Pete M

good call. i forgot about the codes. :cheers:

Not without a bunch of fab work. the floors are very different, with XJ floors being flat and MJ floors sloping up towards the middle of the truck. You might as well clean up your current set and weld a washer to the bottom to bring back the structural integrity. Or post up in the classifieds if you haven't already. MJ buckets and benches both use the same floor brackets.

Good point. :thumbsup: on that note, while I highly recommend popping off the cover for the axle you plan to purchase (so you can look for metal shavings, missing teeth, or like the one I found that apparently was in a side impact and the axleshaft was pushed into the carrier and cracked the center pin) that can quickly become a overwhelming and super-messy chore if there are 20 explorers in the yard. so here's what I do in the event the tags are missing. When you spin one axle shaft and the other side rotates together at the same speed in the same direction, it's a good chance it's a posi unit. When you spin one axle shaft and the other side rotates the opposite direction or if the other side is stationary and the driveshaft turns, it's a good chance it's an open unit. to determine gear ratio (assuming that the driveshaft turns freely or is missing): If the unit is posi, rotate one axleshaft around one complete revolution and count the number of times the driveshaft or driveshaft flange rotates. just over 4 times is 4.10, 3 and a half times is 3.55, etc. If the unit is open, keep the other axleshaft from spinning (a helper, or maybe a box wrench hung on one of the wheel studs) and rotate your side around twice and count the rotations of the driveshaft. oh, and for the 8.8 specifically, do your darndest to grab the calipers. the core charge at the parts store is insane. :ack:

why on earth would they not sell half a kit? :hmm: what if I wanted to 4-link the back of my XJ? :dunno:

how 'bout some pics of your truck? whole 'nuther thread there wahoo. :D

more will show up. typically for 1/3rd that price. :thumbsup:

95+ have disk brakes. bring a good flashlight and something to clean the crud off the tags. :thumbsup: Oh, and posi units will typically have a second tag on the diff cover. While you're at the yard, you'll need the proper flange adapter. I think it's the crown vics and areostars (ones equipped with their own versions of the 8.8 at least) that have them. Get the 4 bolts too. they are metric and super strong. failing that, the dealership is the place to get them. don't even bother with a hardware store. chances are real slim they'd have metric bolts strong enough.

nope. just unplug it. :thumbsup:

All explorers have 31 splined axleshafts. 95-01 have disk brakes. The lug pattern matches your Jeep. width is 5/8" more narrow on each side. Pretty much all other 8.8s should be avoided. and IF you can break a shaft on an 8.8, I just might hire a helicopter and bring a spare out to you. :D

I only use whatever gas is cheapest and/or on my side of the road.

I put a bit of grease in there before installing the new seal

I would do a spreadsheet. whole lotta cut-n-pasting, but it'd sstraightforward and would result in more manipulable data should some other reason pop up in the future.

Someone with more time on their hands please skim through this and compare it to the original email. I got suckered into, I mean, I'm having too much fun researching Focus transmission problems for a friend. :ack: http://www.snopes.com/politics/gasoline/citgo.asp

Bingo. I was just curious as to the spread of the years, but the guys figured we could gather a bit more data in the same fell swoop. Correy, are you putting it into a Excel spread sheet? you should be able to get automatic results as new data is entered. This poll could go on for quite some time. :dunno:

definitely Dakota lights. MJs don't have 4 mounting holes on the outside. hard to imagine what it took to get Dak lights into an MJ. :dunno: Dak on the left, MJ on the right:

what are the symptoms that lead you to believe it's dead?

each try was a for different reasons. It's been a while (and my memory sucks) but among the problems were a nicked seal, not enough silicone in all the right places, and not waiting 'til the silicone cured. But it's not like I knew for sure each time. :dunno: I just knew that it was still leaking. :(

as long as your truck is in good shape in the braking area, it'll do fine with a load as light as an ATV or an ATV on a small trailer. just keep in mind that it's a 20 year old truck with a 20 year old braking system and drive accordingly. :thumbsup: oh, and there's absolutely nothing wrong with 3200 rpms on the highway. The 2.5L will do that all day long no problemo. :thumbsup: I admit t where are a ton of variables at play with different vehicles and setups, but frequently you'll waste more gas accelerating with higher gears (numerically lower) than you will with highway travel with lower gears (numerically higher).

Unfortunately that was a problem just waiting to happen. :( our brake lines typically die first up next to the gas tank where moisture is more likely to stick around and it's hard to get a hose up there to remove salt. I ran a new one essentially straight back to the rear axle in my 88 (bypassing the prop valve in the process). :D

far as I know there is no way to reset the 90 and older timers. you have to buy a whole new timer. 91+ are resetable.

My 88 makes the same ticking noises after shutdown, cold or hot. been doing it for years and it hasn't blown up yet. :D still don't know what it is though. :dunno:

I dropped the oil pan 5 times before I successfully got the RMS to stop leaking. :( but I'd do the east stuff first and check for oil leaking at the back of the valve cover. they are notorious for leaking back there and looking like a RMS.

thinking back to years ago when I swapped a 44 under my then-2wd 88, I reused the driveshaft (more out of ignorance than anything else) and experienced no ill effects. :dunno: It's enough for me to say that it might be worth trying before seeking out a new shaft or shortening the old one. (though it may be wise to locate a local shop that can shorten a driveshaft so you're ready to go if there is a problem)

yup, should be on the drivers side towards the center of the dash. It's just a timer, designed to go off and remind you that it may be time to change out the 02 sensor. The dash light doesn't actually mean that anything is wrong. :thumbsup:

the factory rollbar could be added to any level MJ. :thumbsup: