Pete M

Yup. It's taller than the MJ unit. I guess it could always be cut down.

My experience with the TJ AX-15 is that the shifter assembly on top is different than MJ/XJs and if there wasn't a comparable XJ version, you may have to work around it (I did keep the TJ shifter in my MJ so it's not all that bad). The transmission mount could be a bit different and I don't know what the length of the trans is so you could end up needing to mod the driveshafts.

T-shirts should be in our future some day. Belt buckles? I wouldn't have a clue how to go about doing that.

86 MJs had the option of a 24 gallon tank. Although I can't imagine why anyone would want the standard 16 gallon tank. :nuts:

To the best of my knowledge, the grand waggy never changed it's engine bolt pattern so it'd still be the AMC pattern.

Yeah, the rockyroad kit is really only half a kit, that's why it's so cheap.

Chances are good it's the CPS, but you should probably start at the cap and work backwards with a multimeter to see where the spark electricity stops (if it's starting in the first place). The computer won't fire the sparkplugs unless it's getting a good solid signal from the CPS (it's located on the bellhousing and senses notches on the edge of the flywheel and sends a signal to the comp telling it where the engine is in it's cycle).

The name sorta sounds familiar. What engines did it come behind?

My brain is telling me that the MJ/XJs used the 904 and the YJs had the 999.

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

If you prop up the rear end of the truck higher than the front, you can loosen the temperature sensor in the back/top of the head to let air out and you fill it back up. You might need the engine to be running to get the air to all circulate to that spot so be careful and have someone at the wheel ready to turn off the truck should you accidentally unscrew the sensor too much and it pops off, spraying you with coolant. Safety glasses are a must and it's even better if you have a rag over the sensor as you're working to keep the spray to a minimum.

I prefer regular ol' copper plugs. Champion probably.

Rear axle could be 3.55, 3.73 or 4.10. Only way to know for sure is to check the tag on the diff cover (if it's there).

With an auto trans, 4.10s and 332 or 33s should be fine. I assume you already have the 4.10 gears?

Just doesn't get that cold here in southern Michigan.

I strap the hi-lift to my rig with a ratchet strap, anyone else try that?

The 3.4 is a more modern version of the 2.8L. Swapping an entire drivetrain is not a good way to save money on fuel. Swapping an engine to gain more power and better reliability is certainly worthwhile. The simplest way is to just use the 3.4L block and put all of your 2.8L parts (intake, pullys, etc) on to it and then run a better carb. The more complex way is to swap the entire engien assembly including the wire in the harness from the Camaro and get the fuel injection system. I have no idea of your skills and determination so I can't say which is the better choice for you. See this site for some pointers: http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/article/a ... ?id=277008

I'd get the Rubi in a heartbeat, whether it's destined to be a DD or wheeler.

One last thing to consider, he's not asking about the 4.0, but a 258 and there's no way that I would trade one turd for another in any of my trucks. The 3.4L (from an early 90s Camaro or Firebird) swap is waaaay easier for the 86 trucks with the 2.8L and if you're up to the challenge, you can swap over the electronics and get the Camaro's fuel injection too. :D

tank heater? For heating the gas tank or ??? :hmm:

I find it hard to comment on pinion angles after I put my rear suspension together with absolutely no regard to proper angles (just used the angle that the Bronco axle had) and have had no problems with it. :dunno: Drove it 3000 miles to Moab and back. I know i shouldn't work like that, so I've been attributing my dumb luck to the rubber-isolator driveshaft and using new U-joints. :nuts: Maybe someday I'll actually go measure the angles. I guess there's a chance they are acceptable, although the Bronco had a CV shaft out back. :roll:

Those of you who have dropped a rig off the hi-lift, what was it that slipped? The jack off the rig? The jack base on the ground? or did the rig move on you?

While we're on the subject, I've got a Dana 44 swapped into my 90 and the driveshaft is also a bit too long now. I've got a 4.0L/AX-15 combo so in theory, I should be able to find a 4.0L/AW-4 driveshaft and it should be perfect due to the AW-4 being about an inch longer than the AX-15, yes?

I didn't pay that much but it's like a $60 item. And I'll have to combine a few of the truck's functions (or eliminate them) since there aren't quite as many fuses as the factory. It might be awhile before I try it though, so don't hold your breath. :(

Hmmm, that's pretty close to violating rule #2... :fool: I'll let it slide this time. :D http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1239