Pete M

you just need to trim the steel bushing flush with the rubber.

love the bird!

if they are rubbing on the arms, look into WJ lower control arms. they have a bend in them for tire clearance.

the CC site has its own mobile version if you'd like to try it. it's not an outright app though, so you'd just go to the address.

there's no need to retain the CAD and no need for locking hubs. Jeep eventually did away with both things. you can do a bypass of the CAD (quick and free, search the link in my signature) or you can remove the shafts and swap in later years' shafts that have bigger Ujoints and a one-piece shaft on the pass side.

what app are you using?

SOA = the diameter of the tube + thickness of the pack +2x the perch height

a spring over gives around 6" of lift. My KJ has a 242 and has been in AWD mode for 13 years and 200k miles so far. I wouldn't want any other t-case.

can't have too much Jeep stuff. only not enough money/space/time.

money. saves some cash while unlikely to alienate any purchases.

too many variables. There are XJs around me for 400 bucks. but can't tell you what it needs without inspecting.

it'd cost about as much as buying a donor XJ, plus rear shaft, plus anything that needs refreshing.

'tis true. that's why road trip.

car-part.com can find ya stuff and then it's just a matter of a road trip

annnnnnnnnd that's why I haven't moved it to Epic just yet. many have started, few have finished. It's a gigantic undertaking and life can easily get in the way. but maybe he can find a buyer that can give the truck some fresh enthusiasm.

MJ leafs are shorter in front of the axle and longer behind. My guess is that the overloads would follow that pattern too.

any increase in tire size will rob you of power. getting bigger means needing a gear ratio change in the axle. have you given any thought about converting to 4wd? maybe at least adding a locker? this is my first MJ back when it was 2wd on 30" tires.

the drivelines are the same and different. all depends on what particular item you're talking about. a quick way to check gear ratio is to jack up one tire, put the trans in neutral, and rotate it around exactly twice while you count the times the driveshaft spins. 3 and a half is 3.55 while just over 4 is 4.10, etc. if the axle has a posi, then you'd need to jack up both rear tires and rotate them around once.

not gonna lie, that's a sweet upgrade

weight before bending or weight before collapsing? I've seen a lot of bent gates. don't remember one that ever fell.

be sure to add your truck's basic specs to your signature

it's all a slippery slope of spending

you're a bit hampered by the 3.55 gears. a 5spd 2.5L would have 4.10s