dasbulliwagen

I agree, if your getting DW after the lift and your Caster is only 5 degrees. Could defineately be a large contributing factor. Couple other comments confuse me. Nothing you could do to the shackles will have anything to do with the front end of your truck. Camber is not adjustable. Unless you want to try those fancy balljoints. As for shims, you can make them if you cannot find them to purchace. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm Good luck, CW If I put bigger shackles on the rear, it raises the rear end in relation to the front, thus affecting caster angle negatively. Thanks for the shim link!

The final scene from the original Gone in 60 seconds is great, but I also LOVE the final chase scene form The Blues Brothers! I just love how many cop cars they wrecked for that! We've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, its dark, and we're wearing sunglasses..... HIT IT!

That is the famous, or should I say IMFAMOUS Bendix ABS installed in early 90's Jeeps and Chryslers. It was a horrible system that was prone to failure.... so much so that Chrysler implemented a lifetime warranty recall of the systems. The round bulb is an accumulator that stores pressure built up by an electric pump just in case you loose power to the system. But most of the time the pump goes bad and you don't get pressure at all, or when the pump goes bad, it burns up the almost innaccessible fuse link, and any other fuse link near it, or the seals go bad, and the pump runs constantly causing it to burn up.... you see where I'm going. About all that may be good of this system is the front axle shafts are supposed to be the ones with the bigger U-joints.

Probably 5 minutes or more, at least. The coolant has to get up past 195F to open the thermostat. A better indicator to know if you have air or not is the coolant bypass hoses that go to the intake manifold fittings and the heater core. If those are getting warm quickly, and youre getting heat inside quickly, then you probably don't have an air bubble problem. If the upper rad hose doesnt ever want to get hot, Id look at the thermostat maybe being stuck closed. Good luck, let us know what you find.

Went into work this morning to install my new tie rod ends. Got my old ones out no problem, went and assembled the new ones and tried to install the right side rod, and it wouldnt bend up far enough to attach to the pitman arm. Turns out the joint end wasnt machined correctly to allow the ball to have enough articulation in that direction. So I assembled it all with the old rod, and new ends at the other three locations, and put it on the alignment rack. I eyeballed it pretty darn good while assembling, as the cross rod to the left side took little to no adjustment to get the two sides parallel. The toes is almost perfect, the camber is a little negative on both sides but not enough to worry too much about, and the caster is just under 5 degrees. Less than I would like it to be, and it will probably be worse once I put on my new shackles on the rear. I need to find some caster shims and get another right side rod end, and new rear shackles and Ill align it again. Finished up and drove it, the steering wheel isnt perfectly straight but it rides much smoother than before. It will be much better I think once I get the caster where it should be. The machine says it should be 7-8 degrees. I'm not sure yet if any of this has taken care of any DW since putting in the dana 30 front axle, but I guess Ill find out soon enough.

Have you priced any of this stuff yet? Once you get the molds made, it would all be downhill from there. Make left and right insides, and left and right outsides, drill holes where needed, and glue the halves together. I know it sounds easy, but it would be a ton of work. Might be worth it if you could sell them for anything close to what good used ones are going for. Bad thing is a good set would have to be sacrificed to be split for the molds.

SHWEET! Good luck!

I agree its a horrible picture, and it also looks to be pretty basic. Not much styling going on there. Looks mostly like a rectangular steel tube, with mounts welded on, and recovery points added. Might be a good price, but not pretty enough for my taste.

Suprising? YES! Might be better if you could destroke a 3.1 or a 3.4 due to the 2.8's obvious design flaws in the oiling system and the external balance. Maybe a 2.8 crank in one of the other motors.... might even get you closer to 3.0 that way too. Youd have to do some research though. Good luck!

Burned valve, burned piston, head gasket leak, busted rings, low compression....... Lets hope its not any of these.

