mjeff87

Advance Auto carries them: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... 6101914___ Jeff

you want some real fun, try driving your SOA once without any shocks at all..... we did the work on mine down at Pat's house, about 1.5 hours from mine and I drove home shockless. Needless to say, I had those shocks purchased at 0800 the next morning :D Jeff

^^^agrees with above^^^ when I SOA'd mine, I just flipped the plates and put a set of short gasmatics on just to be able to drive it, with the intention of welding new tabs to the tubes. Two years later.......I've got the tabs, but haven't gotten them on yet :oops: IIRC, these shocks are for a Tacoma or similar.....they're 11" compressed and 16" extended (or something close to that anyway). They work, but not the best..... Image Not Found

check the rear stud on the exhaust manifold......I betcha it's missing :roll: If it is and you can get to the remnants by pulling the manifold you'll be a lucky man. If not, the head has to come off to get it out and replace it. BTDT. Talk about a nickel holdin' up a dollar...... :fs1: Jeff

your fuel filter may be clogging...... when mine was still a 2.5, it always took a good 6-7 revolutions before the engine fired (even with a clean filter). I just got in the habit of priming the pump with a few key cycles on a cold start, and that got it down to about 4 revs. There's also an idle-steeper motor on the side of the TB that has an electrically controlled plunger on it that is supposed to push the TB plate open a hair on restarts. When you key on, you should hear your pump priming and also hear a little click under the hood, which is the stepper motor energizing. Perhaps yours is out of adjustment or is inop. Try "lightly" pushing the pedal (like just the weight of your foot on it) on a cold restart and see if that makes any difference. Jeff

could be fuel related- 2.5's don't have a check valve in the fuel line to hold pressure after the engine is shut down. Next time try cycling the key 3-4 times to prime the pump and inlet line to the TB, see if it makes a difference. Jeff edit: I'm assuming that it cranks fine, but just doesn't start running right away. If you have cranking issues, disregard ^^^ ;)

I'd advise you to start spraying your bolts down now with PB or something similar if you're gonna try to remove them in the future. They are notorious for snapping off inside the nutstrip inside the framerail....... Jeff

I haven't installed the parts yet, thanks to my injured foot :fs1: Hopefully I'll get the stitches out next Friday and will be able to resume wrenching and will post install pics when I do. I ordered the 716130TJH 60" braided stainless hydraulic line (don't order the 48" one.....it's too short): http://advanceadapters.com/product/2356 ... tting.html Where I screwed up was, if you look at that pic it shows that the line has two end fittings (one for the slave and one for the master). It actually only comes with the slave-end fitting, so I had to order the additional fitting for the master cylinder. Problem is that there are two different ones depending on if the master is a TJ or a YJ/XJ one. That's where the good guys at AA ended up sending me both, just to make sure I got the one I needed. Here's the two different ones, you can see the diameter where the o-ring fits is different: YJ/XJ #716130: http://advanceadapters.com/product/2349 ... ngler.html TJ only #716130TJ: http://advanceadapters.com/product/2354 ... ngler.html It depends on what style master cylinder you have as to which fitting you're gonna need. Slave cylinders are the same regardless of vehicle. Jeff

yeah, quite the PITA to r&R the head with no dowels....especially by yourself. You can cut the heads off the old head bolts (if you choose not to reuse them 1X) and use them as guides/gasket aligners. Jeff

Guys, I gotta plug AA after a recent purchase experience I had with them. Probably the most out-freakin'-standing customer service I've ever experienced in as long as I can remember. These guys are top notch, and I recommend them to anyone. I won't get too specific, but I ordered up a SS braided hydraulic clutch line setup from them to replace the POS factory plastic hard line contraption on my new external slave AX15 I put in the MJ awhile back. I screwed up and assumed that a certain adapter part came with the line, and when it showed up on my porch I didn't have all the parts I needed to install correctly. Called AA and explained the situation, and they sent me out the additional part I needed at a very discounted price along with reduced shipping charges. That's not all......as I was talking with the AA tech I realized the part I needed for my application could be one of two different parts and I wasn't exactly sure which one I needed. Tech said he would research it and ship out the correct part I needed. When I got the second shipment, he ended up shipping me BOTH pieces (at no additional cost) so I was sure I ended up with exactly what I needed. I can say no more......I called them and thanked them, and offered to ship whichever part I didn't need back to them on my dime so they didn't loose any profit. They said to keep it and see if anyone else I know might need it somewhere down the line, and it was no big deal. I know cost-wise it isn't a "big deal", but I was flat out floored by the service level of this company. My wife and I just recently made some fairly large purchases of furniture for the new house, and have been nothing but frustrated by the service level we've received from the three different furniture companies we've been dealing with. It is so refreshing to deal with a company sooooo different on a totally unrealated purchase......I can't speak enough positive about AA. No, I'm not getting any kickbacks or freebies from AA.....I just want to pimp GOOD businessses when I see them. :USAflag: Jeff

