Oizarod115

same here, we went and camped and hiked and stayed with relatives for 2 weeks, BEAUTIFUL. bald eagles everywhere and moose. and bear.

an idle air even completely dead shouldn't give you red-line, just about 3k... i wouldn't think thats the problem

I'm down!

lookin good man!

what he said

not trying to be a richard-cranium but... they should be fairly straightforward :cheers:

arguably they are VERY comparable. i will give facts no opinions 8.8 has a larger ring gear and stronger shafts in explorer applications. (don't get the ranger one.) larger tube diameter too IIRC. but is also a c-clip axle. can be found in a newer explorer with disk brakes. 44 is a 8.5" ring gear, with 30 spline axles and possible bolt-in. offered in a 87-88 cherokee's are the most common place i've seen them but no cheap disk brake kits. both good for probly 37" max and not TOO wild with it. 35's you can abuse them. larger than that get somethin bigger. automatic transmissions also seem to lessen the abuse on the axles so you can often get away with running larger tires on axles most people whine about. ;) you'll find most people who run 33's-35s on D35 axles and don't break them are also running autos.

haha, yeah... i have a 19" on my drivers side cause thats what we had in-stock. 18" on the pass. side.

i have a 97 engine/head with renix manifolds on it and a knock sensor and all that jazz... you'll have to change the wiring on the temperature sender and adapt it into the thermostat housing if you wanted to have a gauge or run an aftermarket one. but yes pretty much any 4.0L will bolt right in your engine's place just swapping over accessories. except the 01+motors that will have dist.less ignition.

my brother has a good one... pulled his girlfriend up a hill in the 90 cherokee on 35s, put it in park, got out, and it slipped out and flipped down the hill.. whoopsa! oh yeah, check out the bottom corner of the pictures, this happened on none other than APRIL FOOLS DAY!

not time yet down here?

in the front driveshaft?

could it be a bad CV joint in the driveshaft? that's alot more common than a popping noise in the t-case would be

man... the list of stuff stolen from my truck one time goes like this... -1/2 of a subway sandwich. -the remaining condoms in the box -1/2 pack of cigarettes -mp3 player another break-in that annoyed the PISS out of me was when they stole my 40$ radioshack cb... SERIOUSLY? how much can it pawn for? it was cheap NEW.. and they CUT all wires to the back... they UNPLUG a$$hole. 30 dollars in wire and 40$ in radio. oh and each occasion there was a cd player, amp, 2 6x9s, sub, the sandwich one there was a 110$ cobra cb... and all that stuff was left alone?

checkin out the 3" leafs on motionoffroad... when it says 960lb capacity is that per side for a total of 1920 or is that TOTAL for a total of 960?

also with the hub kit you can buy fail-safe's that are easy to replace and its basically a weak-part installed in the hub so that instead of busting the gears or axles you pop the piece in the hub for like 20 bucks a set of 2 and it takes 20minutes to change instead of being completely BROKE.

try a super30 kit. this is from the rusty's website (which don't let anyone hear me condone them, but that's where my brothers kit come from and it's fine.) "Upgrade your stock 27 spline to 30 spline. Includes ARB air locker, Left & Right axle shafts with U-joints installed TIMKEN bearings, seals & shims, 35% Stronger!" bit pricey at 1365$ but it upgrades the spline count to 30 and theyre cromolly shafts from alloy usa iirc. also check out the warn hub kit: http://www.quadratec.com/products/16132_99_07.htm that ups the size of your wheel bearings making them take the abuse of a larger tire better (d30 hubs aren't the best for 35s) and gives you the choice of unlocking the hubs in case of failure check out any offroad website for steering solutions and trackbars. trusses? check out jeepspeed stuff probably maybe try teraflex

"them politicians treat me like a mushroom, cause they feed me bull and keep me in the blind" -travis tritt

i got 6 injectors from five-o motorsports online, i think it was in the neighborhood of 200 bucks maybe 225? theyre a 19lb/hr bosch piece from some year 5.0l mustang. i had to crap on me at the same time and my brother had 1 or 2 leak on his as well... i would wait til they actually leak. its not a major repair... maybe about an hour with a couple snacks in there.

if the intake comes with a power steering pump and brackets then yes... if not then no.

that one is easy enough to check... but if its an intermittent problem you'll only see a bad reading when its checkin out. but you should be able to hook up a voltmeter and read .8-5.0v idle-WOT respectively and it should be a smooooth curve the whole way not jumpy or jerky

lol i didn't think it worked i xed out cause the page wouldn't load. just hit the img button, paste the url for the picture and hit the IMG button again

:cheers: i'll kick a few to that. maybe next go-round will be better.

eh, you get used to it after a while and ride about 10 over on most roads, some spots 15... those are the unofficial speed limits. anything over 14+ is fair game for a cop to give you a ticket though. 10-12 you're good. and hell, i get optimal gas mileage at 50-55 right? why drive 40? :cheers: :popcorn: but i do love the guys that ride your bumper... two words... down shift. ;) i need a new rear bumper. 5th-2nd at 40 will realllllly slow ya down with no warning. :nuts: