Pete M

As a general rule of thumb for pavement, MTs look better, ATs drive better.

just remember to repair those brakes before driving it anywhere. :D

dunno. but I bet it's metric. :D

there you go. :thumbsup: back to the gears issue. I don't know where you're getting the 4.44s, but remember that used gears cannot be guaranteed to not hum when installed in a new axle.

what sort of prices are we talking about?

well, it would appear that the fuel tank in the 88 is toast due to rampant rust. that or someone stole the stale gas. :rotfl2: it'll be a moment or 2 before I can afford anything so I figure it's a good time to start dreaming. what would you do? the truck is definitely an offroad machine now, so I don't need a big tank. but a new tank/pump would bolt right in. I'd have to finagle a fuel cell somewhere. and it would take a bunch of new hoses and fittings and what-not. It'd be awesome if I could somehow use one of my military gas cans as my fuel cell. :D Thoughts?

or track down an external slave bellhousing and swap it in. :D

9mpg means something is wrong. even I got better than that. :D

what the backspacing on those cars' wheels? MJs have a ton of backspacing (5.25 inches) to accomodate those wide axles.

width is important. MJ's have pretty wide axles. Wider than even wide-track Jeep axles.

What is the width on those axles?

What are the widths and wheel bolt patterns?

what did this AMC-20 come from?

gotta link?

fired up the fleet today. well, most of the fleet anyway. discovered that the gas tank in the 88 is mysteriously empty. hooray for rust. :fs1:

the driveshaft under your 88 should work, though it'd be tight and you should check clearance before driving all over the place. i'd plan ahead and at least find a shop that can shorten a driveshaft for you, just in case. If you can get away without shortening, it'll be beneficial for the lift. It'd be best if you can wait til the lift before swapping in the axle, if that's possible. new Mopar perches are like 15 bucks at the dealership and any muffler shop can burn them on for cheap. :thumbsup:

any plans for a height adjustment?

is your truck stock height?

If it turns out to be another rout, there's always the puppy bowl. :rotfl2:

this is for a Renix Jeep, but it should be very similar to your HO.

If it helps at all, Comanches and Cherokees are identical in this aspect. :thumbsup:

Assuming no one thing is noticeably bad, I'd probably start with a pair of WJ lower control arms and new shocks if yours are at all old. :thumbsup: adding a lift only exacerbates the conditions that allow DW to occur.

our trucks rot from the inside out. pull up the carpet as best you can on every edge and check for moisture/rust/bad smells. Then get down on the ground and peer straight up in front and behind the rear tires to check between the bed outside wall and inside wall. that's where dirt/moisture get trapped and that's where the rust starts that rots out the bedsides. look for rust on the fuel tank and everywhere else underneath. an otherwise good looking truck can start rusting from below if the owners only ever washed the paint up above. as for rockers, that one is hard to check. I guess you could tap them to see what they sound like. always bring a fridge magnet to check for bondo. the magnets will stick to steel, but not to any bondo'd areas. oh, and loo at the bottom of the door seem for rust, and look at the hinges to see if they've started pulling away from the body.

Do you still have the stock lower control arms?