Pete M

I once lost my turn/brake lights due to corrosion in the harness connector located behind the rear/drivers side tire. I eventually spliced in a generic connector from the auto parts store.

The FullSizeJeep club (ifsja.org) says that the 69 Wagoneer came with the Dana 27A front axle. And that the Dana 44 front didn't appear until 1974. You may want to confirm what axle you have or at least what year it is. Photos would help. :D

Maybe we can resurrect the concept of MJ of the month here. Anyone want to take on that responsibility?

I'd wheel it. :D I'd wheel it hard.

I heard rumors that the Crown Vic rims will work on Jeeps. Haven't tried it yet. 02 and earlier are the ones will a bit less backspacing. 03 and later have more backspacing and are about the same as the magnum rims pictured above. These particular CV rims are 17s. I bought a set for my sister's MGM, but haven't had an opportunity to try them on one of my Jeeps yet. No, that's not the actual car I have here, it's just a picture I found online of a similar setup. If I had that place I wouldn't be mowing the lawn of the Drs office across the street so I can use his parking lot to store my trucks.

That'd be me. Our forum software does that every time someone changes their email address. It requires me to re-approve them. But it doesn't tell me that they need the approval. I just sit in the dark while you guys wonder what just happened. :shake: Anyway, I just fixed it, so you're good to go now. :D

Maybe the outers can be swapped with later model parts? :dunno:

Yuppers on all of that WS. Every year I run it out of gas, then dump in some fuel stabilizer and run it dry again. Just to be extra sure. :D Everything inside was spic and span when I first opened it up so when I say I "cleaned" it, I really didn't accomplish much of anything in the process. I can be quite the stickler when it comes to preventative maintenance. Anyways, well it works now. I re-disassembled the carb 'cause I had a feeling that the screw in the bottom of the bowl was supposed to be aligned so the hole at its base lined up with another hole in the bowl. Or something like that. Carbs really ain't my thang. But while I was in there this time the pin that holds the float fell out and the float fell to the ground. So in the end, I'm not sure if it was the alignment of the holes or if the needle was properly seated in the float (took some effort to reassemble). Either way I'm happy because now I can cut the doctors' lawn across the street (as per our deal that lets me store my junk in his parking lot). :cheers: And not that it helped much in this particular instance, but B+S has a great website with a lot of troubleshooting tips.

My 6.0 briggs/stratton on my craftsman lawnmower won't stay running unless you continuously prime it (and it runs pretty decent when you do). The gas and oil are fresh and the spark plug is clean. I've cleaned out the "carb" and soaked it in carb cleaner. I've checked every gasket and o-ring I can find and can't locate any leaks. Any thoughts on what's next? :mad:

Use a mid70s CJ pilot bushing. It's a $2 part. Worked great mating my 99 trans to the 88 Jeep.

Ouch. Did somebody forgot the sunscreen? :oops:

The 2 have completely different systems so as long as you stick with one or the other, the issues will likely be minimal (and I'm talking about swapping over everything from the 91 if you go that way, including the stuff under the dash). But keep in mind that the automatic trans is computer controlled. So if you stick with the 89's electronics and swap in the auto, you'll have to integrate the trans computer into the system (and I'm not entirely certain if the 91 trans comp will communicate with the 89 engine computer so you might have to get some junkyard parts to make that happen). Likewise, you'll need to remove the trans computer and related stuff from the 91's harness if you go with a stick. I think the simplest way (and it's been done before) is to swap over everything from the 91. And yes, the axle ratios are different between sticks and autos.

"I Write the Songs" by Barry Manilow

That should be easy enough to test. Simply pop the hood and have one of your least-liked but very gullible (and/or drunk) friends crawl into the engine compartment. Then pull out onto the street and accelerate as fast as you can. Have the guy under the hood pull the wire off the resistor while you're at WOT and see what happens. :D

I once bought an MJ with 110k on it and was ecstatic about the "low" miles. :D Of course the MJ was only $300 and it ran great so it's not like I bought it purely for the mileage. Fact is that in certain parts of the country the older MJ/XJs are getting harder to find in good shape with decent mileage. Condition means more to me than the mileage though. I don't care if it has only 45k on it if the body is toast and it's been sitting dormant in a field for 10 years. At a certain point in every vehicle's life, the depreciating "bluebook" value starts to mean less and less and other factors start to take control, generally resulting in the price going up for certain models in good shape.

When was the last tuneup? It doesn't hurt to replace accessories since they will be going on the new block too.

Guess so. :dunno:

Sometimes I've found a huge delay in the PM and the email. Our forum software isn't exactly the greatest. :roll: But a simple experiment might be able to clear this up. I just sent you a PM and then went into the Outbox and deleted it. Lemme know if you get it.

I guess the factory bar is slightly more functional than an aftermarket because of that little bracket, but please do NOT trust your life to it. They are more for "show" than anything else.

Email the fullsize image to me and I'll take care of the rest. :D petermontie@hotmail.com

And so if I ever need to pull with a tow dolly, you can be sure I'm unbolting the rear shaft and strapping it securely up under the truck (except for my 88, which has a later model sealed t-case and so I can just yank the driveshaft and stow it in the bed). I'm betting the root of all this evil is that the t-case bearings get insufficient oil when the truck is being dragged along with the rear tires on the ground.

Yeah, I saw that too. But I would still call to make sure. Typos are aplenty on Jeep part websites. And misinformation. I can't tell how many times I've seen an XJ AAL advertised as an MJ AAL. :( Although manufacturers seem to be getting better at realizing the differences.

I have a feeling those 1"/2" lift mounts aren't for XJ/MJs. You should call them and ask before racking your brain too hard on it. :D

Why would you need too? But if you had too, I would check for clearance at the hood (both the fan and the valve cover stuff) and the trans tunnel. Get out the tape measure and see if it'll clear. If I remember right, all the belly-up kits I've seen have all been for TJs and they are a lot different then MJs in the relationship between drivetrain and body.

:banana: :banana: :jump: :clapping: Don't take anything less than a million. :D