yxmj

3.31 is old school....CJ's used to have them.....you can still get a set for 44's http://www.summitracing.com/int/search/part-type/ring-and-pinion-gears/axle-model/dana-44/ring-and-pinion-ratio/3-31-1 And I am sure someone makes a set for a D30 (if that is what you are running) IMHO.....before you walk away shoot him a low-ball offer and see what he comes back with......

This Rim and tire combo is nice But I might be bias.....

First.....The light more or less works like this.....Turn your key forward for power (not to start) and it gives 12v to one side of the bulb and the other is effectively "Grounded" to the alternator....The bulb lights up. When you start the engine and the alternator is producing power that brings the "grounded" side up to 12 volts, so effectively eliminating the voltage drop and the light goes out. The fact that your light is glowing shows that your alternator is not putting out enough voltage. Here is a good video to show how to test it without taking it out . :MJ 1: .

Eliminator :rock on:

Sorry you had a bad experience…..almost all alternators on all vehicles have replaceable brushes. Most jeeps are around the $8- $12 range http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/jeep-comanche-rx-103-alternator-brush-set/bvbF_WdgtFqlUp Here is a general guideline (this is a newer Cherokee but the basic steps are the same) This covers a complete rebuild but if you do not have bearing issues then just look at the parts related to brush removal and replacement. Once the alternator is out it is just 4 bolts to remove the back cover and 3 screw to remove the brush holder (YOU DO NOT HAVE TO DO ANY MORE BEYOND THAT IF YOU ARE JUST REPLACING THE BRUSHES) http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/rebuilding-nippon-denso-alternator-00-01-56041822aa-835511/ . :MJ 1: .

:doh: Yeah, don't do this... You might get away with it a few times, but the load dump will fry things. If the truck dies, it could be because you just hit the ECU with 100 plus volts. Much safer to have the alt bench tested. You'll need to pull it anyway to swap out the brushes... Just to be clear I did not tell him to do it multiple times.....once would give you the answer. :thumbsup:

I assure you I have more love/respect for that wheel tire combo that your dog did :P

Just a question....if you are willing to go that far.....why not just put the HO in.....with the amount of work you are willing to do in your post you could have a new rebuilt HO....(littlemore and it could be stroked) ....done deal

I like the Eagles I am running...with the deep dish I don't use Spacers

You take Interstate 29 north 1183 miles (17 hours and 53 minutes by google maps) We will grab a coffee and some grub......then drive another 40 miles west...... I know a guy who has one in a rusted out cherokee . :MJ 1: .

This would be "stock" 2.1L Renault J8S 2068 CC Intercooled Turbo Diesel 2.1L TurboDiesel Douvrin J8S 2068 cc (126 CID) I4, SOHC Diesel 85 hp (63 kW) @ 3750 rpm 132 lb·ft (179 N·m) @ 2750 rpm Renault J8S 1985–1994 (1985–1987 in North America) But maybe you want a few more ponies :???:

If it helps here is some info......I am a big fan of the "FREE" part :thumbsup: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17668&start=0

This is a Cherokee but it will help you identify the parts the boys are talking about

Yes :thumbsup: Sorry I was Vague Another fast test is start the truck and pull the positive battery cable off.....if it keeps running ALT is good.....if it dies........Break out you $8 for brushes

If you have access to a volt meter a quick test is: Start the truck.....turn on the park lights......measure the voltage across your battery terminals.....it should be between 12.7 to 14.8 volts any lower or higher and it is the alternator If that is the case i would look into just replacing the brushes first.......I just did a couple and it only cost $8 per and my time (about 1hr) :thumbsup:

This is the one I am talking about http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE20S4K7000000_nid=H6SGG1DDTVbeRJ5GMFSMV0gl I think it is the same as the one listed above. It is the product they use in pro body shops as well as by the grafic companies that install decals for a living.....when in doubt use what the pros use :thumbsup:

if you have a body shop supp;y in your area ask for a silicon wheel (explain what you want it for and they will point you in the right direction) aside from that.....check out my avitar.......nice truck.... . :MJ 1: .

You will be wanting the 4 nozzle injectors from a dodge neon google it ( if i remember right the good ones have a 73 in the part number.....google it cuz i am not positive) Here I found it ( it was 703 not 73) http://www.jeep4x4center.com/blog/?p=1051

The XJ and MJ (and the YJ, TJ, etc) don't have locking hubs. The axle shafts are always engaged to the wheels. The YJ Wranglers and the early XJs and MJs with the 231 transfer case used a split axle shaft on the right side, with a sliding coupler like a transmission synchronizer ring, to engage or disconnect the front axle in 4WD. Please answer the questions I asked in post #6. X 10 there is more happening here if your wheel is the 2 cm out as you said

Send a case and i can teach you how to rebuild them so you will never have to buy one again...it is far so i will pay the shipping :thumbsup:

not sure if the level dropped any, i really hope not cause that gl5 stuff smells bad, i'm not sure if the soft line has been replaced, i'd asumme that when the master was replaced that was replaced, but i'll check, what's the easiest way to check it? Redwolf there is not really a way to check the line while it is still hooked up, so its usually best to replace it anyway (its cheap enough), more so if you don't know when it was replaced last true, i'll see if i can see if it's been changed before i bought the MJ yup, that's exactly what happens for me, unless it's 75 degrees or hotter not sure if the level dropped any, i really hope not cause that gl5 stuff smells bad, i'm not sure if the soft line has been replaced, i'd asumme that when the master was replaced that was replaced, but i'll check, what's the easiest way to check it? Redwolf Check the fluid and top it up if low.....that is step 1 in the master cylinder or the fill plug on the tranny? Redwolf Master Cylinder .....having to double pump the clutch is a sign that leads me to believe your fluid is low

not sure if the level dropped any, i really hope not cause that gl5 stuff smells bad, i'm not sure if the soft line has been replaced, i'd asumme that when the master was replaced that was replaced, but i'll check, what's the easiest way to check it? Redwolf Check the fluid and top it up if low.....that is step 1

Might be a stupid question but did you check the fluid level.....and top it up if low. A visual check might help as well most slaves will leak fluid noticeably when they go.

For what it is worth.....I have 7 jeeps in my drive way .....have revived and rebuilt more than most of you ever will....I vote red head,,,,and change the fluid.....if the fluid got better with use and age.....like the red head......... it would be worth more and keep you happy longer.....not.....change the fluid

Sure why not easy to do and will give you piece of mind. Just count the number of bolts that hold the pan on before you go to the parts store. (the fellow behind the counter will ask if it is 17 or 19 i don't remember what the aw4 is) pick up a new filter and gasket kit and new fluid. Saftly drop the panand dispose of the old fluid .....replace the filter and clean and reinstall the pan :thumbsup: