Pete M

out of curiosity, why do any of those lights need to work? state inspections? I assume you replaced the oil pressure switch with the proper sending unit?

I would bleed the system before anything else. and while you're under there, look for a leak so you know what needs replacing. :thumbsup:

if it makes ya feel any better, I rushed to get my rocker guards and t-case skidplate fabbed up before the big Moab trip... and then they didn't touch a thing in Moab. :dunno: but different trails have different obstacles I guess.

custom. love it. it's indestructible. :D

What track bar bracket do you have? what sort of track bar do you have now? pictures?

what axles/trans/etc are you intending to use?

this particular issue is troubling to me. I changed the page, saved the page, and nothing changed on the page. :fs1:

sigh... I gotta try again to get rid of that webring thing. :(

how long before the gauge pegged? did you try my bleeding procedure?

stock arms? or do you mean short arms? (as opposed to long arms) the stock MJ lower control arms really only work at 0-2". 3" is really pushing it but it has been done (especially if you adjust the shims in the lower control arm body mount). personally I'll never use stock MJ arms on anything again given a choice. WJ arms ftw! (same length of MJ arms, but stronger and with a curve for tire clearance) going soa is only cheap for the rear. getting the front to match properly and safely is pretty expensive.

yup, frames are quite different and made of sheetmetal so cutting and pasting is more involved. besides, there's only a 6" difference in wheelbase between the lb and sb, so you'd be doing a whole lot of fabrication for very little gain. I would bob the longbed, fab a high clearance rear bumper, then add rocker guards and a heavy duty skidplate and go have fun.

depending on the current ratio, now's a great time to upgrade both axles with ones from a late model XJ and get stronger parts and better gearing all around. :thumbsup:

make sure its a 97+ 8.25 so you get the stronger axle shafts.

the flashers and turn indicators run through separate flasher units. swap them with each other and see what happens. :thumbsup:

the liquid inside the vines is also toxic. do NOT be near them if you burn them. :ack:

poison ivy vines:

were there any fuzzy-looking vines climbing the trees? bunch of those around my parents' place. the anti-poison ivy creams are supposed to work best. and jim beat me to the punchline. Jack works wonders if taken internally. :yes:

if a 4.0, you can bleed that last bit out with this technique: -put on your safety glasses -park it downhill (or with the back tires on ramps or a curb or whatever) -let it cool completely -carefully unscrew the temp sensor located at the top/back of the head (just enough to let air escape but not enough to remove it -have someone (not you, so they can quickly kill the engine if a geyser erupts) start up the truck -bleed the air out until there's no more air, add fluid as needed

what you need in the front in order to match a spring-over conversion sepends on the perches you use and the condition of your leafs. if your leafs are saggy a bit, you will get 5-6 inches over your current height, but may only need a 4.5 in the front to balance it out. there are no guarantees when mixing and matching used or new springs. 2wd packs sit about an inch lower than 4wd packs, all other things being equal. other vehicles with less arch in the leafs can be mix and matched. just be sure to retain your main leafs so the tire is properly centered in the wheel arch and the front and rear bolts fit tight.

do the front blinkers work?

flip down cupholder?

they can have weird and unsafe handling characteristics on the road. also, I can't really see how they are necessary. how much flex do you need?

I don't see that. :dunno:

sounds like a project to me. :D

yup. that is certainly possible with aftermarket rims.