yxmj

Aftermarket Competitors AIRTEX 4G1141 aftermarket BORG WARNER 57133 aftermarket BORG WARNER 67167 aftermarket BOSCH 280155703 aftermarket CHRYSLER 5277739 OEM ECHLIN 2-18666 aftermarket GP/SORENSEN 800-1212N aftermarket KEM 142-620 aftermarket NIEHOFF 57133 aftermarket STANDARD / HYGRADE FJ213 aftermarket TOMCO 15645 aftermarket WELLS M124 aftermarket Found In CHRYSLER CIRRUS LX (1995 - 1997) CHRYSLER CIRRUS LXI 1997 CHRYSLER SEBRING JX (1996 - 1997) CHRYSLER SEBRING JXI 1997 DODGE CARAVAN (1996 - 1997) DODGE CARAVAN SE (1996 - 1997) DODGE GRAND CARAVAN (1996 - 1997) DODGE GRAND CARAVAN SE (1996 - 1997) DODGE NEON (1995 - 1997) DODGE NEON HIGHLINE (1995 - 1997) DODGE NEON SPORT (1995 - 1997) DODGE STRATUS (1995 - 1997) DODGE STRATUS ES (1995 - 1997) PLYMOUTH BREEZE 1996 PLYMOUTH GRAND VOYAGER (1996 - 1997) PLYMOUTH GRAND VOYAGER SE (1996 - 1997) PLYMOUTH NEON (1995 - 1997) PLYMOUTH NEON HIGHLINE (1995 - 1997) PLYMOUTH NEON SPORT 1995 PLYMOUTH VOYAGER (1996 - 1997) PLYMOUTH VOYAGER SE (1996 - 1997)

Check out the thread below that says 2.5 oil leak....there is a nice pic of what you need there http://comancheclub.com/topic/41719-25l-oil-leak/

HA HA Here is Cruiser's answer from another site http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/1989-cherokee-blend-door-heat-air-1151030/

I am confused as to why you would need to put a lid back on a bottle :hmm:

Have a look at this thread.....http://comancheclub.com/topic/41624-heater-core-valve-hub-delete-25/ If you have that valve look at the way i describe to by-pass it ( a couple of hose joiners and 4 hose clamps is the fastest)....That way you know you are getting hot coolant all the time. If that does not solve it then look at your blend door. A tip on heater core flushing.......Just picked up another XJ for my youngest and heat was a problem (lately here it has been getting down to -40)......Leaned on a chance experiment i tried years ago..... most modern cores can still have water pass even though the heat passages are blocked....Grabbed myself a $7 jug of CLR (Yes CLR....I don't care what is says on the bottle....I am not trying to shine the core to a polished finish......i am trying to remove deposits) and a $2 jug of vinegar. Since it was so cold went down to a local car wash...Removed heater hoses at the T-stat and water pump let them drain in a pail and cool....Then I blew threw the top hose till just air came out....raised both hose ends up above the level of the core and poured CLR in the BOTTOM hose until it dribbled out the top hose......Then I went and vacuumed the interior....Came back put a coin in the slot set the washer to hot rinse and put it in both hoses one after the other....lots of crud.....Puffed up my cheeks and blew it out again.....repeated with vinegar...twice.....filled and let set for about 5 min each time....after the 4th coin the core made a "BURP" and let loose a puddle of mud you would not believe....one more rinse until the water ran clean...blew out the core...hooked up the bottom hose.....filled the top up with coolant....hooked it back up....took off the rad cap ran the tuck to temp....added fluid to the rad....put the cap on and topped up the reservoir. HE HAS HEAT YOU COULD WELD RAILWAY TRACK WITH :thumbsup:

COME ON GUYS BE REALISTIC,,,,,,you put her in the back you have to feed her to get her out........cuz if you offer her anything else she will just stick around.....it is just not economically feasible.......there must be another way.........

Ha Ha...Really...-40 here now feels warm from the -56..... Can't give driving advice.........when you go to pull out from a side street do wish you had more of a lift so you could see over the 7' snowbanks the plows left? :thumbsup: This is were all the locker/tire lift talk that is here every day comes to reality....cuz we use it everyday ...... that being said....let the truck warm up a bit longer (up here we have "command start".....remote start on you key chain,,,,,so you do not have to go outside),,,,make sure you have a all season or all terrain tread on your driving tires.....its a Jeep trust it....i live by the sprint car mantra.....Driving left and steering right :thumbsup:

Nice find....the rack inside is worth the $20 alone. :thumbsup:

I don't mean any offence but maybe you should wait till dark to do this.....you know.....in case anybody see's :brows:

How old is you PCV valve?

