yxmj

That is exactly how it is done....mine lived through the 3 months and still has the same starter....still going strong

Good Stuff Well bolt those puppies on and post a picture of the finished product. :thumbsup:

2.5 all day long......................Find me a 2.8 with 300,000+ miles that has not been rebuilt

As long as you had access to the computor and wiring harness as well as the drive shafts and linkage from the vehical it is coming out of...it is not impossible

My friend I am in Winnipeg Manitoba Canada 1774 Miles from your home. . :MJ 1: . You are just a few inches from your keyboard......type in Google...... http://www.legis.state.wv.us/wvcode/code.cfm?chap=17c&art=15 The info you need is here §17C-15-17. Spot lamps and other auxiliary lamps.

I forgot that you're in Virginia. Do you remember when the Liberty first came out to replace the Cherokee? One of the factory options on the Libby was a set of four off-road lights mounted on the roof. Guess which state did NOT allow that option to be sold within its borders. If you guessed "Virginia," you win the game. Virginia is very strict on lights. But, even if they weren't, I don't know about Pete but I'm not going to go on a public forum and recommend to people that they knowingly break the law. The law is the law. You're going to be making your own wiring harness from scratch. It's not much more work to do it right than to do it wrong, so why not do it right? And then there's the issue of the right kind of lights. Driving lights DON'T WORK as fog lights. If you install driving lights when you want fog lights, you are WASTING TIME AND MONEY AND EFFORT. Just do it right, for Gawd's sake. Get the right lights for the job, and wire them in according to the law. Why are you now so interested in doing it completely wrong, when you started off asking us how to do it right? eagle, i'm not startin an arguement so don't take it as that but look at a set of fog lights and drivin lights by the same maker closely, the only real difference is the lense, just sayin, also acordin to a state inspector in virginia beach, he said drivin lights HAVE to go off when the hi beams are turned on, ya can only have 4 lights on with the exception of marker lights, so if ya have hi and low beams on at the same time, the drivin/fog lights have to turn off, Redwolf When you have the high and low beams on at the same time................worlds collide and you enter the 3D dimension,,, ,(FYI this can't happen....the manufacturer made it so that it is either high...or low....not both) ,My friend 3 bits of advice 1) Download Google Chrome just for the spell check 2) Re-read your posts......before you click on post......just to be sure 3) Check your facts,,,,3 times before questioning anything.......you seem to be VERY misinformed. . :MJ 1: .

:yes: I did it for 3 months.....It is only those dead stick starts from the red lights that were hard....... :rock on:

FYI as posted above the same year YJ rail will work.

My 2 cents......I would bet a bottle of Bourbon that this thread goes 100 + posts before and lights get purchased and mounted correctly. :rotf:

And if I can add if you are getting a bell housing try to get one that accommodates an external slave.....Just makes future (hopefully not needed) maintenance easier But first check that spline count......otherwise all this is moot

If the front shaft of the trans is different that is major....if just the rear is different you would just need the top yoke of the yj rear shaft

Then the only other thing would be the spline count on the input shaft to the trans the output of the t-case....the 95 might have 2 more spline....I could be wrong just count the spline to be sure

Are the MJ and YJ both 4L?

I don't know if this has been posted before but as I am a big fan of the "Jeep" in-lines What is the highest mileage you have, or can talk about, on a I6 or I4 Did you put them on yourself? One of the reasons I am asking is I was having a chuckle with my Daughter...I just got her first jeep for her... a clean 1999 XJ and she was comparing it to my 1987 MJ....I laughed and told her it was a bit of a backwards comparison as hers has 319,000 Kms (about 199,000 miles) and my 87 has 88,000 kms (about 55,000 original miles)....sort of backward don't you think Anyway i will start the bidding at 199,000 NEXT :wavey:

I do much the same thing....I have parted out a few jeeps over the years and have boxes of relays and sections of wiring harnesses....so up till now (Knock wood) I have never come across a missing or broken connector that i had to go to the parts store to replace....a bit of rummaging in the bin and BINGO

Trace the line back from the lights......were does it go?

One should come with your light kit.....you would have to supply the other

:clapping: Just as the man has drawn :rock on: But I think it might be above and beyond the OP's level

Yes there is

If you take the trans t-case and front axle off the same vehicle (XJ?) then take the front drive shaft and linkage as well.... all will bolt up. You will have to have a rear drive shaft shortened and re-balanced. My tip would be leave the rear drive shaft for the very end....not only will it be easier to measure to get it right.....but if everything else is installed you can put it in 4x4 and drive around in front wheel drive ( you might have to put a plastic cap on the t-case output to keep fluid from running out.

X2 :agree:

Just a guess but you will have too much belt.... :???:

Then you would be better off finding something closer in years (87-90 ?) And just to clear up a point made above....you can't modify a 2 wheel drive trans to bolt up to a t-case....you will need a 4wd one

My info has the 87 @ 170 and the 2000/2001 @ 195 My right foot and backside can tell you that there is a very noticeable difference going from my 88 2 door Laredo 4l XJ to my (wife's) 2000......You can even notice the difference from my 1998 4l XJ to the 2000. The only enjoyment I ever get out of driving the wife's XJ ( because it is Sienna pearl in color and has flowers hanging from the rear view mirror.....and she won't let me lift it) is the look on the faces of the tuners and 5 liter mustangs ....when I leave them at the stop light. Just for some good reading look at the car and driver article (****** I will preface this to all the Keyboard warriors.....I did not write it ....just posted it****) Makes me want to run from the cops.. . :MJ 1: . When the 4.0 burst onto the scene, it had a full 180 horsepower in the Wrangler (a German publication listed it as 172 horsepower, and, in the Cherokee, it started out with 170 hp). One of its advantages was being designed for fuel injection: it had no mechanical fuel pump and was intended from the start to be injected, developed with help from Renault’s fuel injection techs (it used the Renault-Bendix, or Renix, system from 1987 to 1990) In 1990, when the 4.0 still had 177 hp, the GM 4.3L V6 only made 160 hp, the Ford 4.9L I6 (used in the F150 and Econoline) only made 145 hp, the Ford 4.0 V6 made 155 hp, the Chrysler 5.2L made 170 hp, the Jeep/AMC 2bbl 360 V8 made 144 hp, and the Nissan 3.0 V6 (used in the Pathfinder) made 153 hp. Jeep upped the ante in 1991, when the Cherokee's version made 190 hp. In 1987 I wondered why they didn't drop the 4.0 I6 into the YJ, which was still using the 112-117 hp 258 (4.2 liter) six; or the Eagle, Concord and Grand Wagoneer, which came with the four-barrel 360 V8, making just 144 hp. The 4.0 made more power than the Ford 302 V8, Chevy 305, Chrysler 318, and AMC 360, as well as any of the six cylinder engines the Japanese were putting in their trucks, and it had comparable or better fuel economy. An AMC Concord with the 177 hp 4.0 I6 might have been a better police pursuit vehicle than the Dodge Diplomats (140-150HP), Chevy Caprices (160-170HP) and Ford Crown Victorias (160-165HP). Compared with other contemporary engines, the 4.0 was strong up until the end.

If you are going to do it go all in and change everything...Motor tranny t-case Computer harness...might be less hassle in the end I have both Trucks you do (as well as some more) The motor in that 2000 is the best 4 liter made...off the shelf 25 hp more that your 87 (with potential for more)