Pete M

I kept catching the brake pedal with my boot when I let up on the gas so I pulled off the pad and hacked off a bit of the pedal.

my "phase 1" rollbar. 2" DOM fully welded/bolted to the frame. I designed it and constructed the frame mounts but had a local fab guy bend/weld it up for me. cost me maybe a hundred bucks.

try to get the slave with the used trans. in fact, make sure you get everything inside the bellhousing too :thumbsup:

there were only 2 choices for CJ pilot bushing when I got mine. a $10+ part and a $2 part. the $2 one is what you need.

oh, and be prepared for the bolts holding the sway bar up to snap like twigs. :(

here are many different sizes out there. bring a measuring device and measure yours first so you have a baseline.

there may be more to this conundrum than extra force on the road surface. if he's using these tires to plow snow, he needs a tire that ill work on the snow and ice. the old military style tires are not made for that. What is the purpose of these tires?

within a week of buying my very first MJ I hacked off a portion of the right side of the brake pedal because my work boots kept catching on it. floorpans were stock.

The original poster owns an 86 2.5L and so has throttle body injection so it's technically possible that the swirling action can enhance the distribution of the fuel. especially if the old injector isn't spraying like it should.

As Correy said, Automatics don't have a flywheel so you'll need to find one. and when you get it, the flywheel and specifically its CPS tone ring must match your 89 or your truck won't run. The tone ring on a 96 will be different. if the clutch assembly comes with the release bearing, then grab the 96. but either year clutch will work. I'm running the original 88 clutch with my swapped-in 99 AX-15. not sure on the pedal assembly. :dunno: the later model clutch master cylinder can be made to bolt to the older truck, but it takes a bit of fab work. someone here had a write up on that, but I don't remember if it ever got into the DIY forum so it might be in the Tech forum. :hmm: Get the 96 bellhousing. :thumbsup: it will be external slave and superior to the older ones.

^^^ has the same favorite avatar as me. :D

Both 2 1/4" and 3 1/2" will work fine. There aren't any full kits out there for the MJ, so if you're lookin' to replace the whole thing, you'll want to hit up your local shops to get some quotes. :thumbsup:

Yup. sorry, but they won't work on a Comanche. :( the leafs aren't long enough.

^^^ has better paint than I. :(

if anyone ever has trouble shrinking/cropping/whatever a photo for their sig or avatar, simple email me the image and I'll take care of the rest. :thumbsup:

sorry, but I don't see anything in those links. :dunno:

there's a thread in the DIY forum about going from stick to auto. It should help you out with going the other direction. :thumbsup:

Please see rule number 3. :thumbsup: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16664

I wasn't aware that rusty made a 6" leaf pack for the Comanche. :hmm: their website doesn't show it. :dunno:

dodge dakota will work for the rear. :thumbsup: although 20 year old rubber brake lines are not exactly the best place to save cash.

can someone that knows iron this out for me? I had an assumption in my head but would like to know for sure if all the renix years were the same.

yeah, most XJs were autos. keep an eye on TJ/YJs. they are more likely to be sticks.

my 90 only had a half inch or so of the original external slave line left and I found a way to make it work. You could always try to get your hands on a used slave with more line left on it.

how short was the slave line cut? I've successfully adapted 2 Renix era MJs to external slaves using a simple 1/4 to 5/16" compression fitting from the hardware store. You can't use that type of fitting on brake lines, but clutch lines are under much lower pressures. Also, the guts that go in the t-case for the speedo are indeed swappable. you may need to mix and match with the little gears or stub shafts to make it work.