yxmj

:cheers: 200 posts :cheers:

My main concern would be the manual fuel pump mounted to the top of the motor.....would be hard to operate.....I guess I could hold the wife by the belt loops while she reached out and turned it.. :thumbsup:

As much cost and effort as it would be to put the D35 in the front 8)

You can't use the ax5...you will need a tranny for a 4x4 (AX15 recommended) to bolt to the t-case

:popcorn:

I guess it would be too obvious ti say you will have no issues if you keep the TBI....if you go with the MPI you will need to add a few components in the harness

Not only possible but highly advisable....there out there....a lot of XJ's came with them

Not to bee off topic but further too the CAD...My 93 YJ still has it so it might have gone longer in the XJ as well

If anything the rotation will make the fluid easier to drain :thumbsup:

:agree: :thumbsup: Don't just top it up....for 5 minutes work you can do a complete change with new lube......and you get a chance to give it a quick visual; inspection......maybe the noise is more than low fluid....why guess when you can know for sure. . :MJ 1: .

The only thing that I was ever worried about was that start from a dead stop. Basically the MJ has to be tuned to the point that the engine starts right away so that you are up and running quick and not running on the starter for half a block. . :MJ 1: . As far as the shifting....i can go up or down so smooth you would think it was an auto

I went through 3 months were I could not (because of work) take the time to fix a bad internal slave so i was forced to learn the fine are of shifting with no clutch, and became so proficient at it most passengers did not even notice. Until i had to shut off the engine at a stop light and do a dead stick starter launch......that sort of gave it away. . :MJ 1: . But to answer your question....i still do it.....if it is not grinding it and is a smooth engage and or dis-engage....what harm can it do?

What year is the 15? I think if I remember correct....and someone will jump in if i am wrong....the only thing that could be different it the mating of the input shaft pilot bushing....I believe it changed at one point (could be wrong). And now that I think of it check your output shaft spline count to see if it is the same. All the bolts for mounting will definitely line up

10-15 amp actually and i doubt that since 1 i don't do much night drivin and 2 it's for a HEADLIGHT And exactly where is this what looks like a giant white relay located? under the dash above the break pedal, Redwolf Look like the below? That's your high beam switch, not a relay. no not like that, i'll post a picture once photobucket on my phone works again in a few, Redwolf Just reference were you quoted me......so the 10 -12 amps are not as harmful as the 4-8 in the example.........FYI IT IS WORSE

Actually the relay would /could be mounted under the hood......it does not have to go under the dash With all do respect......i was one of the first to respond to your thread about what your gear ratio was in your rear end.....and i gave you a FOOL proof way to identify your ratio and solve your problem on the second page of that post.....but you argued and bickered with men who offered you tried and true methods to solve your problem till that thread ran over 100 posts (i would bet 2 bottles of bourbon that that diff cover has never been removed and the that you know the truth......tag means nothing....how do you know it has never been changed ?) I was also one of the original replies to this post and after seeing it was going the same way your other post put up the 100 post bet.......what is the point of putting up a post to ask for help if you are not going to listen to the help given. To put in perspective for you look back at the MJ tech Forum....someone posted a request on needing help to put his driveshaft back on after it fell off during towing. Have had the experience of this happening i replied with helpful (in my opinion advice) and diagrams.........one question.......one answer....i bet that guy is cruzin with pride in being able to do his own repair. For you bud.......my next bet would be your next post will be how to replace a fried highbeam switch........but that is just MHO . :MJ 1: .

I think you are missing the point......I do not know what you have wired into......but the idea of the relay is to isolate the fog/driving lights on to there own circuit direct from the battery. What ever you have tapped into was not designed to have another (4-8?) amp draw through it. You will probably overheat it and end up damaging the stock circuitry

Here is a relay with the instructions. they can be bought at any auto parts store (or pulled off an old vehicle)

Sorry I am late to the party

Both of my unlifted XJ's run P23/75/R15 no problem. Ran them on the MJ when first bought. ..Now the MJ has BFG AT 31x10.5x15 I have never touched the rear but when i first brought it home the back end looked to jacked up for me so I leveled it out by putting in ZJ-V8 springs I do get a bit of tire rub from time to time on those fast high G corners.....but I attribute it more to the wheel off set...the aluminum rims are fairly deep dish and give it a nice wide stance.

I will make a trip to the store to get a fresh bottle..........as soon as I am done this one

. Ummm - that's premature ebullition! He isn't done until he has bought the relay and installed it. . 14 to go, and counting... :popcorn: . Am I missing something? :hmm: I thought by the pics above it was mission accomplished? :dunno: Have I been Duped...... :fs1:

Bottle gets cracked and we drink to your success...

18 posts away from cracking the top off that bottle.... :rock on:

First examine your drive shaft (you say it fell off in motion) is it bent? Dented? Roll it on a flat surface (like one does with a pool cue) to see if it is straight (note** you might have weight on it that prevent a complete roll but try you best.....we will come back to the weights later. Now go down to you nearest auto parts store and pick up a new rear u-joint with the retaining straps and new bolts. (most good kits come withe the bolts pre-loaded with blue loctight) and if you want a new rear trans seal. http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/jeep-comanche-437-10-rear-universal-joint-strap-kit-moog/avaCmdf9qmMddKE4QQkDBO http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Transmission+Seals/C0071/C0338.oap?make=Jeep&model=Comanche&year=1988&vi=1181584 Remove the old bolts and straps from the rear yoke....remove the c- clips and the bearing cups so that you can take out the u-joint and replace it (u-joint replacement has been covered here....search it or google it most rear joints are the same.......Note**** you may need a press or at the very least a good bench vise.) http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/changing-rear-driveline-u-joints-1555801/ Remove the old seal and install the new.(same advice for that procedure this is for a t-case but the procedure is the same) Once you have the new joint installed sand the end like you say and slide it into the trans.... and bolt install your new straps in the rear yoke to hold in your new joint... fill the trans with the correct fluid to the correct level.....here is were the weights come in.....originally the drive shaft was balanced....you will have a 50/50 chance of getting it back on right.....once assembled take it for a test drive.....any noticeable vibration? If not good for you.....if so take the straps off and rotate the shaft 180 and re bolt......sill vibrating? you might have bent the shaft or knocked off a weight (now you need either a new one or a shop that can straighten and re-balance) if you do not have any vibration good for you. Last tip after the test drive .....re-tighten the bolts in the retaining straps and top up with oil again....good to go . :MJ 1: .

Wrong state ... My apologies......not really my neck of the woods . :MJ 1: .