Just a quick walk through on how easy it is to rebuild/repair a master cylinder. Determine if it is your master cylinder…..If you have leakage in the cab over the fuse panel….YES No leakage but soft clutch …or you have to double or triple pump to get clutch… take off the MC reservoir lid…press on the clutch…..does the fluid rise in the reservoir and/or do bubbles come out? If so then.....Yes To be sure remove the exit line (shown in the pick below with a red arrow) …….place a rag to catch any spillage and push the clutch down……is there a strong blast of fluid shooting out…..if not then…..YES Rebuild kits are available….but unless you have leakage in the cab you might not need one. If you have determined the master cylinder is bad ….you have to remove it anyway…take a couple of minutes and see if you can’t do this quick repair/modification before you shell out $$ for a new one. Removal/Repair/Modification Tools required- 7/16 Wrench ½ wrench ½ socket with extension and ratchet Snap ring pliers Flat screw driver Air compressor If you have fluid left drain it out….I use a clear plastic Turkey baster that will suck it all out with a couple of pumps….if the fluid is new and clean some might what to re-use it. This is a YJ but the position mounting and proceedure are the same. To make removal easy I like to take off the reservoir (bolt with blue arrow) Then a 7/16 for the line fitting (red) and the two mounting nuts….the bottom one is a stud in the fire wall and easy to do…the top is a bolt (why not a stud again?) that you will have to get at under the dash with a 8” extension ½ socket and ratchet. While you are under there you will see the clutch rod is attached to the clutch pedal bar with a cotter pin and a plastic washer….just pull the pin remove the bar and the whole assembly will pop out First order of business is a snap ring that holds the whole assembly in (Pic 2 red arrow) Snap ring pliers and a small flat screwdriver make quick work of it. Ok, this part is tricky and I do not what anyone to hurt themselves or others….of the dozen or so that I have done I have only had 1 that the inner assembly slide out with a couple of taps on the work bench….try that first….if not… Use a clamp or vise and clamp a block of wood or piece of metal over the reservoir hole (plastic reservoir off)….Now place a coffee can or pail full of rags as a “Catcher’s Mitt” to get the inner assembly when it comes out…..Using a compressor with an air gun slowly start to shoot air into the opening that the line screws into. Now I can pop it out easy just by controlling the air with my blow gun….but the first time resulted in a shotgun blast that gave me a blood blister on my thumbnail that lasted 5 months and a permanent dent in the tool box!!!!! Be smart and careful!!!!! So now you will have the whole assembly apart . On the exploded diagram below look at #14…. The valve stem retainer. It is a silver cap with a hole in the lid and 2 small tabs that are bent in…you will have to carefully insert a flat screwdriver and bend these out slightly to allow you to fully disassemble this (then you bend them back in during reassembly) Here is where the repair/mod comes in….look at the exploded diagram Above…..the culprit is the small spring labeled #11….it sits in the spring retainer cup…its job is to allow #9 the stem tip seal to move back when your foot is off the clutch, this lets fluid from the reservoir into the cylinder and then when you press the clutch it “plugs” the hole and forces the flow to go out the line down to the slave and activate the clutch. Almost all I have opened the spring is toast (in one I could not even find it????)…you could replace that spring or try this. The first time I did this I used a normal ballpoint pen spring….but when walking though one of our hardware stores (Called Princess Auto…..I think it would be comparable to Tractor supply or the like) I found a bag of surplus springs….for $2… that had a larger version of the ball point spring in it so I use these. As you can see in Pic 6 below…instead of installing the spring in the cup….I install it behind the cup on #10 the valve stem (in that pic you can see a normal ball point pen spring alongside one of the others (top one)….The pen spring will work…you can even stack 2 together if you put a small washer in-between…or hunt down a larger one. Now just re-assemble in reverse order……before I install I bench test by simply adding liquid and pressing the plunger…you should now get a “Super Soaker” strength stream out of the line out hole. Re-install and good luck. :thumbsup: *****NOTES***** This MC was an aftermarket one that had been replaced at one time (I am assuming it is a “Doorman” because the exploded diagram I used I found on the web, it was labeled doorman, but I got it off a Honda web site.) There are other types out there….from the factory they could have been NABCO….and there are NABCO replacements….If yours is a Nabco you might be even luckier…..the process is the same but as seen in the pic below the NABCO uses a metal spring cup, which is not only stronger than the plastic but it will allow you to use an even bigger spring. ****If you have a newer MC with the permanent line to the slave look at the end with the connecting rod….if it has a snap ring this would be a possible solution for you.****** *****If you are experiencing leakage in the cab you will have to obtain a rebuild kit…..the procedure is the same but you would replace the 2 rubber seals on the piston with the new ones in the kit (IMHO if it is this kind of rebuild I would consider a new MC as I have yet to find a rebuild kit under $30)******* Maybe this can save you some Time and $$ (I know that after I did this for the first time I went to the back shed and dug out about 4 or 5 MC’s that I had changed over the years and went through them all for repair and or parts!) :thumbsup:

You need an off site host (I use Photobucket)

Like the boys say.....look at my Avatar...that is 31"BFG/AT with stock rear with ZJ fronts. BUT.......to answer your question....the nature of the beast of the bastard pack is the unpredictability.....there is no way you can tell to the 1/4 inch what lift you will get when you are making a pack with your existing used springs and adding modified used leafs. You will have to do the rear first and match the front to the level of rake that you want...there are a lot of posts as well as good u-tube video's on how to put together a bastard pack so you can search those. Any spring mentioned will work as long as they are the same width ( I would add YJ's to the list)

That sounds correct. Probably what's called the "Super D44", si? All the 90s Isuzu Rodeo D44s I've seen have the common 10-bolt cover. I looked at a lot of them when I was searching for an MJ D44. I think i might have 1/2 the answer...The Isuzu rear end PRIOR to using the D44 was a "Corporate 12 bolt"...not a Dana...switch to D44 later on...... and as said above that first Nissan cover looks like the bolt pattern is the same.

I think if you look he is on the right path....Rodeo's came factory with a D 44 that was a 12 bolt (I do not know if that is the diff cover in your picture) Here is one for a 2006 Grand Cherokee (second row last pic) http://www.yourcovers.com/diffcover_5062.php That looks nothing like your pick i will see if I can find an Isuzu pic

Thanks :thumbsup:

If you decide to pass this one by please PM me the owners info as I would be interested. :)

I understand that you wrote 2% ... which is why I pointed out that your difference is greater than the factory difference by a factor of ten. The way you thanked me for the math lesson, I interpreted that to mean your 2% was a math error and that you had dropped a decimal point. And I suggest you save the attitude for some other forum. I'm here to try to help people. If you don't want help, then don't ask questions. I would suggest you save your condescension for others as well.....and FYI.....I never asked a question......but as usual you felt the need to interject with your negitive comments as you had already made the decision that everyone has the right to your opinion.

Maybe you should invest in a new monitor or new spectacles.....I said 2%......never said .2%..... .....while you are at it.......... Google Facetious... :brows: ....and on behalf of a lot.....condescending..... :thumbsup:

Thanks for the math lesson I decided to start the day with a burn out so I took the 31's down a bit......jack the air it the front tires.......Holy cow all are = now...... :thumbsup:

Well if 2% is acceptable.. :dunno: ....I don't have to bother looking for a front 4.10 front diff or gear set for my 4wd swap I will run the stock 4.10's with 31's in the rear and then slap in a high pinion with 3.55's........run P195/75R/15's.....fat tires in the front and little ones in the back....old school Gasser set up but with 4x4 :thumbsup:

Take a hard look here.... my wife is driving a cherry 2000 XJ that i bought for $700 cash......Original owner had an assessment from their mechanic of a blown rear end and blown head gasket....$3800 in repairs......I drove it home......replaced the 2 rear axle seals......and the "ninja" water pump.......she drives it to this day.....one of the most powerful 4L i have ever driven :thumbsup:

:dunno: :dunno: :dunno: post 3....... :thumbsup:

The only time i would feel comfortable running a different ratio is if I have the transfer case for it (......242.....ect..) Because most of mine are 231 or equivalent I go with Front = Rear 100% I am even anal about miss-matched tires (same size but different brands...... :dunno: ...... ) and go out of my way to rotate and balance on a regular basis....even match air pressure whether on road or aired down when wheeling. Now the argument is different if we are talking strictly off road in sand mud snow....were it would be OK to have the axles working independently ....then I think i would want the front PULLING just slightly.... . :MJ 1: .