Jump to content

Pete M

Administrators
  • Posts

    40143
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    114

Everything posted by Pete M

  1. A better plan might be to replace the seals. You could end up spending a ton of money on a straight rebuild and not feel the difference. :dunno: If the truck feels sluggish with bigger tires, gearing would be the way I'd go about fixing that aspect. :thumbsup:
  2. My 90 had a bad intermittent box and that caused the wipers to do all sorts of odd things, including exceeding the stops and smacking the windshield frames.
  3. Is there something wrong with the engine? 130k is nothing for a 4.0. :D
  4. Libby CRD? :brows:
  5. I made my own out of some scrap fencing. I too was concerned with air flow, but I removed the AC condenser and the grille fins, and used a wider mesh than the aftermarket units.
  6. Are you using the old injection system? The motor block doesn't matter, the flywheel needs to match the injection system. :thumbsup:
  7. This is a shot that he took probably months ago (or when the date was stamped, but who keeps those accurate?). Picture it with more mildew and a couple flat tires.
  8. baby powder and a garden hose works wonders for finding those leaks. :D And As long as you properly repair, prep and POR-15 the floor, the bedliner should work fine. :thumbsup: The carpet does absorb sound and heat, but it shouldn't be that bad without it.
  9. Motor's there. But it's in the bed and the guy says the head is fubared. :dunno:
  10. And I think I'm going to pass on it. :( It's a painful decision for sure. I sooooo wanted it to be as perfect as my 90 shell, but the floors are starting to bubble up rust (carpet pad is soaked). Can't say for sure how bad it is since I could only pull up the corner of the carpet (didn't have the proper tools to dig further). I think I'm going to tell the guy that if no one else wants it I'll still pay scrap value to keep it from, uh, scrap. The body is solid. Just a damaged spot under one of the taillights. The engine is removed (2.5L) and it's 2wd so the only real value is a solid body (except for the floors). Oh, and it needs a serious scrubbing to get the mildew off. What is with this state and the mildew? Anyone want to save it? It's in Loganville, GA. Guy's asking like 4 or 5 hundred for it.
  11. That sounds strangely familiar. :D I blew up the ring/pinion under similar circumstances. :shake:
  12. Different axles have different weak points. The Explorer 8.8 has a poor connection between the tubes and the diff and a (relatively) weak carrier. The CJ amc-20 has 2-piece axle shafts that can spin free. The Dana 35, well, the dana 35 has so many weak points that there's no telling where it might fail. The gears can start spitting teeth, the shafts can snap, the center pin can break, the carrier can crumble, the pinion shaft can snap, the U-joint straps can fail, or the axle as a whole can bend into a smiley face. :D
  13. I saw a split bench with a fold down middle in a Ranger today. Might fit. :dunno:
  14. Yup. That'd be my guess too. It's been an issue in the past.
  15. My brain is telling me 42" center to center. :dunno:
  16. have searching on you tried car-part.com yet?
  17. I made a custom crossmember so I have no personal experience with the holes. But this writeup should help you out: http://www.jeeptech.com/convtrans/ax15swap.html
  18. Better that you found out before you spent the money. :D 95+ have the external, but as long as you use a factory slave, the early ones are just fine. XJ/MJ are the easiest, but YJ/TJ can be adapted to work without much effort.
  19. Yup. You'll need to find the drivetrain found behind a 4.0L. :thumbsup: And if you're looking for a manual, I'd highly suggest sticking with the 89.5+ AX-15. And yes, you'll need to either shorten your 2wd driveshaft or find one from a 4x4 MJ with the exact same drivetrain. :thumbsup:
  20. Pete M

    NEWBIE

    Welcome to the site! :wavey: Definitely post up some pics of your truck. :thumbsup:
  21. car-part.com will show you some of the cheaper local yards. :thumbsup:
  22. I'm even willing to grant that, all things being equal, a C-clip design will be a bit weaker than a non-C-clip design. But the Explorer 8.8 axle shafts have an excellent track record of strength. :thumbsup: If it won't break, then the argument is pretty moot. :D
  23. Yup. Mine are mounted as per factory instructions. :thumbsup:
×
×
  • Create New...