Jump to content

Pete M

Administrators
  • Posts

    40141
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    114

Everything posted by Pete M

  1. I don't see the images. are those files from an iphone?
  2. those are reused codes (meaning Chrysler reused the code for a more modern car and the original meaning for us is gone). it doesn't have a powder coated bumper or rack and pinion steering either. I've now gone through and edited out the common mistakes.
  3. this is my old 90 at stock height on 31s with WJ arms. you don't need any lift to run 31s if you have factory Jeep rims and WJ arms.
  4. stock WJ arms have a better ride than stock MJ arms, but I can't say what an aftermarket one would be. factory WJ are the same length as stock MJ, so are good for 2" in all MJs and maybe 3" in some MJs depending on how much factory caster adjustment is left available. stock track bar is similar. 2" it'll be fine. 3" and it might be not quite enough in some MJs. there's far more variability in MJ bodies/frames than you might think. and 3" of lift is definitely the cusp of starting to pay a bunch more. maybe. or maybe not.
  5. does the HO have a main primary wire that feeds the entire box? can you check that without disassembly?
  6. if there's no 12v feed at the relay, did you track that wire back? 12v should be there. at least I think so. I'm far more familiar with the renix stuff.
  7. I like it a suggestion to anyone buying tire, but especially those picking tires based on looks... get 5. having a matching 5th (rotated in properly of course) can come in handy when one dies from road debris or a curb in 2 years and that particular tread pattern doesn't exist anymore.
  8. do those arms bend inward for tire clearance? tubular is most certainly better than factory, but it might still rub. no, 1" isn't enough to cause vibrations.
  9. If budget is of concern, I would do 2" puck up front plus longer shackles out back and call it a day. the rear is already higher than the front from the factory, so 2" up front and 1" out back levels it all out. 31s on stock rims will work great except for rubbing on the lower control arms, but that problem can be solved with WJ lower arms.
  10. don't hesitate! schedule some time this weekend and get on it. I promise floorboards don't get easier with time.
  11. like these: https://www.harborfreight.com/144-piece-body-shim-assortment-67585.html
  12. typically referred to as a racerback. bonus that it has integrated lights. very 80s!
  13. flares look to be aftermarket. Notch Customs I think? horizontal strips? I'm guessing a roof rack of some kind. might also be there to provide additional structure.
  14. Pete M

    1J7FT26LXKL438800

    moved it for you.
  15. https://www.ebay.com/itm/155212615681
  16. generic shims can be used. you'll have to figure out what thickness your particular pairing of truck/bed is needing for each spot so it's good to have a wide selection on hand.
  17. not at this moment, but maybe later. been burned a couple times in a row with other items and I guess I'm a little gun shy to mail away my babies.
  18. those seats look absolutely luxurious!
  19. very nice but I can't help but notice there's no shot of the back seat?
  20. do you have an oil pressure gauge? (specifically one that you trust?) too thin or too thick might show on the gauge.
  21. I put a downturn right at the muffler. super simple and can't get smacked by rocks or logs.
×
×
  • Create New...