Pete M

V8 grand cherokee coils will give 3" of lift to an TJ, only 1 inch in an MJ.

how much are you looking to swap? just the block?

What went wrong with the current 2.5?

It's in the wheeling/meet-n-greet section: viewforum.php?f=22

:waving: ask all the questions you want. that's what we're here for. :cheers:

get the proper gear and have no doubt. :thumbsup: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm#chart

The irony of which is that enjoying it a bit too much may hasten its demise. :D There's always the 8.8 if you get desperate. :brows:

your odometer will be off too.

Will be in Ga next week visiting my sister and bro-in-law. Just like the previous trips, my internet access will be spotty and sporadic at best (dependent mostly on the strength of the neighbor's WiFi signal). :typing: And if anyone wants to come on by and chat, I'll be in Loganville all week. :cheers:

did you change your speedometer gear to compensate for the bigger tires?

try to find an external slave bellhousing if you can. older MJ/XJs (up to like 87) and then later model XJs (like 95+) got them. someone else might be able to give you a more precise range. TJ/YJ stuff will also work, though I believe they rotate the t-case up a bit (which is good for ground clearance, bad if it contacts the floor)

no joke. It's just that straightforward. :D (assuming that rusty bolts don't ruin your day) The engine mounts are bolted to the frame (unlike YJs, where the mounts are welded on).

Unbolt the 2.5 frame horns, bolt on the 4.0 frame horns. :thumbsup:

It happens to all cars, but yes, we drive bricks. :D

higher rpms will pull more air across the radiator. 210* is the normal operating temp for the 4.0L Coolant should NOT be leaking out of a closed system. I would address that first. :thumbsup:

Fuel consumption can easily take a nose dive as speeds increase. It's not the rpms, it's the increased air resistance.

Is the fan shroud intact?

I like the old school graphics. :D nice lookin' truck! :thumbsup:

I've been trying hard to forget that pile of bad engineering for some time now. :D

I fixed mine with this:

not on the carrier, but there should be a marking on the ring gear. the tire rotating technique is fool-proof though. :thumbsup: Even if the t-case locks the front and rear together, I think his truck is still stock enough to have a working CAD and so then the front shaft would rotate with the rear, but the system would still be free of the front tires and would function properly for the experiment. Plus, it's always good to know if a truck had a true neutral or not. :thumbsup:

My 97 had a bad inner tre on one side and a bad seal on the other. After much deliberation, the best plan turned out to be replacing the whole darn assembly. Did it myself. :D Wasn't too bad but I literally needed a half-dozen different kinds of 18mm wrenches to get at all the bolts (long, stubby, ratcheting, etc).