10-4 fer sure I've been meaning to mention this to you, but we're brothers-from-another-mother........you're from Comanche Co. TX, and I was born in Comanche Co. OK (Lawton, to be exact) :cheers: :agree: especially "Wolf creek pass" Way up on the great divide , truckin' on down the other siiiii-IIII-iiidee :wavey: Jeff

most anything by C.W. McCall, but definately "Classified" Jeff

LOL.....door has a nice scratch in it, right down the middle. It should come out with some rubbing compound. ;)

thanks all..... I'm not doing too bad, in fact my toes are starting to look like toes again (but they're pretty neat colors) Went to the ortho surgeon today, he says things are looking pretty good considering what happened. All three toes on the foot are broken, but the big concern is infection. I'm on oral antibiotics for 10 days, and I'll probaby get the stitches out in about 2 weeks if all looks well. Gave me a big enclosed-toe boot to wear. My foot looks like frankenstein. Jeff

Thanks all....percocets and Bud Light seem to be doing the trick :-D Here's a few pics (Rob, I know you'll enjoy these) steel-toed flip-flops (not): Image Not Found post-ER: Image Not Found the grand unveiling last night: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Finally got mirror relocation brackets for the TJ so I can run doorless. Installed them yesterday after work, and was taking the steel half doors off and did a stupid move. Pulled the passenger door off and set it on the step rail to get a better grip on it, and then proceeded to lift it by the soft upper and it fell straight to the ground. Problem was, I was wearing flip flops :doh: instead of my steel-toes, and crushed a couple of toes and 90% amputated the tip of my second toe. 911 call (I was home alone), ride to the hospital in the meatwagon, 5 hours in the ER with IV antibiotics, 12 stitches through the nailbed, and got back home about 9 PM last night with a bottle of percocets and some antibiotics. Oh, and I almost forgot.....a teatnus shot just to round everything off. I go to see an orthopedic surgeon this week, hopefully I'll be able to keep the toe tip that they sutured back together. That toenail is gone, and I might have to have the big toenail taken off too if the pressure underneath it doesn't start subsiding. I'll post up some pics tonight when my wife and I change my dressings. Jeff Lesson: even the simplest of things can go very bad if you aren't thinking about what you're doing :oops:

This was the last load of crap when my wife and I bought our house and moved last year. Did it with the MJ :D and an Explorer dragging a 15' trailer. Next time we move, we're selling everything but the cats, buying all new and having it all delivered........I swear. Jeff Image Not Found Image Not Found

wasn't a crew cab, but someone built (or paid to have built) an extended cab MJ somewhere down my way. I saw what remained of it in my local junkyard last year: Image Not Found It must have been a 4WD at one time (still had the TC shifter in the cab) but had a 2WD tranny in it and a 2WD beam axle under the front. One of the strangest things I've ever come across in the 'yard..... Jeff

that's the same kit I used on my garage floor.....good stuff :cheers: If you decide to spread the sparklies on the floor after you coat it, don't try to "direct" them where you want to go. Spread a section of floor, then take a handfull of the chips and underhand-toss them straight up in the air above it. They settle out better on the surface and not clump up or lay down to heavy in any one area. Took me about half of my floor before I figured that one out..... Jeff

yes, MAT sensor. If you decide to replace it (and can find a new one for sale anywhere) be very gentle with it. The threaded part beneath the hex head is very prone to snapping off flush in the manifold. PITA to get the remnants of it out without dropping little bits of it into the manifold. Jeff

X2 I'm still running my stock 2.5L coil/ignition module on the 4.0. Works fine. Jeff

I've got a spare (complete) 2.5 sitting up in storage in PA that I've been meaning to do something with. Came out of an 87 MJ (75K miles) from a NAXJA buddy over in TN and it's been sitting for the last few years. By complete, I mean we disconnected the exhaust, cut the fuel lines and discoed the wiring harness and yanked it out. Still has the plugs and the oil in it :D PM me if you're interested, I could be persuaded to bring it back down to VA and meet you with it if so..... Jeff

you can use an auto TPS, you just don't plug in the seperate pigtail that normally goes to the TCU. (I'm running an auto TPS in my MJ now, so I can verify that it works ;) ) Jeff

well, the verdict is in......it worked :thumbsup: unbolted the slave and pulled the pushrod out of the bell, pointed it straight down and with the cap off the master started pumping the pushrod in and out. After about 10-15 short pumps I heard a "bloop" and crawled out to check the fluid level. It had dropped by about half. Filled it back up and gave it a few dozen more pumps (didn't hear any more bubbles coming from up top) and bolted it all back up. I now have a full clutch. Now if I can only find someplace in this hick town that sells Redline, and Spicer u-joints, I'll be a happy man. I decided to try running 10W30 instead of gear lube, and while it's working ok, there's no noticeable improvement in shifting, so I'm gonna treat it to some good stuff (if I can find it :fs1: ) Jeff

O2 sensor unplug it and run it, see if the problem goes away Jeff