Pete M

I once bought an MJ with 110k on it and was ecstatic about the "low" miles. :D Of course the MJ was only $300 and it ran great so it's not like I bought it purely for the mileage. Fact is that in certain parts of the country the older MJ/XJs are getting harder to find in good shape with decent mileage. Condition means more to me than the mileage though. I don't care if it has only 45k on it if the body is toast and it's been sitting dormant in a field for 10 years. At a certain point in every vehicle's life, the depreciating "bluebook" value starts to mean less and less and other factors start to take control, generally resulting in the price going up for certain models in good shape.

When was the last tuneup? It doesn't hurt to replace accessories since they will be going on the new block too.

Guess so. :dunno:

Sometimes I've found a huge delay in the PM and the email. Our forum software isn't exactly the greatest. :roll: But a simple experiment might be able to clear this up. I just sent you a PM and then went into the Outbox and deleted it. Lemme know if you get it.

I guess the factory bar is slightly more functional than an aftermarket because of that little bracket, but please do NOT trust your life to it. They are more for "show" than anything else.

Email the fullsize image to me and I'll take care of the rest. :D petermontie@hotmail.com

And so if I ever need to pull with a tow dolly, you can be sure I'm unbolting the rear shaft and strapping it securely up under the truck (except for my 88, which has a later model sealed t-case and so I can just yank the driveshaft and stow it in the bed). I'm betting the root of all this evil is that the t-case bearings get insufficient oil when the truck is being dragged along with the rear tires on the ground.

Yeah, I saw that too. But I would still call to make sure. Typos are aplenty on Jeep part websites. And misinformation. I can't tell how many times I've seen an XJ AAL advertised as an MJ AAL. :( Although manufacturers seem to be getting better at realizing the differences.

I have a feeling those 1"/2" lift mounts aren't for XJ/MJs. You should call them and ask before racking your brain too hard on it. :D

Why would you need too? But if you had too, I would check for clearance at the hood (both the fan and the valve cover stuff) and the trans tunnel. Get out the tape measure and see if it'll clear. If I remember right, all the belly-up kits I've seen have all been for TJs and they are a lot different then MJs in the relationship between drivetrain and body.

:banana: :banana: :jump: :clapping: Don't take anything less than a million. :D

While they may be bad, I've never had a ball joint make a speed-dependent repeating noise like that. :hmm:

The XJ perches aren't in the right spot for an MJ. They're close, but not close enough. Also, questions should really be put in the TECH forum since a lot of guys don't frequent the projects forum and that way more eyes will see them.

Did you get a chance yet to jack up the one tire and spin it by hand?

You lucky dog! My HF one has proven quite capable of U-joints and other random stuff (like punching the rusted bolts out of my leaf springs), but I don't dare use it on balljoints.

Does it give directions for using a tow dolly? (meaning that the rear tires are touching the ground)

Holy cow you guys. :roll: Just to add more to this: My 86 owner's manual says that command trac vehicles require "minor transfercase modifications" before recreational (flat) towing. This would apply to the NP-207 t-case. It doesn't say what the mods are, only that you should go see the dealership about it. After you've done those mods, the procedure for preparing for flat towing is (I've summed it up in places): -------------------------------------------------------- 1-With the vehicle moving slowly, shift the trans into neutral. 2-Shift the transfer case into the neutral position 3-turn off the ignition key 4-shift the trans back into park/gear 5-attach towbar NOTE: Stop every 200 miles, and with the transfercase still in Neutral, start the engine and put the trans into drive and operate at a fast idle in order to circulate oil in the transfercase. And the part I found most interesting: If the vehicle is to be towed with just the front or rear tires off the ground, the speed should be limited to 30 mph and for no more than 15 miles. Then it says to shift the trans into gear and the t-case into neutral to do that. -------------------------------------------------------- It goes on for a few more pages and has drawings and everything. :D I'd be interested in what the later year owners manuals state for the NP-231.

2wd MJs sit an inch lower than 4wd, so be careful which ones you're buying.

My trans sits a bit higher than normal and I have no issues with the engine being in the stock location. If you're worried, just jack up the trans to be in the new location and see if there's clearance enough for the fan to spin freely. My shifting linkage stuff is a bit custom though, so I'm no help to you there.

With stock arms and 3" of lift your steering will wander around because there isn't enough caster to make th tires "return to center". Longer lower arms will give you back the caster and reduce the wander.

:hmm: Did you mean "do I have to pull the engine?" Then the answer is no, you can swap out the transmission without removing the engine. Just be sure to prop it up so it doesn't rock down to far and push the fan into the radiator.

Do you have the stock lower control arms?

I used a pilot bushing from a mid 70s CJ when I swapped in the 99 AX-15. It's a $2 part.

Stock gears? Stock gears and 32s will bring on the suck, both in power and mpg. A regear or swap to junkyard axles with a better gear ratio will provide you with the results you seek. :D

It wasn't catching the specific type of spammers I wanted so I just hid it for the time being until I figure out my next plan of attack. :brows: