Pete M

what can I say. nice MJs win awards.

photos from the Florida Welcome Center on I75, one day ahead of the hurricane. I think there were more big electrical trucks than cars in the southbound lanes.

bought one of these little guys to try out. haven't dropped the driver yet so I can't comment on the durability, but I never want to live without it. just having both a stubby #2 phillips and a #25 torx on hand at all times is totally worth it when you live in a world with random deck screws holding your 2x4 contraptions together. it's even got a little magnet inside! https://www.ebay.com/itm/175275963715

the icebreaker Comanche

haven't heard a squeak about them.

sure looks like it good eye!

because powdercoating might actually prevent rust. they are just plain-jane painted. I'd wager that it's the modern Wranglers that can get a powder coated bumper.

I don't see the images. are those files from an iphone?

those are reused codes (meaning Chrysler reused the code for a more modern car and the original meaning for us is gone). it doesn't have a powder coated bumper or rack and pinion steering either. I've now gone through and edited out the common mistakes.

this is my old 90 at stock height on 31s with WJ arms. you don't need any lift to run 31s if you have factory Jeep rims and WJ arms.

stock WJ arms have a better ride than stock MJ arms, but I can't say what an aftermarket one would be. factory WJ are the same length as stock MJ, so are good for 2" in all MJs and maybe 3" in some MJs depending on how much factory caster adjustment is left available. stock track bar is similar. 2" it'll be fine. 3" and it might be not quite enough in some MJs. there's far more variability in MJ bodies/frames than you might think. and 3" of lift is definitely the cusp of starting to pay a bunch more. maybe. or maybe not.

the Azzy shifter gets high praise

does the HO have a main primary wire that feeds the entire box? can you check that without disassembly?

if there's no 12v feed at the relay, did you track that wire back? 12v should be there. at least I think so. I'm far more familiar with the renix stuff.

I like it a suggestion to anyone buying tire, but especially those picking tires based on looks... get 5. having a matching 5th (rotated in properly of course) can come in handy when one dies from road debris or a curb in 2 years and that particular tread pattern doesn't exist anymore.

do those arms bend inward for tire clearance? tubular is most certainly better than factory, but it might still rub. no, 1" isn't enough to cause vibrations.

If budget is of concern, I would do 2" puck up front plus longer shackles out back and call it a day. the rear is already higher than the front from the factory, so 2" up front and 1" out back levels it all out. 31s on stock rims will work great except for rubbing on the lower control arms, but that problem can be solved with WJ lower arms.

don't hesitate! schedule some time this weekend and get on it. I promise floorboards don't get easier with time.

like these: https://www.harborfreight.com/144-piece-body-shim-assortment-67585.html

typically referred to as a racerback. bonus that it has integrated lights. very 80s!

flares look to be aftermarket. Notch Customs I think? horizontal strips? I'm guessing a roof rack of some kind. might also be there to provide additional structure.

moved it for you.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/155212615681

generic shims can be used. you'll have to figure out what thickness your particular pairing of truck/bed is needing for each spot so it's good to have a wide selection on hand.