HOrnbrod

Was heading to the Post Office today and spotted the below MJ campaigning for our upcoming Arab, Alabama local election. I have not seen the MJ before and do not know Mr. Kennedy, but I think I'll vote for him 'cause I like his style. :cheers: Image Not Found

X2. Eagle has a way of breaking things down in a way we all can understand and act on. Except when he's out in the lower 40 cruising around in his power chair.

:roll: I think he's passed out now................ :nuts:

Man, you know what I'm gonna say: CHROME, it's a no-brainer. :cheers:

Sounds like excessive pressure building in the pump due to a internal restriction. The most pressure is generated at full lock, so did Teraflex mess with your steering stops? Check the fluid level first, make sure it's not milky (air) looking. If so, change out the fluid and bleed by filling and turning lock to lock several times to expel all the air. There is a pressure relief valve on the back of the fluid tank, but they seldom go bad. If this doesn't help, your pump is prolly fubar. You can rebuild them, but it's easier just to replace it. I had to do this not too long ago. :cry:

Hey Rick-man! Welcome back mate. That B a fine lookin' rig. Good pics too. Some of the background pics look like Petersen AFB buildings? Been awhile since I've been out there. :cheers:

I'll move a washer to the other side to even it out, it's not all tight yet anyhow... and I only got one side done and the chances of me getting the other side done tonight are not great.... And it's dark, or gonna be, so it might be at least tomorrow until there are any "finished pics" SW2 Yeah, place a washer on each side to keep the geometry correct. That's the hole I used (oops :eek:); it netted a good inch lift. Leave loose until both shackles are installed, jump up and down to settle, then torque the four bolts. Looks like a pewter finish Wade. :cheers:

Lifts 101. When you lift your rig, the top of the diff rotates forward, the wheels rotate backward. To negate these effects the lower control arms need to be lengthened, i.e. more + caster. Caster and front pinion angle on lifted rigs is a compromise to find the ideal pinion angle so the u-joint working angle is within specs and does not cause vibes, and the caster is pos enough to have good straight line steering. And yes vibes are not DW, but they certainly contribute to it. So pinion angle does have dick to do with DW. Get real.....

Missed that CW. XJ/MJ specs are 6*-10* POS caster (wheel forward of vertical) at least according to the antique machine at my friends shop. I have mine set at 8* POS, but I don't have the front driveshaft pinion angle to worry about either. :D

Actually, the bushing rod is about the same length. I used them awhile back before I replaced my leaf packs and had to open up the upper frame bracket with a length of threaded rod and a couple of nuts/washers to get them in. You'll also need a couple of shim washers between the shackles and the spring bushings as they were a bit wider. They don't look quite as beefy though as the OEM GM shackles I used...........

Since he only installed 1-3/4" coil spacers up front, I think the caster can be corrected easily enough with a couple of 4mm shims behind the LCAs. You can get these from the dealer, p/n 52003976 for about $1.50/ea. I'd concentrate on the things Motion mentioned mostly, like the TREs and track bar bushings. Get it all tight, then get it aligned.

Aye! Good stuff. :cheers: Looks like your Rott will need a bigger pool soon......... :popcorn: And just to stay on topic: Jeff, I've got three or four new injector O-rings sets if you need one, just holler.

Bout $50 for shipping a tailgate (came DHL I think) depending on too/from locations... You can ship it Greyhound probably for $30 or less. Oh, and I've been told the internals on the S10 tailgate are the same; I know the handles are the same.

PM sent. :cheers: Actually that's not too bad at all w. the HD bracket. Better deal than most I've looked at. :D But what about my other questions? Might be overkill for me, but I'm sure some of the members would like to know. Also what's bushing material, any drop on the frame end or same geometry, and cntr-to=cntr length when adjusted at it's shortest and safe longest (lift range)? It's beefy, I like the design, and like CW says, should have zero binding problems. Have you run this one personally Adam?

Not the RE HD (RE1660) bar. That bar won't work in your application anyways. The RE bar has a larger superflex joint on the end, and the bracket itself is larger (and designed different), as well as the diameter of the tubing used for the bar itself.. I like it. How long is it and what's the total adjustment? Who makes it? But the BIG question is: How Much? (Adam, you can shoot me a PM back-channel if you like so I can have my coronary w/o disturbing the guys on the forum. :D )

I'll bet it was BL Lime too CW. ROLF ROLF :cheers:

That looks like the RE HD bar and if so will be waaaaay too many $$ mate. :cheers:

The measurement from the cntr of the axle mounting bolt to the cntr of the zerk on the frame end is 31-3/16".

As close as I can tell when measuring w. a level and outside tire distance to the same point on the spring perch on both sides, my axle has shifted to the left 3/8" to 1/2".

This is all good stuff and very informative. To me the very best and strongest track bar is a solid one piece unit like the OEM bar w. no heim or TRE joint, cut to length to match your lift. But I only need a TB about 3/8" to 1/2" longer than the stoac bar, so my options are limited. Most TBs are too long for my application, 3" and above, and I can not drill a new mounting hole at the axle bracket because the holes would be too close. So my choices are the Motion heim joint TB, the Tera TRE/adj sleeve TB, or a solid custom. Since I can not find a solid custom TB 1/2" longer than my stock, and I'm not at all sure the extended use of a heim joint on the street, I'm leaning more toward the Tera bar, mainly because I stay on the street and think it will be fine for my application.

Looks cool, but why? Just curious..........

Yeah CW, I like TeraFlex stuff too. Have used their disk brake kits, shackles, and other products with zero problems. Please keep in mind that my MJ never sees any offroad; the most stressful things she sees is makin' speed runs on the back roads to the next county for beer runs or smokig' some ricer at a light. All I'm looking to do is move my front axle back to center about 1/2" to the right. JKS makes good stuff, that's for sure. But I don't really think I need it. My reasoning is that the tie rod and the drag link use the adjustment sleeve, so why not the track bar? And the TF unit is thicker than the stock stuff too. The only OEM parts I have left on my steering/suspension/drivetrain is the drag link, track bar, and the regeared D35. I suspect the D35 axles will go pretty soon :D , at that time I'll go to a D44 and swap tha disks over using new backing plates, or build a Super D35. I'm sure both the Motion and TF adjustable track bars will both be more than enough for my needs, but I can get the TF a whole lot cheaper. Hopefully Adam can chime in and contradict this? :cheers:

Some of those smartarse Cali folks have no taste.......... 8) Chrome WILL return! :beerhead:

If only you could get those mirrors in chrome.........sigh.............

Lot's of good input from Motion Offroad - thanks. I will go with an adj. bar, and have settled on either Motion's or the Teraflex bar. Both will work fine for my modest lift. I like the Teraflex since it has an adjustable sleeve and one end does not have to be removed. Since my rig never sees anything but the pavement, I think wither one will be fine. Opinions?