I'm not in any kind of racing or class, just like to see what I can do with a 2.5. And by all means please share sneaky plans, PM to me if you don't want them out. Your plans wouldnt be the MOPAR midget racing 4cyl block would it.... that would be cool too. If youre not familiar, I THINK its basically an aluminum 5.2 or a 5.7 block with 4 cylinders cut off, and a choice of heads. Theres a turbo version of this in MOPAR magazine thats putting out 1200HP and 760lb-ft of torque in a streamlined speed record car.

Have you done anything at all performance wise to the 2.5? Just curious as I'm planning in my head a performance 2.5 build. Id like to know what they did to the 2.5 SCCA Comanches too to make them go fast. I wonder if I could take a Clifford performance 6 cyl sidedraft intake and cut it down for a 4 cyl and then either add port fuel inj and sidedraft throttle bodies, or a couple of sidedraft carbs. Clifford does make a 4bbl intake for the 2.5 that you can add a 390 cfm carb to or a custom TBI setup. Several companies make headers, but Ive only found one place that lists a performance cam, and according to their website, they are closed till next year or something. I'm not sure what youre allowed to do within the rules of your competition, but I'm curious to find out. Good luck with the Championship... we're pullin for ya.

WOW!! Thats an obscure reference! Pulled that one out of the woodwork didnt ya. Good movie though!

As a Chrysler tech, I know of NO reprograms available to do what youre looking for. Aftermarket might be a different story, but I have no idea. Usually octane is set going by compression ratio, and timing, but mostly compression ratio. I don't think theres much you can do. Sorry.

I thought this was something serious. What was I thinkin? :yes:

You can't go wrong with sylvania silverstars either. Good stuff.

Ive always wondered about mounting one of those extruded aluminum tube type coolers inside of another tube, like a galvanized pipe, and then mounting a bilge type fan on one end. This way you could mount it like up under the bed high up, the cooler would be protected, and it would have airflow. The bilge fan is waterproof, so no worries about getting it wet. You could mount a temp sensor and temp switch inline to have the fan go on and off when needed. If youre not sure what type cooler I'm talking about just let me know and Ill find a pic or link. They usually sell them in street rod magazines. Pretty cool stuff!

Badass. I actually really like it. Simple and classy, very cool!

We see very few issues with these at the dealership. So far they are being a pretty good engine. We do see the occasional jumped rocker arm, but it is fairly rare when you consider how many of them are out there right now. I wouldnt hesitate getting one if thats what you want.... OH and they sound awesome with a flowmaster!

Just finished wiring in my power windows, power locks, and power antenna.... THEY ALL WORK! :banana: :banana: :banana:

Southern Michigan got hit too. My sister in Battle Creek had either a tornado or straight line winds tear up her neighbor horribly just one street over from her house, roofs blown off, huge trees down, stuff strewn everywhere. I didnt hear about any deaths, but still scary.

I'm sorry, I really don't feel sorry for you(other than the loosing your job part). Youre too young for a brand new car anyways. Loose the Pontiac to your dad, and find yourself a beater.... no full coverage insurance, no payments, park it anywhere. Beaters are charachter builders. And great learning devices. Youll be suprised what you can make work when you have to and have little to no cash. And no car payment will leave you that much farther ahead on money when you do get another job.

Ordered lifetime warranty Autozone Duralast tie rod ends and drag link today to try to get rid of my death wobble. I will install them saturday and then give it an alignment.... I hope this works. If not, next will be ball joints and control arm bushings.

Yeah I realize, just saying that some of those guys would undercut their mother if it meant making a buck. Just be careful, and good luck! Kinda miss having you around... good to see ya back.

I have Ceramic material now a days , mostly in rings and watches now but in the last couple of years more and more product is becoming available . High grade ceramics are almost as hard as tungsten steel , lighter than titanium and holds 0 conductivity . Pretty much an old NASA material that they found a market niche for . The re-atomization of this material is actually higher than a Diamond . Sorry , little bit too much techy there . Ceramic would be cool, but I love my aerospace grade Titanium wedding band. CAN YOU SAY 180,000 PSI TENSILE STRENGTH BROTHER!!!! (in my best wrestler voice)