dasbulliwagen

And nobody wears seatbelts either!

Jeep YJ assys are very similar, and I think they could be made to work. I havent tried it but I have one set aside for if I ever have a problem with the one in my MJ. They are still available from the dealership as there was a recall on them.

When I swapped my header panel from an 86, I cut the fender studs off and drilled holes in the right spot for the header panel bolts to make it all bolt up properly.

Do you have a youtube vid of the exhaust and its sound? I am curious about the sound of this setup.I don't have a vid, but I have a Flowmaster 50 on mine with gutted cat and stock 2 1/4" tail. It has a nice growl under load but mostly quiet at idle. I love it!

The market will be better if you offer it complete with wiring harness and PCM for people who may want to upgrade to the port injected version, or offer the motor seperately and the intake and harness and pcm seperately. The port injected models up the horsepower a little over the TBI version. I think you would need the dash harness with this as well to make it complete.

I got a free XJ once, but its missing parts and has a frozen 2.8 in it! Nice score though. Keep us updated with progress!

Save your pennies. Eventualy you WILL be replacing that CVT. As a dealer tech I hate those things. They are inefficient and have little long term reliability. They are Nissan design, and Nissan has the same problems with them, Chyrsler stopped using them this year for all those reasons. They are now using a Hyundai 6 speed auto in its place that is getting good reviews from Chryslers tech people and trainers.

I did this on my 87 2.5. Adding all the parts isnt bad. The wiring will be a ittle more difficut. In mine, al the connectors under the dash were there and already had the matching wires. Under the hood, the AC clutch wire was there, and the AC pressure switch connector was there, but the wires for the relays and controls werent and I had to make them. I did find a connector on the top of the left fenderwell that was there for "dealer added AC" The wiring diagram for all this was in the downloadable FSM found here on CC. I followed the diagram for the dealer added AC and made the wiring I needed. AND IT ALL WORKED WHEN I WAS DONE! It is possible to do this, just get all your parts together and youll be fine!

Did a timing belt on my Hyundai. Left a 10 mm socket in it somewhere. Started it up and it shredded the belt almost in half. Good thing it didn't go all the way because its an interference engine. Another $35 for another belt and all was good.

The AX5 from the 2.8 may or may not have the spot for your 2.5's crank sensor, If it doesnt you may meed to swap on your original bellhousing and stay internal slave. The donor axle gearing should be 4:10, so youll need a rear axle too, or have yours regeared. Your 2wd one is probably 3:55. I'm doing this exact same swap very soon with an 86 donor MJ. There was never a short bed AX5 Np207 combo from the factory that I know of, so you may be forced, as I may be, to have a rear driveshaft cut to length. As far as the XJ donor, you can use its rear axle too, youll just need to have the rear spring perches moved under the axle. The perches can be bought and having someone weld them up isnt a big deal. There are many places that will come to you with a welder to do whatever you need. just make sure they are positioned correctly. Theres a thread here somewhere showing the differences and the measurement to do it. Good luck, and keep us updated!

I was heavy into these from the age of 16 until a few years ago at the age of 37 when I sold everything off. Go to the store and find a HOT VW's magazine. The advertising in there will get you every lifting or lowering part you could ever want. it will also give you links to other sites for tons more info. I never got to build a baja, but Ive always wanted to do a rail, and still hope to someday. The last one I had was a 68, that I slammed, converted the brakes to wide 5 lug in front with 1966 front spindles and 1973 Thing rear drums. Before that I had a slammed 1959 Microbus with a 1776 engine with dual 48mm CBPerformance fuel injection setup and merged header. before that was a 1973 Karmann Ghia convertable with a mild 1641 with 2 barrel carb and high lift rockers and electronic ignition. Then there were other bettles and Ghia's before those. 1972 Bug, 72 Ghia, 73 Super, 71 Ghia vert, 72 Bus, 64 Bug. The 64 was my first real driver. Being in michigan, it was rusted out and had no heat. i would drive down the road and the back of my pantleg would get road slush on it from the front tire, and the vent windows had to stay open to keep the windsheild clear. Just loved scraping the inside winsheild with a credit card!

I don't see my upcoming combo. I'm putting an 86 model AX5 NP207 trans and case combo from a longbed 2.8 and putting it into my 87 2.5 shortbed. So I will need a length for the 2.5 AX5 NP207 shortbed combo. I saw someone ask if the 207 is the same length as a 231, but didnt see it get answered. This answer might help extrapolate what I might need. I don't have it apart yet to see what ill need, but I did buy a driveshaft a few years ago when I thought I would be doing the swap and have just had it stored ever since waiting for the clutch to go bad. Well, the time has come. Thanks for the help.

I forgot we are dealing with a diesel. The only reason a diesel needs a throttle is to create vacuum for proper egr operation. Actual throttle operation goes through the pcm to either control the injection pump or the common rail injectors. The actual intake on a diesel is wide open all the time as a matter of design. The thing that changes engine speed is the changing of air fuel ratio.

It will bolt up, just not sure if there is a place for the 2.5's crank sensor. That is the question!

The A904 trans and NP207 or NP228 transfer cases from 84-86 XJ's and Mj's with 2.8's will bolt in and not have any electronic controls. The A904 can be a good trans if properly rebuilt. There are a couple of upgrades that can be done to them to increase reliablity and shifting feel. It is a light duty version of the TF 727 from Chrysler and the A904 was offered behind Chrysler 6's and small V8's as well. The biggest issue would be getting the crank sensor to work with it. I'm not sure what autos were available behind the 2.5 's. I asked that same question in another thread with no response.

Most drive by wire accelerator pedals have two voltage signals output to the ECM. Some use parallel votage signals that both go up the same amount but at different levels, others use opposite voltage, one goes pos, the other goes neg. I don't think a simple variable resistor or pot will do what your looking to do. But I could be wrong. Cool project and keep up the good work!

The internal slave in my AX4 is finally going bad so this is forcing me to finish my 4wd conversion. My donor AX5 and NP 207 are from an 86 2.8 MJ. My question is, are there going to be any differences between the 2.8 and 2.5 versions that I need to be aware of or that will not allow this swap? I'm already worried about the crank sensor between the internal and external slave bellhousings as I would like to make it external slave if I can, but I do have a new internal slave if that won't work. If yous guys could let me know what if any issues I might have Id appreciate it. Ill need to lock my cad over while I'm messing with stuff too.

Maybe you can take and post a pic of the trans pan for us to ID for you.

Bought 11 Gallons of 15w40 SH rated oil for $40. And its Mopar Labeled! New old stock at my dealership. Old enough that it wasnt even listed in dealer stock, so I got a deal! And my clutch slave is finally going out, forcing me to finish my 4wd conversion. I hope the rear driveshaft I bought for it 3-4 years ago is right, otherwise Ill be looking for someone to cut mine down. I hope my AX5/NP207 donor combo are OK too. The oil in the AX5 looked good when I pulled it, so I'm hopefull.

Sent the Beretta back because of the broken frame, and just received my replacement from them, a Beretta Nano 9mm. The Bersa had a couple of fail to loads in the first couple of magazines through, but has since stopped doing that. Seems to put decent groupings up and has been nice to concealed carry on my right hip. I still need to some more rounds through it though just to be sure. A good cleaning and lubing is in order as well. Probably should have done that before I put the first shot through it! Ive read the Nano should be cleaned and lubed before shooting as well, so I will definitely do that before I shoot it. My wife is having trouble racking the Bersa and the Nano, and she really misses the 32 Tomcat. I finally found another one, but its the Bobcat 22 LR version, So thinking I wasnt going to find another Tomcat, we bought the Bobcat and some hollow points. But reading up on them I think I really need to find some of the CCI Stingers for it. As long as shes carrying something and will be comfortable with it I guess it will be better than nothing for her concealed carry.

The A904 was never offered behind the 4.0. The A999 and TF727 which is related to the A904 was offered behind the 258 and AMC V8s in the full size Jeeps and would only be in a 4.0 Comanche if someone swapped one in. Are you sure you don't have the AW4 and its just not getting into 4th? The AW4 has a long rectangular oil pan, the A904/A999 has a more squarish pan if I remember correctly. Let make sure we know what you have.

The A904 was used behind the 2.8 and I assume the 2.5 in 86. What auto was used behind the 2.5 in 87 and later? Or did 2.5's not have an auto option in those years?

The Flowmaster 50 series adds an extra chamber to mellow out the loudness of a 40. Mine has a nice growl under load, but is fairly quiet at idle.

After converting mine I needed to add closer to 3 pounds to get it to work properly and have correct pressures.

I pulled the Waggy front clip and doors of an 86 Limited Just like this one, but with the tan interior. It was Cash for clunkers and this poor thing was beautiful. I would have saved more if only I knew at the time what parts were more rare. At least part of it lives on in my MJ. I even still have the chrome Waggy emblems on the inside door panels! Nice find!