Pete M

Tightening a steering box is almost always a bad thing. :(

An AX-15 won't bolt to a 2.5L. (not without the complicated use of a Dakota bellhousing at least)

They seem to have as history of poor quality control, poor design, and poor customer service. Now don't get me wrong, not every person's experience was bad, but there are plenty out there that are willing to share their not-so-great story. You'd be hard pressed to find the same disappointment in a higher-end company like Rubicon Express. A poor experience sticks with you and makes you want to share the story. A good experience is expected and when it happens, frequently no further thought is given to it.

A guy at NAXJA swapped a durango box into his XJ, but it appears that the photos are gone. :redX: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71626

All you need are 2 MJ owners and you'll have yourselves a PowWow. It's a lot less official than you may think. If you want to meet up with fellow owners, post up in the Wheeling forum with where you are and what you'd like to do. That's how the group in Colorado got together for the weekend. :cheers:

Even if you could (you can't), the AX-5 isn't capable of handling the 4.0's power. The axles from that rig should have 4.10s in them though. Depending on price, that alone could be worth the money. Then sell off the trans/t-case to someone with a 2.5 looking to convert. :thumbsup:

right-click, save pic. Now that's that I want to do with my future roll cage. I want it to disappear behind the fenders. :brows: Very nicely done. :cheers:

:bowdown: Maybe next week my RB, WR, and TE will be more productive than my defense. (15 total points from 6 players) :roll:

Better than half way down the trail. :brows:

Don't know what you're talking about. Clearly you don't know your own name. :D

That depends on factors like tire size and the particular type of roads and speeds the truck sees. But any fuel mileage gains either way would be minimal (and I personally prefer driveability to fuel mileage). I'll take 4.10 over 3.55 any day.

Didn't you get my PM?

The 4.10 gears give the engine more leverage over the tires than 3.55 gears. To the driver this is felt as if you had more power from the engine. 5th gear would be worthless with 3.55s and the 2.5L because the rpms would be too low at freeway speeds (they'd be below the optimal torque).

:rotfl2:

They are there. Stamped into the tag. You might need to use a wire brush to clean off any accumulated gunk or rust.

The iron duke and the AMC engines are very different, they just happen to have similar displacement numbers. (and even then, only if you round off to liters. In cubic inches they are different).

There is a small metal tag attached to the axle's differential cover with one of the differential bolts. It'll have a bunch of numbers on it. Also, a 2.5L with the 4-speed manual generally came with 3.55 gears while the 2.5L with the 5-speed manual generally came with 4.10 gears (a benefit of having the overdrive). Don't forget that Cherokee and Wrangler rear axles will also fit with a minimum of effort. Explorer rear axles will fit with a bit more work.

Purely because it's what I'm most familiar with (although admittedly I couldn't even do that myself since I don't have a real welder). But if you've got the skills/tools for stainless, by all means, go for it. :thumbsup:

A YJ slip yoke is a temporary solution. Better than grinding though. Add a t-case drop kit to the YJ yoke and it's a slightly better temporary solution. A SYE is the proper method and I''m perplexed as to why he didn't see that coming. A bit of research should have told him about all the extras that need to be included in the initial cost of "going big". :redX:

I'd go with regular steel and coat the inside.

Ben got all of -1 in fantasy football. :( Normally I'd be bummed, but He was technically on the opposition's side this week. 8)

Well, if it's tuned to the right number of cylinders, then that might be a problem. High idles could be caused by things like a vacuum leak or a faulty IAC or TPS.

Idle should be around 750 I think. 1500 seems high enough that it should "sound" high without needing a tach. What tach did you use?

My 88 should have been capable of decent mileage (back when it was still just 2wd), but I never got anything over about 12-13mpg. Something to do with my driving style I'm sure. :roll: Terrain can affect mileage too. Did you change your fuel filter yet?

You aren't the first to do that. :cheers: Sometimes a truck just screams, "Buy Me!"