Pete M

jack up one rear tire. put the trans in neutral. rotate that tire around exactly twice while counting the number of times the driveshaft rotates. the driveshaft with spin 3 and a half times for 3.55, just over 4 times for 4.10, and 4 and a half times for 4.56.

:clapping: very nice! just needs some tlc.

If it can in our software, I don't know how. :dunno:

how much are you looking to protect? some of the truck and SUV boxes aren't that much money.

:bowdown:

this work? found it on my photo site.

your front axle is a Dana 30. :thumbsup: late 70s ford 250/350s had some good axles. also the early 2000s ford superdutys. in fact, almost any ford truck with a leaf sprung front can work. they have a drivers side diff and are high pinion.

if there is one thing I don't like on this site, it's undue internet drama about a topic that has no wrong or right answers, whether it be politics, religion, or an in-depth "discussion" about the inherent rights of a canine in a given local culture. when a topic gets out of hand, it goes away. apologies for any inconvenience.

:wavey:

you don't need a dana 44 front. just a better gear ratio to accommodate the bigger tires would be nice. the Dana 30 is a plenty strong axle if you upgrade the shafts/u-joints to the late model XJ/TJ parts. :thumbsup:

other brands of small truck have been used. don't forget to get a bench with headrests. :thumbsup:

how good are you at fabrication? how much of a project do you want? and how big of a tire are you planning to run?

nope. :thumbsup:

I used baby powder to find leaks in y trucks. sprinkle it around in the suspect areas and the water will make tracks though it. :thumbsup:

x2 :yes:

I've got 3.92s in my dakota while running a tire that's about 28" tall. came that way from the factory. :thumbsup:

most of the small-lift shocks I've seen say 0-3" of lift. you should be just fine. :thumbsup: if you want to cover your bases, you might try asking rustys if their shocks would work with 0 lift.

65 bucks doesn't seem that bad considering the costs involved if you wang the cover again drain your axle of oil while out in the boonies. :dunno:

you're thinking of factory MT packs. aftermarket packs could be anything. :(

the design would be questionable if it was made from thinner steel, but I guess it should do fine the way it is. I would have tucked in a square plate inside the bend to help fight collapsing of the arm, but again, 1/4" should do ok. a straight arm would have been even stronger. :thumbsup:

it would work pretty much the same under a Comanche as under a Wrangler. :thumbsup:

the driveshaft from an XJ will be about a foot too short (101" wheelbase vs our 113").

and you'll definitely need a new driveshaft. check the thread in the DIY forum for lengths.

have you tried car-part.com for a local 4x4 version? or even for a peugeot? you need a bunch more parts than just a trans, and you're going to need an AX-15 shifter either way. the crossmember will technically work, it'll just jack the trans up an inch. it's less of an issue with a 2wd trans since you won't have 4x4 linkage to align.

sorta. I think it's halfway through 94. or maybe it was 95. my memory sucks and the cutoff is less clean than you might think (like most of the changes in our Jeeps). also, I adapted my 99 external slave line to my original 88 master using a pressure fitting from the hardware store.