Pete M

all I can add is: don't buy from the rust belt.

yeah, no kidding. that's just... well... wrong. :dunno:

just the lowers. the WJ arms have a bend in them to clear the tires and only need minor mods to install. MT or AT is entirely a preferential thing. all my Jeeps have a manual trans.

I have no contact between the t-case and body on my truck. other people have had some that was cured with a big hammer. it's possible they tried to use the peugeot crossmember.

the 6spd trans is not an AX-15, but would still bolt up (assuming you could ever find one). The TJ/YJ unit is slightly different, but it still works. I have one in my 88. If you found one, you'll still need to track down an XJ/MJ shifter (the wrangler one is taller, but still works) and the XJ/MJ trans mount and crossmember (very different in a wrangler). It will clock (rotate) the t-case up a bit, but that's pretty easy to overcome and will give you better ground clearance under the t-case.

you still might have some minor rubbing on the control arms (with stock rims) or fenders (aftermarket rims) when the steering is at full lock. WJ arms can cure the former. Trimming the later. or you can ignore it. :D

you can neaten up the engine a lot by swapping to the late model open cooling system, removing the valve to the heater core, and rerouting the vacuum lines.

and don't forget to search for YJs, TJs, XJs of various years 89-06. minor differences over the year can result in cutoffs in searches. (and that applies to all parts searches, not just the AX-15. it's important to know what you're looking for before hitting car-part.com)

interesting. what rims? where was the contact?

it's always like that in Colorado. well, not always. it's either blue sky, or it's a blizzard.

goes right in if rust doesn't get in your way. you will need a different pilot bearing/bushing, and the new crossmember goes in a different spot, but I'm told there are holes there already. the Ax-15 is the same length as the peugeot, so your driveshafts will still work as they do now.

the mini sunroofs were designed for the back of vans. called "mini vents" or something like that. and the gap at the top of the ceiling is filled with the 1" foam I attached to the steel. that, plus the sunroofs were about an inch thick meant that everything almost looks like it was designed to be that way.

grab everything associated with the trans and inside the bellhousing: including the trans crossmember, shifter, bellhousing guts, and even the t-case (different input spline count). unless it's been altered from stock, the rear is a worthless 3.07 ratio.

my 88 back when she was 2wd running 30x9.5s on stock rims. no rubbing whatsoever. :thumbsup:

don't you DARE cut up that Comanche bedliner. :no:

no, I mean, why did you? the timing is set by the computer.

be prepared to fight with cooling that beast. :(

clocked the distributor?

It'll work great for you. :thumbsup:

yes. any Jeep AX-15 bellhousing will work. I've got a TJ one in my 88. crank sensor is in the same spot and you must re-use the CPS from your 88. and I'd start looking for a new mechanic. or better yet, I now do that work myself. :D

a tip for busting everything free once you get those 3 bolts out, use the power steering to your advantage. :D

ooooohhhhhh... interesting... :hmm:

I used a grinder with a cutoff blade and replaced them with grade 8 cap head screws (the ones that take an allen wrench)

maybe I'll drive her to Rob's for the next get-together. :D

Thanks guys! :D and an extra big thanks to the guys who came to my house and got her running again. :cheers: Ben, you should try driving her now. :yes: the shocks were on their softest setting before. and I should probably add in a photo of the current paint job, though I don't yet have a shot of her wearing anything but the storage-only 31s.