HOrnbrod

Did the hard pedal occur all at once or has it been like that since day 1? If it happened all at once, the booster's prolly fubar. Now's a good time for the 95-96 booster/master, si?

Okay guys, I've junked the idea of the Pontiac hood vents, and managed to glom a set of regulation ZJ vents. They will be painted to match the hood gray - NOT chromed. :D I need some opinions again. The image on the bottom is the factory location. If I put them there, I can not use the drip pans - no room. Plus if water gets in, it will drip right on my K&N intake on the left side, and auxilliary fuse panel on the other side. The top location is where I can use the pans if needed, like in winter, and if water gets in, no harm done because of their location. Cosmetically I like the forward location; functionally I like the rear location. So what do you guys think? Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Especially if you're north of the Mason Dixon line. Pull the carpets, and bring a magnet........

I've always used polyurethane clearcoat, and the retarder (retardant ?) comes in an eye dropper; # of drops per humidity. But I always go a couple of drops more than recommended - 'Bama you know........

Yes. I am using one now - chrome of course. :D

You know, it I were you, I would give it a go before shelling out coin for the expensive SYE kit. Since you have a long bed, do your lift, slap on an extended length slip yoke on the front of your driveshaft (like the one linked to Ebay below), then use axle shims to get your u-joint operating angles right (front & rear = parallel less 2* down on the diff pinion), and try it out. This way you're only out the cost of the yoke and the shims. I know a couple of guys down here who have 5"-6" of lift on their longbed MJs and get no vibes. http://tinyurl.com/5hg7r6

Yeah, clear coat will do that on a high humidity day w/o adding retarder. 'Course, that's hard to do with a rattle can. :eek:

The pinion should be pointing up towards the center of the output shaft less 2-3 degrees downward to make the alignment closer under acceleration. This is accomplished of course either by rotating the spring perches or axle shims. Since you have a long bed and the driveshaft is longer, that helps out with with the t-case u-joint operating angle.

Don't know about the Renix, but the wiring is there in the HOs, all except the short piece from the front bulkhead connector to the fan itself. And the fan relay is missing from it's socket in the Power Distribution Center. The trigger wire from the ECU to the relay coil is there too. 'Course, this doesn't help ya with the Renix Jeff. Is the temp switch bunghole free on your radiator? If so I'd stick an OEM switch in there to an external relay and wire in a manual over-ride dash switch. Or you could get the 1991+ Thermostat housing w. the bunghole and put your temp switch there.

Definitely "IDIOT OF THE MONTH AWARD" material. What was the fool doing kite surfing in a near hurricane? :nuts:

MJ's w/o A/C and/or the HD Towing package options did come with an electric fan from the factory. So you will have to add one in addition to the mechanical fan.

I think the 96 models were the first year for R134a for Chryco. Also X2 on adding an electric fan to your existing mechanical fan when you add A/C.

No, R12.

Like John says, on non-factory A/C equipped rigs, the wiring isn't there and you will have to wire it in manually with a dash switch, relay, and a sensor (if you want it, recommended). Off topic JohnQ, but how is that cat doing??

Mine are all Phillips head Jim.

91 HO samo-samo. That's a problem JT. :cry:

Hey Sir Sam, you would fit right in down here, except maybe your yard's too neat. The more junk in the front yard, the richer you are. :D Especially if the wrecks are sitting on hollow blocks on the grass (weeds), 'cause that means you're not only rich, but smart - less grass to cut bi-annually. :cheers:

Just stick some black mollies in there as sacrifice fish. They are cheap, and if they live, start adding the real fish. :cheers:

The HOs, 1991 and up. But I doubt the stat housing will have sufficient depth for the mech. temp bulb.

Rears should work if you have any lift (2-3 inches). Here's the tech POC from ARB. Call TR and tell him the p/n 's and your application, and he'll tell you straight: T.R. Burrus Sales Midwestern Region ARB USA 720 SW 34th Street Renton, WA 98055 425-264-1391 425-264-1392 FAX 888-4ARBUSA www.arbusa.com

Here's a pic. It goes in the dash where the clock slot is. I've had a few of these over the years, and the sensors required for complete monitoring are impossible to find. So I didn't bother.

Oh yeah, I remember that one now.................

Count me in on the beer. :beerhead: BYW Akula, where in 'Bama is it?

Yeah, I used to be into salt water aquariums bigtime when I lived in Guam and the Marshall Islands and caught all the stuff I had in the tank snorkeling the reefs. That seems like a lot of fish and invertebrates for a 37-gal tank. :eek: My favorite display was my sea anemones with their troops of clownfish. I used to feed put damsels and sergeant majors in the tank and watch how the clowns would lure them into the tentacles of the anemones then feed off the carnage. One thing I learned is that you can over populate a salt water tank with no problems if you run a VORTEX diatom filter a couple of hours bi-weekly or so. Those filters are worth their weight in gold. Right now all I have is a fresh water tank stocked with local species from the lake out back; bass, crappie, bream, channel cats, even a small striper. I have a pet bass that is like a dog; eats Alpo fed by hand. :cheers:

Go South, young man! and get one there. It's got to be disheartening fighting the never-ending battle against rust that you can't win. You should be able to find a good candidate in GA.