dasbulliwagen

http://goo.gl/maps/l5iL Thats what I get for not looking at the avatar close enough!

Ive never ordered from them, but several guys here have used rockauto.com with good results. Sounds like a very similar website.... a selection of brand names and great prices. And what island are you on? I have a good friend of mine who recently built a house on Oahu as a contractor... he spent about 2 years there building that place before coming back home to north Carolina. I would love to visit someday. Any pics of your truck?

In personal experience, even with very small lift, some adjustable lowers at the very least would be wonderful. I went from 2wd 4cyl to 4x4 4 cylinder with springs form a 2.8 and an extra isolator for about 1 1/2-2" of lift. When I did my caster alignment, I had a VERY hard time getting enough adjustment at the frame side caster adjustment on the stock arms to give me correct caster. I still didnt get it where I wanted it to be, but since I was out of adjustment room, I had no choice. If I go any higher later, adjustable arms and control arm drop brackets will definitely be on my shopping list.

Like the wheels. If you repainted your flares, straightened your rear bumper, and finish pulling off the lower side moldings, and its adhesive, that would be a sharp truck. It really don't take much. Keep up the good work.

Not being from your area, I can't recomend anyone, but if it were me, Id start going around to independant shops, and just talking to the shop owner/manager to see what they say of if they arent willing to do the work to reccomend someone themselves for you to go to. If someone does take on the job, I'm sure it will be a clock time type deal. Theres no way to accurately price the job, so it would be the mechanic doing the work, and you pay him for however long it takes him to do it. That is where youd like to find someone as good as possible and as fast as possible so you arent paying out the arse for some guy to play on the internet and flirt with the receptionist in between every 5 minutes of working on your truck. Good luck and let us know what you figure out.

You should have looked at the rear end in that Challenger, some of those old MOPARS had Dana 60 rear ends with the 5x4 1/2 bolt pattern... nice upgrade for an MJ!

Ive done this to my 87 with an 86 donor, They say there is a cross body harness for the door wiring, but Ive never seen one. I made my own harness to run across using a FSM wiring diagram as a base to build the harness. I also cut the body side connectors out of my donor so I had all the OEM connectors for the windows, locks, and mirrors. There are spots in the fuse box where you can just plug in a spade terminal for power. Its likely the fuse for them is already in there not doing anything. Good luck.

My 86 Mj had stock 4:10's. They came with the 5 speed trans in the v6 and 4 cyl models, the auto could have come with 3:73 in a v6, or 4:56 with a 4 cyl. The auto ones would need to be verified though.

Mines the opposite, it chatter a little when cold, till it has a little heat in it then its fine for the rest of the day.

:cheers:

The wife saw it today and just had to have it. She told me to go by and look it over, and if everything looked OK, to buy it... so I did. And the MJ hauled it home! I think my daughter will like riding around in it too!

OK, here's my pics I promised. Be aware, these are crappy cell phone pics of photographs, so the quality isnt there! The Bus is a 1959 Microbus panel van thats been lowered with a type 1 IRS rear conversion kit, and dropped front spindles. It actually rode pretty good for being lowered that much. It has EMPI 5 spoke wheels, and a CBPerformance engine with 2 48mm throttle bodies on each side, 044 cylinder heads that have been ported and polished, high ratio rockers, mild cam, serpentine pulley system, and High energy ignition. I think I had about $4500 invested in just the motor and trans alone at that point. The last picture is of the 1973 Karmann Ghia convertable I also had.

LOL. Too much of an altered state of consciousness to do it today? If only that were the case, then Id have an excuse. I think my pics are all in my toolbox at work. But Ill look here tonight anyways, just for you! :yes:

I'm gonna have to scan in pics of my old microbus! Maybe tommorow. :chillin:

Being a unibody vehicle, there is very little that will unbolt, except the outer fenders, hood, and grille shell. The rest is welded as part of the vehicles structure. its not like the old cars where you could unbolt a whole front clip and swap an different one on. If theres frame damage, it will need to be pulled out and either straightened or replaced and re welded.

If you were looking at the WJ wheels to be able to have bigger wheels, 16 or 17 inch, yeah, like said, they won't fit, but if you find a set of steel wheels on a Chrysler 300, Dodge Charger, or Dodge Magnum, from 2005 on up, they are a direct bolt on, have the same backspacing as original, and the correct center hub... fit perfectly. Most of them are 17inch bullet hole steel wheels, but the ones on the police cars were 18 inch and had a 5 star pattern in steel that looks pretty good. A set of those would get you bigger wheels if you wanted them.

From all the builds Ive seen on here where people are fixing the floor, they are all the same. The top cover of the frame, IS the floorpan. Cut out your new section, draw some lines on it from underneath outlining the frame rails, then drill a bunch of holes for spot welds to weld the new floor metal to the top edge of the frame rails. It will be perfectly safe to drive for a long time to come. If you still are anxious about it, buy a frame rail stiffener kit from any number of retailers for XJ off road parts and reinforce the outsides of the frame as well. That way you save the truck, and its stronger to boot!

It has an open recall, Recall 561- Oxygen sensor. I couldnt get the options list to see what axle it has, it is too old a Jeep for Chryslers computers. It was originally sold in Bristol, TN, and shows the current owner living in the town its being sold from.

And here's the info on the t-bird coils.. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68842

here's a list put together on naxja http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66012

The measurement you need to be worried about with more rake than you like is CASTER, not camber. Your caster should be be positive... maening with the steering knuckle angled back slightly. Factory measurement is I think around 7 or so, But with lifted vehicles it can't be that much because you need to find a happy medium between caster angle and pinion angle. So I would say you should at least try to get it to 5 degrees positive. You might need front control arm drop brackets or adjustable control arms to get this number though after a lift. Having corrrect caster will make the possibility of DW much lower, also like mvusse said, make sure your toe is correct as well. You might want to spend a few bucks and have this part done professionally. And since most shops toe and go, make sure to emphasize to them that you need to know that your caster is being adjusted as well, and if it doesnthave enough adjustment to have them tell you so you can make the appropriate modifications to get it where it needs to be.

XJ up country, or V8 ZJ sway bar, bar mounts, and sway bar links. 1989-97 Ford thunderbird V6 front coils and upper strut mounts... good for 3 1/2"-4" lift in front with similar spring rate 97 up XJ door weatherstripping late 80's Camaro rear upper spring isolators... good as a budjet boost 2"- 2 1/2" late style front axle shafts with the bigger U-joints Nice GM steering wheels from like columned vehicles to replace/upgrade yours Lighted rearview mirror

If you go through Strasburg, OH on I-77, you're free to spend the night at my place if you don't want to drive up in one day. If not, we could meet up somewhere and convoy partway. I thought about you on this one. We still need to meet sometime when I'm in the neighborhood again. Ill ikeep you in mind when and if the time comes. Thanks!

here's my 87 with the waggy treatment. I did the front clip, the right front fender, and both front doors, got all the power options transfered and working too, power antenna, locks, windows and mirrors. I have since removed all the spoortruck decals and the woodgrain. here's the CFC donor I got all the parts from. It was an 86 model, and in absolutely perfect condition...too bad. here's the only pic I have lately of it with the stickers off. My plan is to make it a Comanche Limited...eventually, as the waggy I got the parts from was a limited. Good luck with your project!

I say either way the cops will be called. More than likely by Pete.. It won't be the cops, it will be code enforcement!