HOrnbrod

Sure - just PM me your address. :D

Here, this may help. I ASSume this is the wheel you have; if you need the diagram for the 3-spoke wheel let me know. Image Not Found

True Wahoo. When you splice two speakers in parallel, like adding a L and R pair of tweeters to an existing pair of front speakers, you lower the resistance (impedence) the head "sees" at the output. The OEM speakers are rated at 4 ohms/ea, and the L & R channels are looking for a 4 ohm impedence, so the output is balanced. If you spliced another 4 ohm speaker to a channel, the impedence would be 2 ohms. A 2 ohms impedence would cause excess heat and eventual damage to the head final output. The formula for parallel resistance is: 1 / R = 1 / R1 + 1 / R2 so by plugging in two 4-ohm resistors connected in parallel: 1 / R = 1 / 4 + 1 / 4 so R=2 ohms. But if you wired in an 8 ohm tweeter in parallel with an existing 8 ohm speaker, the impedence would be: 1 / R = 1 / 8 + 1 / 8 so R= 4 ohms. Bottom line: You never want the impedence on any channel lower than 4 ohms. The "fix" when adding speakers to a channel is to only parallel speakers rated at least double the impedence of the head channel output.

Then what you've done is parallel the speakers and cut the speaker impedence in half. Good way to burn up the final on your head unit. :eek:

You also need a tool like this one from NAPA to disconnect the quick-disconnect fittings. http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=SER&PartNumber=3530&Description=A%2fC+%26+Fuel+Line+Quick+Disconnect+Set

Here are the Dorman/Help numbers for all the items : Pressure Hose 624301 Return Hose 624300 Metal tube 624334 Fittings at Tranny 800714 Rock Auto has them all.

I would still check the voltage at the pump when running first. Doesn't take long, and could save you a few $$. :cheers:

Brett Favre is becoming fake football. What a soap opera. :nuts: BTW, count me in on the fantasy football participation. :cheers:

Check the resistance of the ballast resistor, if you still have it not bypassed. The ballast resistor is relayed in the FP voltage supply circuit after the engine starts, and it drops the FP voltage down to 9-10 VDC to lower the noise and supposedly prolong the life of the FP. But if the connections are corroded on the resistor, or anywhere else on back to the pump, the actual operating voltage will be significantly lowered. This can cause low fuel pressures and weird noises from the pump. Get back in there and measure the actual operating voltage AT the pump after startup. This will give you a good starting point for troubleshooting.

The link to your photobucket pics should be as below. Use the "Preview" feature before you post. Man, that's ugly........ :eek: Good ol' VT salt.

Another example on an MJ that Shawn posted. I like it a lot better than the Chinese 2500 front end. It kinda goes with the newer big grille Dodge and Ford, only better.

Thanks Jeff - just ordered one. Now if only my puny compressor can run it. :eek:

Nope, if I was to change the front clip, it would be to the classic retro Waggy quad lights & grille. Image Not Found

Never thought I'd hear this from you Don. :eek: Yeah, "Too much of a good thing is never good" Rough translation, Perciles, 472 BC :cheers:

Well there must be a few of us voting tonight, as she's moving up right smartly. :cheers:

Looks similar to a canoe carrier I had on my S10 years ago, but I had the canoe more forward so I could rope the bow down straight to the front bumper. Without tying down the bow I would get canoe vibrations at speed. Your's work alright like that?

Noticed you have a SE. I just sold my 90 300CE in the Diamond Blue color. It was either the Benz or the MJ - no contest. :cheers:

Arg, that Benz. :brows: Yeah, waaaaaaaay too much chrome.

Benz??

The XJ/MJ stock sway bar end link length was increased to 8-1/2" after 1991. I just used a set of these longer links with a bar from a V8 ZJ for my 3" lift, works fine. :cheers:

Good eye James. :eek: Actually that's normal for my stroker w. the Hesco HO oil pump, until it warms up. :chillin:

Here's the link to the manufacturer, Ididit. You'll want the 3-speed indicator with the AW4. Pick out the style you want, then search for the part number. I actually got mine on Ebay new for about halfprice. The shift bezel mounts w. either double-sided tape or screws on the stationary upper column housing, and the pointer mounts on the moving lower housing behind the bezel. Very simple. http://www.ididitinc.com/accessory_pages/sh.htm

I have a similar Whirlpool fridge in the basement we use for overflow. It's almost 20 years old and has been clunking at shutoff for about ten years now. It's still hanging in there. :D

No, but I did use a black Sharpie on the circle around the JeeP logo. Came out nice. I need a sharper Sharpie to do the letters as soon as I remember to pick one up. :roll:

The indicator cable is attached to the steering column shroud with a clip. Reach under and remove the clip. To align the pointer, put the transmission in PARK, align the pointer with the PARK position, then re-install the clip on the column shroud. OR, since you have the shift indicator in the cluster, you do not have a full gauge cluster. You could swap in a full gauge cluster and use an aftermarket indicator like below.