farm supply place ( comparable to your "Tractor supply" down there) I had already done the bolt it solid methode so I just replaced that bolt with the threaded cable end and ran the other to the cab by the shifter....It is a nice option to be able to quickly disengage the front (like in a sharp U-turn) then re-engage with just the pull of a knob. I have had it for a while and like it. (Google it and you will see blogs from YJ and XJ guys who have made there own and show step how to instructions PS as you can see from my location I drive on snow/ice 50% of the time

As the ad says they fit CJ, YJ,TJ, so they would fold forward. A YJ's seat will will be a very close bolt pattern to the MJ's pedestal. A little fabrication will get them to work.

As one who has both Jeeps the answer is YES/BUT Stock YJ front shocks are a direct bolt up (you have to save the cross pin from the old shocks and press it in) for a MJ or XJ WITH 2.5"- 3.5" of lift Rears will work (same save the pin and press in advice) but on stock height.......so unless you have a stock rear height and 3" lift in the front you can not run them on the same MJ.....but if the price is right.......why not. I just went though building a 3.5" lift for my sons XJ and to get quality shocks and keep it on budget we spent an hour or so on line downloading specs for different trucks of different years (instead of driving around or calling) then we ended up going down to a KYB distributor and took advantage of sales on some "slow" stock......For about $100 and taxes we walked out with front YJ shocks and rears off of a mid 90's ford 4x4 (ranger or F150 worked).....good heavey duty shocks with KYB's lifetime warranty :thumbsup:

X2 "The problem is that when I'm driving on dry pavement and the truck is in 4 wheel high there will be a slight jump along with a bump and noise (bang) ...like the transfer case is jumping in and out of gear." That is the sound/feeling of your chain jumping a cog

If you can get the u-bolts off alive ......you should be able to re-use them....a simple calculation for how much lift the SOA will give can be done by measuring from the bottom of the axle to the top of the perch then adding the pack measurement (keep in mind this does not account for normal spring sag ). i don't think you will need to add a leaf I think you will end up with about 5.5" sitting in the driveway.....put your 4.5 on the front and you might like the raked stance.....or put in a thicker upper spring isolator to level it out. You will still have to re-position the perches on the 8.25

The front will work. Take a measurement from center of spring perch to center of spring perch on both axle's and that will answer your question.....I think if i remember right the 8.24 is a bit wider. (and of course the axle will go under the spring so your stock springs will possibly not need to be changed as you will get lift from the under axle positioning) I am not sure I understand your u-joint question

My apologies....I did not mean for it to sound heated.....just a strong proponent of re-enforcing the uni-body frame and center point recovery points. :oops:

A rear hitch isn't, but if you bought a new Cherokee with the off-road package and no hitch, the factory rear tow point was ONE hook, that was hung off ONE frame rail (don't remember which, because I took it off a long time ago). Please back you statement by showing that the off centered (even if factory offered) towing/recovery point is superior to a re-enforces center one that was suggested whether for the tower or the towee..... I have never seen a tow truck with a boom on the side.....or a front (or rear) mounted winch that suggests side mounting is preferred?????

You should re-look at the hitch.....it actually would end up being mounted high up than the conventional bottom mounted tow hooks would be......We have copied this exact model for our own use and are mounting it withe success on XJ's as well as my MJ....the cross bar adds so much strength...and i really have always been a fan of on center connection point on the front.....after all a rear hitch is not off centerd

Here are the new dollies I made up for myself The one one the right is just a 1" tee mounted on a handle.....the one on the left I peened a flat ridge ........and the middle i opened the tee up and peened it flat I guess the goal is to try to get as many shapes as possible so that you have a backer for whatever you encounter. Not shown here but i just picked up are an end cap for a 1.5" copper pipe as well as a 1.5" copper coupler......the end cap i will use as is a nice flat 1.5" circle....the coupler i am going to make a cross cut then peen it down into a flat sheet (should end up to be 1.5" x 4.75").....the flat sheet I am going to try to hold to the sheetmetal with a couple of rare earth magnets that i picked up ( this i saw was being marketed by another company and looks slick)

I have some on the cell phone and will upload and post when I am on my own computer.....(no I am not on CCF @ work...that would be wrong) :rock on:

Yes but could not pick them up at my local supply that day they had to order it in.....so my $4 worth of copper T's worked out OK :thumbsup: If anyone is interested and you google copper backing plate there is a company out there that has a nice copper plate with magnets embedded in it that looks like it would be an easy hands free method

Yes but in this case it would have been nice if the memory had kicked in a little closer to the beginning of the job instead of the end... :doh: ..but on the brightside I am ready to do mine now :banana:

Getting ready to fix the 3 rust holes in the MJ’s floor pans…..Lucky for me my sons XJ has the same problem so I was able to hone my skills by practicing on his… :brows: Pulled the seats and carpeting…..cut out the rust spots….formed up some patches out of some 18 ga. ( I even got fancy and was able to bend the stiffening ribs that are formed in the pan for strength) and proceeded to weld them in…….just like hundreds before …….stated getting frustrated with burn through after burn through on the thin material…..then a bit of wisdom from my misspent youth hit me like a ton of bricks….(and I am not claiming to have invented this method….it is all over the web…I just wanted to relay how well it worked for me) :thumbsup: Went to the hardware store and picked up three 1” copper t’s like below….one I left the area shown by the red arrows just as it was…rounded….the next I put a piece of ¾” key stock in the vice…slid the tee over it and peened it down flat…..the third I not only peened the top flat….but then I took a cold chisel and formed an indented line from one end to the other…..On all three I inserted about 6” of old broom handle (Blue). Now with these 3 copper dollies I was able to fill not only the smallest pin holes but some good size gaps as well. We just cleaned to bare metal (all welding was done from the top) then placed the copper dolly as a backer on the bottom and proceeded to weld….The steel weld would puddle nicely penetrate into the pan and patch but the dolly acted in two ways….as a heat sink to keep the weld from burning trough and as steel will not adhere to copper …as a great removable backer that could be pulled away after the puddle cooled and leave a strong weld that was quick and easy to do. . :MJ 1: . Hope you have the same luck we did :thumbsup:

Well compressor choice aside....if you are not married to the idea of the tank being portable ......google bumper air tank. It is the route I took years back with my YJ and have been using it and been happy with it all along. I had fabed my own front and back bumpers from some 6x3 rectangular 3/16" wall tubing.....tapering the ends and making them look styling & profiling just like the smitty built and other brands you see for sale. After the fact I just simply drilled a hole in the bottom for a drain bung and another on the top back side (trying to keep it safe and out of the way) Were i mounted a tee with an air coupler.......coil up a chunk of hose and store it out of the way and done deal. For refilling I can do many things without an actual motor driven compressor.....Fill the tanks (bumpers) at home before I leave......stop at any service station with air and fill up.....or now just recently i picked up one of those little 12v compressors with a digital control so I can pump up at my convenience anywhere. Just another view.....I am happy with it ( and so are the long line of people I have aired up over the years. . :MJ 1: .