Pete M

That could be construed as an abuse of said power. :D

I hadn't noticed that. But if the snow ever goes away, I have examples of both types of hoods here and I can grab a scale and go see. Remind me about that when/if it gets warmer outside. :thumbsup:

I put them on mostly because I knew the truck wasn't going anywhere anytime soon. Plus, the boots are only a bad thing when people don't pull them off after playtime to do some simple maintenance and cleaning. :thumbsup:

If the starter relay in the engine bay doesn't click, then your starter will never try to do anything.

It's always good to have a couple quotes. Also important with a job this big is the quality of the warranty and having a guarantee that they won't exceed the original written quote by more than a certain percentage. :thumbsup:

That is usually an indication of a blown resistor pack. (when the resistors are blown, it generally leave HIGH as the only choice) It is located next to the passengers feet and looks like a little cover held to the air duct by a little screw or 2. Be careful though, as a dying blower motor has been known to pull too many amps and slowly kill the resistor pack, and if that's the case it'll eventually take out the new one too. I recommend getting a functioning resistor pack from the nearest pull a part junkyard for cheap and trying that. I do believe they are available at the dealerships still. :thumbsup:

Pretty much any year 4.0 will work fine since you'll be swapping everything from it: wiring, dash, drivetrain, etc. Make sure it all works well, the wiring isn't all hacked up, and corrosion isn't rampant in the electrical system.

Pull your part type junkyards are awesome for little stuff like that. The last TPS I bought was free since I was also buying a large item that day. :D Don't for get that a new TPS needs to be dialed in once installed. I forget where I saw the procedure though. Maybe someone else will remember where it is.

:cheers:

Find me an MJ that didn't have a CAD on it from the factory (aside from the rare-ish 86 MJs with the 229 t-case). Almost all 4wd MJs had CAD Dana 30s. :thumbsup: But anyways, any XJ with AWD (whether the 242 or the 229) will have a non-CAD, as well as many XJs in the 92-93 period when the CAD started to disappear on XJs, and then any XJ after 93. Don't worry about swapping the entire axle unless there is a gearing upgrade to be had. The axle shafts themselves can be upgraded without dumping the axle assembly itself. :cheers:

Everyone has to start their research somewhere. He started his here. :thumbsup:

To put a 318 into your truck would require a lot of custom adaptation and a whole new drivetrain, as nothing there (except maybe the t-case) would be able to handle a v8. advanceadapters.com is a great place to start v8 swap research. :thumbsup: Also, when it comes to v8 swaps, the rule of thumb is, "just because the engine is cheap/free, doesn't mean it's a good candidate for swapping". I'm assuming from how specific you are about which engine you want to use, that it's already in your possession?

Interesting. I'll have to look into that. And by "look into that" I mean I'll ask Qui Gon-Jinn to look into it. :D

Nope. It will behave just like any Jeep axle that didn't have the stupid CAD. Jeep did away with it in XJs in the early 90s and the YJ after the model change in 95. Our best guess is that it was done on the theory that preventing the front driveshaft from spinning in 2wd would reduce wear on the parts and increase mpgs. It does neither of those to any measurable degree. The one bad-ish thing that could happen is that you'll find out that one of your front driveshaft U-joints is worn out if you feel vibrations on the highway (since it's now spinning all the time).

I've purchased plenty of things I didn't need, purely because they were in good shape, the right price, and in front of me. :D

CAD stand for Central Axle Disconnect. :thumbsup: And select-trac is a Jeep term that esentially means there is an option in the t-case that permits all-surface-drive (meaning running on dry pavement won't hurt the t-case). The 242 has that, the 231 does not (and should not be used on dry pavement). I don't recommend the Posi-loc. All you need to do is shim the CAD to be engaged all the time and it'll never fail on you again. :thumbsup:

I believe I did something similar to what you're thinking, only with square tube, I had to cut through the spare tire sheetmetal (though I can't seem to find a good pic showing that). If you have any interest in towing or extraction, I suggest using way more (and bigger and stronger) bolts than stock.

And I believe all Wranglers had the command-trac. Early models had the 207, later ones got the 231. Through 95 will have the dreaded CAD.

My bet is that this place has what you're looking for: :thumbsup: http://www.therangerstation.com/

I don't know, it sounds too much like chairman. Which in turn makes me think of Chairface. :D

You don't have to tow with it, I used the tow rating to indicate that the Libby is my minimum standard for being a real SUV, not a tall little car. Everything is a bit beefier and stronger in the Libby. I just looked up the 06 models and this is what I found for rated mpgs: 4wd 4banger CRV - 20/25 4wd 4banger Escape - 18/22 4wd 6cyl Escape - 17/21 4wd 6cyl Libby - 15/20 Hands-down I'd want the V6 Libby out of that group.

Have you shopped around yet for their competitors' prices?

The t-case handle is all the evidence you'll need. If it is lubed and aligned, it'll just feel right when you shift into 4-hi (but never on dry pavement of course). In my opinion, the front CAD and that silly light should be done away with. Heck, my 88 doesn't have either since it was 2wd from the factory. Never had an issue with knowing what the t-case was doing. :D But if you simply must have that light, route the vacuum from the t-case straight to the little switch that activates the light. I think it's on the passenger side on the engine bay. :thumbsup:

While we're on the subject, this is my current setup:

If they are nice and affordable, I would get them. You can always get straight slider tracks from another XJ/MJ if they prove to be to tall. The seats themselves (good condition ones at least) are the hardest things to find.