Pete M

Out of curiousity, did you mean to type "chief?" :hmm:

I'm screwed if my subconscious doesn't know how broke I am. :shake:

Um, both of those shots show leaf packs I custom built from multiple packs. :D Neither is stock. And yes, a picture would help immensely. :thumbsup:

That should work fine. :thumbsup: Are you planning on using the 86's axles too? They should be 4.10, but you'll need to confirm that since weird things happened in 86. Either of your rear driveshafts can be cut down by a shop to the proper size if needed.

All the pulleys spin freely, without wobbling or making noise, yes? Are they all perfectly aligned? Does the system make any noise when the engine is running? How tight are you making the belt?

If memory serves me right, the 86 should be external slave and the 87 would in internal. External is preferred if there is a choice. :thumbsup:

I've heard that they are interchangeable, and I've heard that they will not interchange. :hmm: A part of me wants to run out to autozone and compare them first hand.

Despite what the "consensus" might say, Chrysler officially changed the requirement from GL-3 to 10-w40 (or 30) in the AX-15. :dunno:

Well, ya gotta do what ya gotta do. Shop around if you can. Compare prices and warrantys and use a factory slave cylinder if at all possible. :thumbsup:

The 86 manual says you have to stop every 200 miles and fire it up to circulate oil in the NP-207 t-case. Personally, I'd just unbolt the driveshafts from the axles and securely strap them up under the truck. If you want to pull them out completely, be aware that pulling the rear shaft out will allow t-case fluid to pour out the back (unless you plug it somehow).

Is it 10-w30? My brain has telling me 10-w40 and I'd like to iron that wrinkle out if you could confirm it. (not that there's a huge difference between 30 and 40, but I do like accuracy :D )

I don't really want to get into this debate again (since no new material has come forward), I can only offer that the dealership brochures make no mention of a select-trac option except for 1986 (and that was the 228/229 t-case). If it was special-order item through a dealership, that's a whole 'nuther ball game and I'm not privy to that documentation.

Nope. That would imply I had a clue about what I was doing. :teehee:

:no: Are you asking tech questions in the pub? :D

Good. whew... I was worried there for a sec. :oops:

Only if you supply pictures. :brows:

Excellent. :cheers:

Sorry 'bout that. :doh: sorta did that accidentally while trying to do something else. I think I've undone the damage. Can you guys get in now?

More than if you did it yourself with some friends. :thumbsup:

Yup. An open diff send the power to whichever tire has the least resistance. The t-case has nothing to do with whether or not the front shaft is connected to the front tires. That's the CAD's job (if it is there).

How about now?

Yup. I did something wrong.. Hold on and let me see if I can undo it... :(

I personally don't like them, as they can be easily misused. I made a compromise in a discussion here a while back and now encourage people to leave feedback at the end of each individual thread. That way everyone else can simply run a search for a sellers name in the classifieds, skim down the list and find threads that the seller started. It's all buyer beware. This site takes no responsibility for bad transactions or bad sellers (although I will do what I can if something goes wrong). :cheers:

Why would I flame you? :hmm: Any pic in my photo account is free for anyone's use. Also, it's not even my photo. :D

Depending on the year of you AX-15, the bushing you'll need is from a 74 CJ 304. It's a bronze unit and costs like $2. I would go buy that and compare it to your engine before going nuts trying to remove anything.