Pete M

WJ control arms from the junkyards. :D much newer, stronger, and have that awesome tire-clearing bend in them. :thumbsup:

current Chrysler rules call for 10w30 motor oil. :thumbsup:

soooo, it's an automatic trans (aw-4) then?

I saw it at REI. Should be able to get it at any decent camping store.

One of the MJ lines goes to the rear prop valve, the other is the emergency bypass line that bypasses the rear prop valve in the event of a loss of front brakes. When I installed the 95 booster in my 90, I used the matching XJ prop valve and ran a single line to the rear (all new lines since I don't trust 20 year old steel under a michigan truck).

Yes! a drain!!! :banana:

where's the patience these days? I saved up parts and money for quite some time before even touching my truck for the 4wd conversion. :dunno:

you need to argue back that your buddy needs to finish up his lift.

Have you started a blog in the projects forum yet? :brows:

and it's generally not a good idea to send all that power through just one axleshaft anyways.

close. scouts had low pinion 44s front and rear :thumbsup:

no one makes a spool for the Dana 30 for a reason. :D

Your transfercase shifter is what shifts you into 4wd. The purpose of the CAD was to keep the front driveshaft from spinning when the truck is in 2wd (in a feeble attempt to save gas, which is doesn't). The CAD has no benefit for most of us. There's no need to fab up a plate. Just pop off the cover, pull the little C-clip, slide the shift fork and collar over to the "engaged" position, and then re-insert the C-clip to keep it there, then reattach the cover and start capping vacuum lines. :thumbsup:

or look into 3/4 ton fords of that era. they had a 44 front and a 60 rear. the fronts were under leaf springs so they should be easy to clean up for new brackets. :thumbsup:

78 f-150. if you don't intend on using the ford radius arms, look for 77 and earlier F-150s. :thumbsup: 78-79 had the radius arm wedges cast in, 77 and earlier are welded on.

finally got out to my local pullyourpart and there's a ton of CFCs there. two MJs in the mix and a ton of late model XJs. plenty of front end conversions. :D The big bummer is that the one MJ is a very nice 90 Eliminator. :( sigh. If I had money I'd be back there to nab a few things. :fs1:

Don't worry guys. :D The bar of soap was free (from Disney World no less) and the bar is dedicated to the van.

My old minivan has a belt squeal. After determining the cause to be the idler pulley, I now simply touch the belt with a bar of soap and it quiets down. Maybe once a week I do that and it's way cheaper/easier than replacing the idler pulley. :thumbsup:

Maybe so, who knows for sure. Pop also said this was a State Trooper, not just some jamoke. Someone you would think was at least a bit more on the "ball than your average Joe. The idiot kept pushing a piece of paper in my Pops hand. saying all information is in here... well, I read it and guess what... in THERE OWN WORDS.... "Trailer tires weight ratings need be approximate for the axle ratings" SO, I guess that is ambiguous at best. But I still read that the tires we had on there where just fine.... If we have problems tomorrow with this he is going to demand a supervisor. CW You could always do what most seem to do... make the trailer how they want it, then after you get tags, put it back the way you want it.

this was last week, but I put new moisture absorbers in the cab of my GA MJ. :D

How much to upgrade to a selectable locker? Maybe the one that's a posi when not locked?

How much does the TrueTrac run?

Not yet. We're still in "link to it" technology.

factory made trailers have a metal tag that states the limits. maybe that's how they get by? I've never used a trailer that had tires that merely met the axle's weight rating. :hmm:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.17_HMR