Pete M

I don't believe it's a full open diff (like an axle). I'm failing miserably on finding that diagram I saw years ago, but I'm certain it only allows up to a 48/52 split. I chirp the tires with a tight turn in the Libby. Can anyone find me a diagram of a 242?

Was it acting the same before the T-stat was replaced?

You can take up as much space as you need asking any tech question you'd like. :thumbsup: The only rule is that it doesn't go in the MJ tech forum. The Pub is fair game. :cheers: So you mean the engine isn't warming up? Or that there's no heat coming from the dash vents?

looking for those warnings or little gems of knowledge that you want every owner to know, but they'll likely not ask about until it's too late. Things like pulling up the carpet to check for moisture, or checking that your master clutch cylinder isn't leaking into your fuse box. So what do you wish you knew when you got your first MJ? --get yourself a headlight relay harness! 15 bucks and 15 minutes gets you brighter headlights and could save your truck from an electrical fire. they are very popular and the sellers are always running out (so this particular one may be sold-out), but this is an example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/165413951630 --Add your truck to the CC registry! you'll get a build sheet and birthday for you baby as well as help us piece together all the missing bits of info from back in the day. https://comancheclub.com/forum/28-comanche-registry/ --do all of Cruiser's MJ tips. should be the first link in here: --When at all possible, do the work yourself! Tools and shop manuals are good investments. Handing over money to the shop guys only helps in their investments. --Pull up your carpet! EVERY MJ owner should do it asap. I don't care what climate you live in or how little rust is on the outside of your truck, there must be 3 dozen ways for moisture to get under the carpet and once it's there, it's only a matter of time before the floor rots out from under you. these are all the leaks I found on just the passenger side. any and all holes in the steel should be inspected for leaks and all sealants/gaskets should be proactively refreshed. --Please do not ever spend any money on a Peugeot transmission (manual trans behind 87-89.5 4.0Ls) beyond new gear oil. It is a weak transmission with very expensive parts. Look into an AX-15 swap --Please do not spend any money on a Dana 35 rear axle beyond gear oil and brakes (and if you're doing a complete overhaul, the ZJ disks are an easy swap). It is a weak axle and not worth upgrading or heavy repair. Look into an MJ/XJ Dana 44, Liberty 8.25, 97+ Jeep XJ 8.25, or Explorer 8.8 swap if you want to upgrade. Or if you just need the truck running again, look for another Dana 35 or a 91-96 8.25. Don't forget to take this opportunity to get some better gearing. --Better gearing in your axles will give more kick-in-the-pants acceleration than any muffler/airbox could ever dream of. --If you have a manual trans, check your fuse box with each oil change for any evidence of the clutch master cylinder leaking into the cab and dribbling down the firewall into the fuse box. Brake fluid will disintegrate the plastic. --Lube you hood release mechanisms! Including inside the cable and the center pivot. With every oil change if not more often. If it breaks, look here: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=872 --Use a hose to spray up in front or behind your rear wheel well to clean off that little shelf above the tire that collects dirt, which collects moisture, and rust is inevitable. There's a reason why our trucks rot there first and it's very preventable. --Clean out the drain holes in the bottom of your doors. Dirt collects in that pinch seam and that attracts moisture, etc. --Add rocker guards if you wheel. And do it before you smash your rockers. We have a long wheelbase and the rockers are extra susceptible to contact with rocks, logs, even simple mounds of dirt. --even though Dakota taillights look similar, they are different. And lastly: Be careful when contemplating your first MJ purchase. These trucks have proven to be highly addictive to certain individuals!

Time to splurge on a laptop? :brows:

Just as long as no one is using bags of salt. :D

In theory, yes. But when it comes to transmissions from Chevys, the CPS issue comes into play.

Actually, in theory 4wd can help with braking in some situations. The transfercase forces the front and rear driveshafts to rotate at the same speed and that can help keep the rears from locking up without the fronts. In theory. :D

Apparently the parts inside the 242 that allow the up to 48%/52% split in torque will likely not survive if those percentages suddenly change to 0/100. I don't have direct experience with that, but have seen the warning before.

Yes, they share the same Chevy 60* block bolt pattern. :thumbsup:

I don't own a 360, but when I visit friends, we play Halo3. Mostly due to COD-4 not having a simple freaking Co-Op mode. :fs1:

If the 91 is a 2.5L, then yes. If it's a 4.0L, no. The 4.0 transmissions have a different bolt pattern Any AX-4 or AX-5 from behind any year 2.5L (or the older 2.8L) will work fine for you. car-part.com might be of some help. It's a search engine for junkyards. Be sure to search for multiple years of MJ or XJ since there cold be a part number change that limits off the search. Any year will work. :D --Pete

If you want a second opinion when looking at the truck, I'm pretty free all week. :thumbsup:

Speaking from experience, tires sticking out that far do throw up quite the rooster tail of water. :yes:

Don't worry, it's perfectly harmless (or so I'm told). As I understand it, that's google's automated system poking around and saving info for their search engine database. I have an admin page for controling the auto-bots (my term for it, not theirs :D ). I can even turn them off if I so desire. :thumbsup:

Safety standards, production difficulties, or even that the JK was designed first, there are many many reasons for why concept vehicles don't quite match their production counterparts. Wussiest gatling gun ever. I swear it shoots BBs instead of bullets. :shake: I'd take the cannon too.

Definitely look into the prop valve. But they are trucks after all. There's not much over the rear tires so don't expect miracles. Some weight should do you good. :thumbsup: Do make sure that your load is secured. You don't want a minor accident causing anything to come up and greet you. :no:

If you have any doubts about your shocks, then it's likely time to replace them. I liked my gas-charged Monroe sensatracs (i think that's what they were called). Shocks are like oil filters, you do get something for your money. Just don't buy the cheapies and you'll be fine. :thumbsup:

You're just leaving it on the side of the road? :hmm: And you should post that in the classifieds. :teehee:

Do you think something like this would work?

Ask someone to post up a formal writeup. :yes:

How long would the AX-5 survive?

A requirement for the DIY forum is that the first post must be the post with the step by step instructions. :thumbsup:

My experience with rust is that nothing will stop it once it's there. :( I have not tried the POR yet, and have high hopes for it come springtime. :D

Unfortunately, the answer to most of those questions will be "depends", and then we'd ask the owner what his/her goals and skills are and then we can skew our answers to meet their specific needs. Besides, I like talking to the new guys/gals. :thumbsup: