Pete M

Nope. That would imply I had a clue about what I was doing. :teehee:

:no: Are you asking tech questions in the pub? :D

Good. whew... I was worried there for a sec. :oops:

Only if you supply pictures. :brows:

Excellent. :cheers:

Sorry 'bout that. :doh: sorta did that accidentally while trying to do something else. I think I've undone the damage. Can you guys get in now?

More than if you did it yourself with some friends. :thumbsup:

Yup. An open diff send the power to whichever tire has the least resistance. The t-case has nothing to do with whether or not the front shaft is connected to the front tires. That's the CAD's job (if it is there).

How about now?

Yup. I did something wrong.. Hold on and let me see if I can undo it... :(

I personally don't like them, as they can be easily misused. I made a compromise in a discussion here a while back and now encourage people to leave feedback at the end of each individual thread. That way everyone else can simply run a search for a sellers name in the classifieds, skim down the list and find threads that the seller started. It's all buyer beware. This site takes no responsibility for bad transactions or bad sellers (although I will do what I can if something goes wrong). :cheers:

Why would I flame you? :hmm: Any pic in my photo account is free for anyone's use. Also, it's not even my photo. :D

Depending on the year of you AX-15, the bushing you'll need is from a 74 CJ 304. It's a bronze unit and costs like $2. I would go buy that and compare it to your engine before going nuts trying to remove anything.

I just checked the AA site and the 3550 (4wd) is only rated for 300 ft-lbs.

I wouldn't put an AX-15 behind a 360 R/T. The AX-15 is good for a mild V8, meaning a 5.0 or 5.2 size, but that extra 100+ ft-lbs from the 360 will test it's limits for sure. 360s have a lot of grunt. :thumbsup: I have an '00 R/T myself and did a lot of manual trans conversion research years ago and when I called advanceadapters they said they don't recommend an AX-15. The NV 3500 series of transmission would be a better choice. (which I believe is what came behind the 318) But then, you have to ask yourself why Dodge didn't offer the 3500 behind the 360. I have a feeling that it wouldn't last long enough for a manufacturers warranty.

30s or 31s. And prepare for your acceleration to suck afterward. Slapping bigger tires on a 2.5L rig without regearing will have consequences in pep. I'd go no bigger than 30s.

Why on earth would you go through the effort of swapping in the front axle when you can't use it? Just leave the 2wd one in there. And I would pass on that Jeep and keep looking for one with the AX-5 so you'll have everything you'll need rather than just some of what you need. A 4.10 Dana 30 is probably the hardest part to find on the list.

My guess is a grounding issue. If it was happening to me, I would start by inspecting the 4 taillight sockets and clean up the ground located behind the drivers side taillight. Then I'd move on to inspecting the front turn signal sockets.

Works for me too. I'm running firefox.

Never been there myself, but I found an online rater: http://www.apartmentratings.com/rate/FL ... illas.html

This page should have most of the info you're looking for. :thumbsup: http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/article/a ... ?id=277008

A photo of your transmission would be helpful. :thumbsup:

I don't know how we got noticed. I certainly didn't go seek out the attention. But it looks like we've got some. :cheers:

The peugeot in my 2wd 88 blew up from daily driving and 30" tires. Wasn't doing anything at the time, just tooling along on the freeway with rush hour traffic. BANG! :shake:

Dana 35s from just about any Jeep can work, you'll just need to get new perches burned on in the proper location. :thumbsup: I wouldn't pay much for a 35 though. Maybe a hundred. Now might even be a good time to get a pair of axles with 3.55 gears and get a better gear raio too. :D