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yxmj

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Everything posted by yxmj

  1. I can help with the light......and start you on the path for the stalling http://comancheclub.com/topic/19732-random-informative-picture-thread/ Look at Pic#9 That box is located to the right of your steering column....unplug it....no more light Look at Cruisers Renix tip thread..http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/..start with the ground refresh :thumbsup:
  2. I replaced mine with a new old stock Xj (I am planning on swapping in a 4L so it made sense) the only mod was a longer upper hose was required I also own a YJ, and that rad from either the 2.5L or the 4L will be a direct bolt in for you (both hoses will work)
  3. 3rd or 4th post down..... http://bentframe4x4.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=jeeptech&action=display&thread=132
  4. yxmj

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    Keep it hid
  5. yxmj

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    If you have to ask.......then the question is answered... :thumbsup:
  6. That is not exactly right......Spend some time on Google and you will get the procedure......You will have to pull the wheel...remove the indicator switch...then it just takes a push with a flat screwdriver....
  7. yxmj

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    I take it from info in your signature your representing the Sox / Alabama / and 4.6L Stroked MJ's in #4.....NICE
  8. If I understand your question correctly then I do not understand your question.. :hmm: ...all of my buckets have the option to "tilt" the back of the seat.... :dunno: (But I am speaking of XJ an YJ seats I do not have factory MJ's)
  9. I think you mean Aussi :thumbsup: Cuz Ozzie is to busy making appearances with Sabbath to make lockers Try this site http://lokka.com/site/ They will have what you need.....Only $250 (must be shipping as well :dunno: )
  10. You guys have me thinking now.....I have a set stored a bit of distance away....took them out of a 98 XJS 2 door....the reason I kept them is that when we measured them and compared them with a set of 4 door seats and if i remember right they were both wider and deeper. But when i look at the pic of the 2 side by side on the other page they look the same..... :hmm:
  11. Beautiful truck....what a find 1JTBL6576GT086883. 1-Made in Usa J -Manufactured by jeep Corporation T- Truck (86 only) B - 2.1 Renault Diesel I-4 L -5 speed manual part time 4x4 65 – Comanche Truck 4wd LWB 7- Comanche X standard payload 6-check digit G-1986 T –check digit 086883- Serial #
  12. On the Lokka site just choose your make (jeep) model(comanche) and year(1986) axle(d35) and it will give you the correct part # click to order done deal :thumbsup: now we sit in silence until the locker is in your hands :roll:
  13. FYI Red-wolf.....most would prefer a non c-clip.....so maybe you have better than you though :thumbsup:
  14. No Problem This review seems to shine on you choice of SR/A's http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Wrangler+SR-A From your driving description it seems a perfect fit
  15. An 86 Dana 35 shouldn't have C-clips. It should have tapered roller bearings similar to a Dana 44 for wheel bearings. It's still a 27 spline axle though so don't go hammering on it. A LocRite or Aussie locker will give you a lot more traction in 2WD. The OP's signature says it is a c-clip diff :dunno:.....and from what my research shows the Lokka locker above that I link to.....is basically a different name for an Aussie The "Dana 35C" in the OP's signature stands for custom, meaning it came from the Dana factory not completely assembled. The C has nothing to do with whether it has c-clips or not. Good to know....thanks for the clarification......so what is "custom" about that particular D35 :hmm: ....just because it came un-assembled :hmm:
  16. An 86 Dana 35 shouldn't have C-clips. It should have tapered roller bearings similar to a Dana 44 for wheel bearings. It's still a 27 spline axle though so don't go hammering on it. A LocRite or Aussie locker will give you a lot more traction in 2WD. The OP's signature says it is a c-clip diff :dunno:.....and from what my research shows the Lokka locker above that I link to.....is basically a different name for an Aussie
  17. If they are as bad as you say they probably cause some shimmy and shake but not legitimate DW. You question is hard to answer without more info....were are you located....in warmer climate? or some place were snow is a factor? Any good quality all season or all terrain would be a replacement.....Right now I have: 1 Set P235/75/R15 Good Year wranglers (just what you requested) on my daughters Xj....nice tire, good traction good tread, quite on the road, carry a load and handles well. 1 Set P235/75/r15 Cooper all season on my wife's XJ ...nice tire, good traction good tread quite on the road carry a load and handles well....has a softer compound so it seems to hook up on the ice a bit better than the Good years 2 sets of BFG All Terrain, 1-275/75/R15 on my 2 door XJ Lorado and one set of 31's on the MJ.....these tires I like in all conditions but gumbo....IMHO the tread is too close together and gets gummed up to quick 1 set of 31x10.5x15 Yokahma Geolanders on my son's 2 door XJS...these are a good aggressive tread in snow and mud....heavy wall and hard tread (I ran one at 10 psi for a while ....unknowingly....and the tire barely looked low) The only complaint(s) i have with these are the hard compound is brutal on icy or slick surfaces....like trying to walk across a hockey rink in dress shoes....and unusually loud for the tread pattern (they remind me of my old school ground hawgs the way they howl on the hi-way). 1 set of Pro-comp 33x12x15 All Terrain on my YJ.....I like these tires the thread is like a street tread on steroids....Aggressive in the snow and ice....good on the slippery surfaces and amazingly quite for the lug size ( and on this one you are running topless most of the time so you can really hear it). Don't know if this helps but just a cross section AND MY LAST PIECE OF ADVISE.....WHATEVER YOU CHOOSE SPEND THE COUPLE OF EXTRA $$ AND GET THEM ALL BALANCED :thumbsup:
  18. X2 If you look at a common front hanger for a older Grand Cherokee it could easily bolt in ( you would need both parts not just the one)
  19. Check the other thread you started i explain how in about 10 minutes with a piece of pipe and a chuck of flat plate you could make one...Or have someone fab one up. http://comancheclub.com/topic/41653-exhaust-hangers/
  20. Your description has me a bit confused….. :dunno: So my answer is this….if you have right now the rubber isolator with the “U” shaped cut out in some way bolted to your cross member ….then all you will need is the part you say (52003040)….ask if it comes with bolts…..if not you will have to get a couple of appropriate bolts to bolt her up. This might not be for you but for anyone out there who needs one of these and has some fab skills: 1) An angle grinder with a cut off wheel to cut a piece of pipe length wise twice (to make the half pipe) 2) A 3”x 3” piece of 10 ga. steel….drill 2 hole…..grind the arc cut out for the pipe…..weld the u-pipe you made at 90°……..done deal
  21. Google YJ SOA images and you might get a pic of the bracket
  22. This pic is taken from the passenger side looking back on the cross-member..... On my mj the u shaped bar is bolted to the back side of the exhaust flange and faces to the front (is this the part you are looking for?)
  23. If you look at the large exploded picture.....the down pipe (1) bolts by a 4 bolted flange end to the cat/pipe ( #4 or #12) the bracket (#9) bolts up right at that junction...I have see them with 2 studs....like the picture ....or just holes that would take bolts
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