MancheKid86

as long as trans is the same your set. ie (external to external. internal to internal) may have difference in firewall mounting holes, can be re drilled to fit if needed. i converted mine to a "3 peice" through Advanced Adapters *edit* yj has a difference length hydraulic line. only an issue if you plan to run the stock line. but with a "3 peice" you have the option of putting your own in

hey yall! bought a set of new 40" super swampers. new fenders havent been trimmed yet. rear was already set up for 50% tread 40's, so i may have to revise the wells a bit more just wondering what everyone else has done to fit their big kid tires. lets see some pics! i have an idea on how much I'm going to cut. i just want to see if I'm trimming too much or too little. i took and trimmed most of the inside lip of my bush wackers out so the tire will not contact them and extrude the fender and that way i don't have to raise them above the body line . :needpics:

Sucks. There's lots of them out there though... Ya, I'm just trying to get one for less then 150$ i have a block you can have for free, under 2 hours north from the oroville border crossing

slight update. work keeps me BUUUUUUUSY, no time to play or tinker at all. . finished re drilling and mounting the old style trim on new style front clip ( i hate the crappy 3 piece plastic front clips, they look cheap and hoakey) fixed my train horn. mounted a new to me drivers door, with power everything, and finished shimming it. still need to create a quick disconnect wiring harness for it (going to use the two rear window switches as FRONT AND REAR WINCH CONTROLLERS!!!!! obviously, i will create a lock out switch so i do not accidentally bump the winches when not needed, and a proper relayed fused harness) rebuilt my track bar (oem bushing was bored out to a .500 dia bolt, but it had too much slop in the elastomer, and the sleeve was to thin afterwards) so i pressed the elastomer out keeping the outer bushing in tact, machined down some poly urethane to size. tapered the ends of them and pressed them in for an interference fit (took a few tons to get them in) and then cut down an inner sleeve out of solid steel to fit, no crappy rolled inner sleeve. with a perfect diameter bolt matched to the inner diameter of the sleeve for ZERO lash. sleeve also pressed in for an interference fit inspected and greased my tie rods and ball joints removed my locking hubs, hubs, and spindles. replaced all the seals. inspected and re packed the bearings, and set wheel bearings for proper preload while spinning the tires removed my front diff cover, inspected cleaned and resealed my front diff and topped the fluids back up LOTS more to do, i let the old girl in pieces and wheeled the tits out of her. new box next month from a member 5 1/2 hours away. so box bob will have to be done. i am working on having a straight truck. front clip fenders and doors now all have no dents. two dents on the cab to pull. and the new box has zero dents as well. will be copying reson46's body armor upgrades and steel fenders. and h3resq's roll cage with a little more tie in's to the front for more structual support. but thats when i can afford doing so.

i think, what me and hornbrod suggested is your gauge is giving a false indication of temp. verify the temp like hornbrod said with an infrared thermometer. your question about the water pump. yes, it will help, if its not keeping up with the amount of coolant required to be circulating through the system. good way to function check is keep your revs around 3500 rpm and see if the temps drop down. if they do then your pump is on its way out. when i did my cooling system i upgraded everything except the rad (i went oem, due to the debunking of a 3 core. it cools the same amount as oem, has the exact same surface area of coolant flow. some memembers even stated that it doesnt cool as efficient as oem, so its requied 3 high flow aux fans to fix that issue) but what i did do was new rad open cooling system conversion flow kooler water pump ported and polished thermostat housing and a performance high flow thermostat @ oem spec temp rating wired my aux fan to a switch on the dash. i now have issues keeping it at opperating temps. this was with a 4.5L stroker, on 40's in 104 F and up heat in the desert (it does get nice and hot climbing big hills, middle of summer, low speeds. but with the aux fan on it drops immediately)

how does this help the O/P? i wouldn't consider this over heating, it is close though. do you have an electric fan? what temp of thermostat did you throw in?. how is the condition of your temp sensor? it could be giving a false reading have you pressure washed your radiator?

lookin good! you ever think about waxing your truck? it would look better than the pressure wash photos and last longer! :brows:

from factory it had roughly ~1.25" rake. levels out nicely when loaded wheres the pics!

always wondered who was the admin for there. i had to stop tagging my photos due to the fact i posted about half of the photos on there in the last few years

storage locker build..... LOVE IT!!!! now thats getting your use of what you paid for. i never thought of this, ive done regears in the dirt and 4wd swaps in a cul-de-sac. but that is gold keep up the great work, MORE PICTURES =]

The elusive hovering Comanche! 13 years later, this photo has been finally been beaten. thanks for that ryan!

whats your fuel pressure like?

exactly, and since your lifted, you cannot use stock lengths any more, so measure up hahah

looks like you hit that rock pretty good! as for the rock rash spiral for an indication that starts faintly at the front of your shaft. acted like a can opener. my truck had a gnarrrrly one that went the full length of the shaft. it took out every output seal i put in within a week of installation until i replaced it it makes sense your rear end was dripping the atf, i bet you didnt have the slip yolk installed while limping it home, so it was shooting out the back while driving and your rear diff was directly in the way of its path, check your fluid levels for fluid loss! and those groove's in the #1 cyl look pretty deep. your going to have some serious over bored pistons or have to get it resleeved. isnt this stuff fun? i love wrenching and building stuff. my $500 4wd conversion beater needs a engine rebuild so I'm thinking about stroking it for fun, or atleast throwing a lumpy cam in it keep it up bud, you should go to bigger tires for more ground clearance you defiantly have enough gears to do so. more pics!

good to see that this truck is actually getting used still and isnt a glorified mall crawler, like most of the 97+ "offroad builds" :needpics: also, your yolk failed because of the "whoops and G outs" (ive never heard anyone use those terms before) you did prior, the drive shaft end bottomed into the yolk and cracked it, either that or there was play ibetween the two flanges ***EDIT**** did you have any driveshaft work done? uppon removal of the double cardan centering yolk any excess force with a press could have likely cracked the flanges. and finally fatigued to the point of mass failure

i've had great success in the Okanagan buy n sell's, off-road/tire-rim/jeep/misc. i know most of the people, or have ran into them on trail. if i don't know them, my friends do you have to pick your battles for sure. everyone out there is looking at their best interests there are definitely some stupid people out there, trying to sell tires past legal wear bars for $700 "good for one more season" or over priced used parts, where you can buy new for $20 more, or even less then what they want. or even people who call Trucks Cars.... just as an example there are a few mass posters between the groups, who copy paste. then delete and repost when the get called out on their garbage. i just take the bad with the good, sort it out and deal with it. but i have alot of patience, other wise i'd go off the deep end for sure it seems the dumber people get with more technology out there. they have to think less, which is why we have threads like this. educated people dealing with people that should know better

i have a 93 HO stroker, with all the renix sensors swapped on not hard, I'm pretty sure that cruiser54 has a guide too

i am interested in the long box. my condolences on your rig, and best of luck with your new one ps, reaaaaaly interested in the long box

I don't think it's big enough to decrease oil capacity, a very low speed thump and at the very bottom of the sump. plus, our 4.0L's have the oil capacity of some v8 engines, so there's lots to go around

here's another mini update! clutch line came in from advanced adapters, i had to go and buy a 1/4' male double flare fitting and i was off to the races. since this jeep is running a 93 xj master to slave assy i had to go with this line, mainly needed the fitting that goes into the master cyl punch the roll pin out, pull old line off, use quality pick to remove packing (o-ring) and transfer onto new fitting (as for AA instructions. would have appreciated if they sent a new packing, since this one is only 23 years old) and install in reverse order! at this point i installed the assembly to the firewall, and tightened the AN-3 braided line to the master cyl i had a heck of a time putting a double flare onto the slave cyl line. it was work hardened and had little to no room for error, or space to work the tools in. i managed to get it to a usable state and is holding pressure i obviously put the grommet back in its spot, this is a good aspect shot of what space i had to work with, using full sized flaring set once installed, i then self bled the clutch (suuuuper simple, i self bleed my brakes too, and they work better than when doing the two person method, due to factoring out any error from 2nd person.) this is a quick shot of my two reverse sensors being spliced together, hind sight i should have de pinned it and swapped connectors. these are enviro-splices, heat shrinkable butt connector my clutch line that tried to burn the truck down, ( this assembly had seen 330XXX km before i had gotten ahold of it, it also lived coated in oil before aswell, its amazing how oil degrades things) and yes, that fluid in the bottle, is the fluid that came out of my slave cyl assembly then ofcourse, i was itching to get back out into the bush, have more photos, but i broke my other phone, i reattempted the drive up to the top of the mountain drainage to get to gorman lake and this is where i stopped, avalanche across the road. if only i had my other truck..... i would have crossed it (my open diff's wouldnt let me gain traction whilst climbing the bank, plus i was by myself. no service) time to turn around. thats all for now, more pics when i get my other phone's screen replaced, hoping to get my rock crawler to my shop. then the fun begins and this truck can take a rest from back roading

i hope you tightened this waaaaaay more. looks good

its about $50 a side more for the whole bang. I'm going to do some measuring once my rig gets out this way, it looks close

do it up, i know of two people who have done 4wd conversions on these. all info documented

any one see builds of this done? (i followed the content on naxja for project ground up, but progress stopped, or atleast updates did) i like the look of them, and its an alternative to finding a new box now there are two style's they currently have bulge flare or swb full bedside. my LWB is Bobbed 10" so I'm wondering if that is enough to make the full bedside work (I'm aware that the length from the cab to wheel arch is longer, not to concerned for that end) or would i have to go with just the bulge flare and trim to fit? any input would be appreciated.

:drool: i love this rig.