MiNi Beast

honestly just want more cubby holes for things that matter. like in dash cb mounting, standalone gps unit, just want to take out what i can and make my own. figure gps can handle mph and can get a volt meter with dual battery setup, so maybe install rpm tech but do i need to- i know the sound per rpm range.

soon.

can you still run and drive without the factory cluster installed? 92 4.0 h.o. aw4/231. so if i wanted to install my own gages vs factory tech. so i want to know if unplugg idiot lights and gages would that interfere with computer at all?

ok went to look under hood. wow i think i found it. brake sensor on the prop valve.

well i think i have to pull the plug. yeah from what it seems to be grey and white wire that appears to be live wire to brake light indicator. so maybe my issue with right blinker stopping with brake pressed. so i don't want to but this is how it goes, going to have to pull the fuse cluster out to cut the line so its not a open live wire in the wire cluster. don't reckon i need a brake warning light since i have changed the system anyways . less weight so i may be thinning the rat nest more then anticipated.

oh yea, your better off. grass always grows.

maybe not. maybe just open your tabs up a bit.

think you need new shackles should be 2 3/4. i think you got ford shackles.

what? your young enough to know that kind of stuff.

longer shackles can be a easy upgrade and cheap lift that can easily net you that 1" to 1 3/4" lift. however keep it in mind with shackle lifts you will be changing the pinion angle a bit this can be an issue in means of driveshaft being pulled away and off the tcase, (slip yoke), also some wedges under the leafs could help aide in correcting the pinion angle. now futher more, mjs shackles should be swappable with xjs. not sure what your working with, a pic could help, but basic theory i think you have it and should be able to trim to fit. just use a little sense and ensure overall integrity is good.

universal bulletproof billet aluminum one works good. an fittings and done.

re read it. he just said how to do it.

i have couple of these close to factory.

we know you have done something to it by now. progress pics fool.

its all good. i pulled on some wires and all is back to normal working. normal as in turn signals and hazards work and brakes light up and with right turn on and hot brakes turn stops blinking normal that is ... and wipers work again with juice. good enough, run it.

ok so one wire feed. so can i just run some juice to it.

so just pulled the melted wires apart and well now all the turn signals work proper just only now my brake lights no work. I'm a big fan of wiring.

i want to blow my trans up before i tear it down for ax 15 swap. so figure id try to figure out the blinkers again so i can square that away since i enjoy driving it daily. also need to deal with 14 bolt wheel seals leaking again. I'm just goin have to install some speedy sleeves and be done with it. hopefully can find them locally as want to get that fixed up while doing pads then id be good to go play a bit and work the trans and get my money back out of her. so pokeing around i just may jave found why my blinkers did work but yet stopped . burning smells i remember forever . time to clean up the rats nest and get out some toggle switches.

running more effeciant means better cooling engine temp wise.

replace or superglue

i made a new subframe out of a 6" c channel. just a basic setup to build off of. added a winch plate and been running for a few years now. not the pretty but functional way of how i build my rig. when get to the cage addition it will aide as the base to build the front around. and was base for spring hangers when i was running leafs. but will make it pretty with tube

thats a good deal, buy it. show him 150 and maybe walk away but its worth it. good deal.

i want one but not chrome.

this looked figuratively.