Pete M

I think it's far more common to lose them to rust than to thieves.

not without some sheetmetal reworking

tech questions should really go in the Tech forum so more people will see them. :thumbsup: The Projects forum is more for telling us about your truck as you work on it and we ask you questions about it. :cheers:

Low range does wonders for holding a manual on a slope (when shutting it off). :thumbsup: Works way better than an ebrake in my experience.

what the heck is that bill trying to protect? The rocks? The sand? The sand on the rocks? :dunno: Moab is endless stretches of rock. Last I checked, rocks weren't on any endangered list.

Meh. I think the 3.07 gears are hurting you the most. lower gears = more control Are you using low range on the ramps?

as long as I could without interfering with the eyes of the actual main. Other vehicles' main leaf can also be used. on my 90 I used one from an Explorer. here's the one in my 90:

we've got one in the DIY forum: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=7910

I added a second main leaf to my 88 and that seems to do a decent job. :thumbsup:

survived the trip... tired as all get out... going to bed... :ack:

such a little photo though. :dunno:

does the 2.8 bellhousing have a place for the CPS?

A weak alternator may not be fully charging the battery. :dunno: I would also pull and clean the battery connections, just to be certain.

what's the condition of the alternator?

also, don't get a 3.73 ratio unless you can find a front to match (or can pay for a regear). 3.73s were a fairly rare ratio in XJ/MJ Dana 30s. They are common in low pinion 30s though (ZJ/TJ), so if you're going to be at stock to 3" of lift, that would work.

Be prepared to swap in a new hood and radiator supports. the 86s had a single center latch, the 4.0 radiator conflicts with this and you'll need some parts from a 4.0 rig in order to fit the later model latches and 4.0 radiator in.

Lookin' good! :waving: If the 2.8 gives you trouble, look into the 3.4 swap. It's a 99% bolt-in block and is of a superior internal design. :thumbsup:

95-01 are the ones with disks. Older models are also acceptable, but will have drums. I've purchased them for as little as $75 at the pull-a-part, but 200-300 is an ok price if it's in good shape and has the brakes still on it (core charge for the calipers is ungodly high)

haha, i saw the "CO" in your location, but not the Maryland. :doh: And for what it's worth, one failure is too many.

Also, I realize you're in CO and I'm deep in the rustbelt, but screwing the frame brackets into my truck scares the bajesus out of me.

you get what you pay for. The RR kit is cheap for a reason.

In my opinion, driving on the road requires more than off the road. Just because you don't wheel, doesn't mean you will stress the components less than someone who does. Hitting a pothole at 70 mph has way more force involved than does a big rock at 4mph.

And I was told about it. The detroit area had the game blacked out. :yes:

:eek: What a shame. We had an awesome streak going too. :shake:

I had a dream about mine. :dunno: Also I walked over to check up on them. they're still there. :D