dasbulliwagen

I think the CV style shafts from a ZJ Grand Cherokee are supposed to work. You might need to knock off the tone ring for the ABS though. Hopefully someone else will chime in on this. Most people don't do this swap though because the CV is a weaker setup the the universals. Good luck!

I'm assuming you have an aftermarket high power head unit.... maybe on hard hits its pulling voltage too low to keep the unit powered up. From what I remember, some people wire large capacitors inline, especially to amps for when something like your problem happens. Voltage goes low, and the capacitor kicks in and makes it up. Might be something for you to research. Good luck.

If youre parting it out, there are several people on here that would like to have that visor!

I too have had a van roll down a hill! It was my work van at the time. I was leaving the jobsite, and noticed I left the back doors open, it was on a slight incline going backwards down the hill, and I didnt want anything to fall out. So I stopped the van, jumped out, got almost all the way around to the back doors, when it starts rolling again, park pawl clicking the whole way. It picked up steam real fast... too fast for me to be able to jump back in it safely. It rolled all the way down this dirt jobsite driveway, across the road, through the ditch and stopped when it hit a tree in the woods there. The boss wouldnt talk to me till the next day after he cooled down.... good I guess. I pulled it into drive after the accident, and drove it right out back onto the road.... shtuff flying everywhere! Drove it back to the shop after slamming the rear doors shut and went home to hide. But thing is, there are houses in that wooded area now. I can just imagine what would have happened it it was like that at the time it happened. don't even want to think about it! Ford dealer looked at it and couldnt find anything wrong as to why it would have started rolling in park.

Yup Junkyard option.... actually a pristine 1986 Wagoneer Cash for Clunker trade in.... got the grille, the front fenders, the front doors, front bumper, radio, clock, cig lighter, front skid plate, and t-case skid plate from it.... all but the skid plates are curently installed on th MJ. Same color too!

I was sitting on the couch last night about 8:30 watching Good Eats, when all of a sudden a huge BANG happens on the livingroom wall behind me. I could see out the window through the curtain just enough to see my MJ resting against thee side of the house! I guess when I got home 3 hours earlier, that I had left it out of gear for a minute to sit there and enjoy the AC, and forgot to put it back in gear when I was done. Its a pretty flat driveway so I don't always set the parking brake either. It must have just enough grade to it though eveidently to let it roll toward the house through the unpaved section against the house. The pics, as embarassing as they are, are below. The MJ is miraculously unharmed, but the two little divots in the side of the house will need to be taken care of soon! If it would have had the original bumper on it, there might not have been any mark on either the truck or the house. Oh well... thats the price I pay for chrome!

Or vice versa! :fool:

Perches are different. The Mj perches sit farther outboard than the XJ, they would need to be cut off and welded in the correct position.

Poly will also transfer more noise into the body... ran them on most of my VW's, thats probably why I have tinitus and am half deaf! Or it could have been the wide open stinger exhausts I had! :nuts:

Is your buggy a Meyers Manx, or is it one of the multitude of copys.... not that theres anything wrong with that.... but all of us VW people know that the Meyers was the original, and thus more desireable. Just wondering! Someday when I get a garage built, I REALLY REALLY REALLY want to build a rail buggy. I had a collection of parts going to build one, but recently took them all to a VW swap and sold everything... I just don't thave the room to keep it all yet. Especially now that I'm collecting Jeep parts! Youve got a great start there... keep it going!

Ive done it in Michigan too, as long as the prev owner didnt date it, its fine, I'm holding onto one in North Carolina now too for my 86 MJ....no date on it, and working at a dealer I can get it notorized without the prev owner being here.... what the state don't know don't hurt them!

This isnt the first time Mel has shown his true crazy side, and as much of a gold digger as she may be, it doesnt take away from the fact that he is saying all this stuff showing his true character. I have truely lost all respect for the man. He now rates right up there in crazy with Tom Cruise. Frickin Nutjobs who think that since they are rich and have people willing to put them on the air, that we want to know what they think. The liberal media is to blame for their swollen heads and egos. I myself just wish they would shut up and go away.

An aftermarket rim can be had in any backspacing you want. Its fairly common to see 4", and then too go with a wider wheel like maybe a 15x8, or a 15x10 and it will start to add up. Youll want to find a lower backspacing number than the stock 5 1/4". Now, as far as telling you what other stock wheels would have what you want, theres no way. I think aftermarket is your only option here.

A 4.0 swap would be the most straightforward, but if I remember correctly, your MJ is LHD, and any donors you get would be RHD. That would make the swap pretty much impossible ( I think ) unless you want to switch your MJ to RHD as well, which would mean entire dash assy swap and firewall modifications (I think), and steering box and linkage and knuckle swap. Can you get donors from mainland Europe where you could find a LHD or is something like that not very easy to bring over to the Isles? A Chevy type swap might be easier if you can't find a LHD donor. But then again you need to look at legality of such a swap in your area too. I'm not sure what laws would govern that over in Britan. Could be emissions issues, or safety issues, or.... ???? Finding some locals who are into XJ's might be a wealth of information for you as to what you can and can't do to modify your truck legally. I wish you luck, and let us know what you end up doing.

http://greensboro.craigslist.org/cto/1839412802.html 1989 JEEP COMANCHE 2WD - $1550 (N. HIGH POINT) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 2010-07-12, 5:12PM EDT Reply to: sale-vqq9w-1839412802@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?] -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- THIS IS A COLLECTOR TRUCK!!! It is VERY RARE to see a Comanche Truck, especially one that you can DRIVE!!!! This Truck has a 4.0 Liter Inline 6 cylinder engine (that runs FINE) and at 202,000 miles is actually VERY LOW MILEAGE for this engine!!!! AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (WITH 4 FORWARD GEARS) TRANNY IS FINE. Cruise Control that works!!! PIONEER AM/FM/CASSETTE !!! NICE MATCHING JEEP WHEELS AND NEW TIRES!!!! This would make a GREAT 1ST TRUCK OR A DAILY DRIVER OR A REALLY NICE RESTORATION PROJECT!!!! The VALUE of this TRUCK will do nothing but GO UP!!! CALL TERRY @ 336-841-1320

NICE!!!! :thumbsup:

I can only assume that you have a chance at a set of JK rims and you want to know if theyll fit your Dak, right? If I have a chance today, Ill see if I can get a measurement for you.... that is if we have one come in that needs a wheel pulled off of.

Yeah maybe thats true, but a man can dream, can't he? :yes:

Ive used duct tape and or clear plastic packing tape to repair these before... seems to work OK, but it wouldnt be hard to make new ones and use some spray adhesive to attach them. Good luck.

Yes the front fenders are different at the front edge... they are rounded to match the new style header, the old ones are angular. I have seen someone add some fiberglass to the corners of the header and then sand it to match the old style fenders. May be a good trick if you can't get new fenders.

For $16000 youd think they could have put the JEEP lettering back on the tailgate after the fresh paint job. No bodywork my azz.

You need to go back and pull the fuel pump and sender to have a spare to build. :thumbsup:

Those look a lot better than I thought they would, but then again, they are 17's. If you put true old school slots on there in a 14 or 15 inch, I'm not sure it would have the same result.

They are not chromed, but they are stainless steel. They are available polished as well depending on the trim level of the vehicle. I pulled a set of polished ones of a CFC wagoneer and plan to install them soon, should be a cheap pull at a PNP junkyard if you have any near you.

The door shells SHOULD be the same between power and non power versions... you SHOULD be able to just swap everything from your old doors to the new doors.