Pete M

Dana 30 front, Dana 35 rear :thumbsup:

Excellent. :D Either the reverse torx is a 4.0-thing or maybe the previous owner simply replaced the funky bolts with regular ones (like I did on my trucks).

pics?

Dana 35 rear end?

Not sure how it works now, but early on, Rusty wasn't making Rusty's coils. I have the 3"-190# variety and love them. Although it only took one winter to turn the coating to rust, but that just means they match the rest of the truck, right? :D My rustys track bar bracket on the other hand... :mad:

Not sure if XJs came with different color grilles, but they do interchange among same-era rigs. Floor pans under the seats are different, making seat swapping a bit more challenging, but not impossible. Roofs are different in contour too.

You found an XJ with warn hubs? :hmm:

I looked up 4x4 shops in the phone book.

With stock rims, 30x9.5s are the biggest with no contact. With stock rims and a 4wd MJ, 31x10.5 can be done with minor rubbing on the control arms (which has a couple solutions). Bushwacker makes some flares.

You certainly wouldn't be the first to do it that way. I wouldn't. I paid about $30 to get my 2wd shaft cut down to size. If you've got a 4.0/auto in your truck and you can find a rear shaft from a 4.0/stick, it's about an inch longer (assuming same bed length).

I've discovered that the people that wheel tend not to bring cameras. Every time I've been wheelin', I'm the guy with the camera. I've got some vids, but they are stuck in VHS format until I can upgrade some of my computer equipment (don't hold your breath).

Nope. We have a foot or so more wheelbase and so the driveshaft angels are much less extreme at 6". The rear driveshaft will be a bit too short though and there are a few different ways to fix that (retubing what you've got so it's the right length, shortening another longer driveshaft to the proper size, or buying a new one). But the SYE is still a good upgrade if you can float the cash for it and the new rear driveshaft. :thumbsup:

Big tires ain't everything. :D

Viper. Definitely. :D

Yup, somewhere back there. It's been a few years, but I remember it being a pain to tighten back up because nothing lined up quite right..

That's what I would try first. It's easily reversible if something does indeed go wrong. :thumbsup:

If all the bolts are out (there's a tricky one at the back that has been known to throw Jeep owners for a loop), then it's likely just glued down from the silicone. Be careful when prying, don't pry too much in any one place or you might chip the aluminum. Go around it a little at a time. If you want to use a hammer, try putting a block of wood between the hammer and the cover to spread out the impact. You might be able to go around with a utility knife to help cut a little bit of the seal, but I'm not sure if I'm remembering the Jeep cover or another rig. :dunno:

I would not recommend a "rust converting paint". Many of those won't actually do anything. Look into a product called POR-15. It's a ceramic coating that fuses to the rust/steel and blocks out the oxygen. :thumbsup:

The only difference I know of in the pedals is the brake light switch changed a bit over the years (and I'm not sure when the changeovers happened). Beyond that, pedal failure isn't exactly common and I haven't heard of a whole lot of pedal swappin' stories. I would stick to the older MJ/XJs. I doubt that engine choice will make a difference, but again, Idon't know for sure. :hmm:

The power steering pump slides on its bracket and serves as the tensioner. It's held in place by 2 or three bolts (at least on is on the backside so don't forget to look for it.). :thumbsup:

Tech questions should be in the Tech forum so more people will see it. This is especially important if you're looking for tips. :thumbsup:

Like this: :thumbsup:

Is it a tube-in-a-tube style with the rubber isolator between them? (it's usually visible from the axle end)

That particular parameter is unresponsive to changes in the settings. :wall: No matter what I do, the search feature still sucks. I'm hoping that the next software update will fix it.