HOrnbrod

Wow! Nice stripers CW. Must have got them in the Sound. :D So glad to see these fish have come back. They were almost extinct when I lived up there. Believe it or not, there are a few landlocked stripers out back in my lake. Nothing like those monsters though. :bowdown:

I only been fishing once up North, out of Halifax, NS. Long way from you Dirty. :D Went bottom fishing and caught about 1000 cod, haddock, and hake. But I've been fortunate to live in some great fishing places like the Philippines, Guam, and the Marshall Islands, and have caught some big marlin, dolphin, wahoo, barracuda, and various species of tuna. But I get just as much of a kick, maybe more, reeling in a good largemouth or crappie.

Well, the taxidermist got 'er done on time as promised. I just picked her up since his Dad is out of town and am having a brass name plate etched up with my nephews name, date, weight of the fish, and location of the catch (my back yard) :eek: . It's definitely the same fish, notice the split tail. Will give it to the kid on the July 4th weekend. I think he'll like it...... :D Image Not Found

Here's a pic of the radio mounting plate:

The trouble with the adapter kits is that the XJ/MJ dash bezel fits over the single DIN radio slot, not around it as most others do, so the adapters just do not look right IMHO. In the pic below, I swapped in a Mitsubishi single DIN CD player and redrilled the old cassette player on the two sides at accept the new CD player. Easy to do and makes a secure more factory looking install and you don't have to trim the radio hole opening. You can pick up a cassette player mounting plate at the yard.

NATIONAL BEARINGS/NATIONAL HUB ASSY - Front Outer Bearing Set, Item No: A2 and NATIONAL BEARINGS/NATIONAL HUB ASSY - Front Inner Bearing Set, Item No: A6

I have clusters, but not complete w. gauges at the moment. But you could swap your existing gauges into an new cluster easily though (as you know well :D ). Shoot me a PM if you need one. Don

I get them at O'Reillys since I have an account there. Ask for the National bearing set for the inners and outers, priced at $6.49 & $5.49 /ea respectively. They are made by Spicer. :chillin:

Sure can JT. It is a one piece hub, but the rotor comes off easy, once you slip the caliper off, remove the cotter pin, unscrew the hub nut, and slide it off. Just did a bearing and race replacement this week. Bearings and races are pretty cheap, so I don't repack the old bearings, just replace both. :cheers:

Started in 97, OBDII.

Yeah, why not #2. I'd be interested if this thing is finally going to change hands..........

If you're saving up for college, be serious and concentrate on just that. A lift on your rig is great to have, but is absolutely not needed at this stage in your life. Just keep your rig in good D/D shape, maintain it well, then do your lift right later when you've accomplished the more important stuff first. You know what it is. I'm not trying to preach to you here at all, but by going the cheap lift route, even though you calculate down to the penny what you think it will cost, there is always a snag, a hidden cost you were not planning on. Snapped bolts, needed tools, possible alignment/wheel balance/vibe problems; the list goes on, and it always costs more than your original estimates.

Well, I was off - but not by much. I think this sale might be legit this time. :cheers:

The New England Aquarium at the Central Wharf is really good. But watching the Sox at Fenway is great!

I had a bad rubbing problem trying to use some Canyon wheels with my Teraflex rear calipers (Ford Explorer). There was no way I could grind enough off the caliper casting to use the wheels. But the OEM Ravine wheels had plenty of clearance w. no grinding required. I guess all alloy OEM wheels are not created equally even if they are for the same models.

The computers can interchange if the engines and transmissions are the same. If not, you may have problems. The regulators are riveted in from the factory. Use a small drift punch to drive the rivet center pin out first, then they will drill out easier. Use 1/4"x20x1/2" bolts to install them back in. Not sure about the master, but the boosters are the same.

I don't know what would happen (might leak :eek: ), but the lip on the new retainer plates should face inward toward the pumpkin.

What I don't understand is that since you're using the same axles and diff housing that the old drum brakes were on, why should the seals start leaking w. the disks? Mine don't.

Don't "tap" them too hard or you will break the plastic tabs that the screw anchor spring nut is mounted on. Don't ask how I know. :headpop: The spring nut should be replaced as well as the screws.

Any slop in the u-joints?

Yeah, I guess that justifies buying a timing light or some other tool from a merchant who's trying to make an honest living, using his product, then bring it back and lie to him/her and get your money back. Sorry man, that's just warped. :nuts:

Gotta get me one of these:

Made in the USA - Aussie tyre site. :D Yeah, they're great tires TNT.

I don't know Chico. A running temp reading of 119.5 ohms should return a gauge reading of >220*. Stick an OEM sensor in there and see if it reads okay, it's cheap. If not there's a resistance problem between the sensor and the temp gauge. I've got tons of cluster parts I can send you like new foil p/c backing, etc. but I think it could be in the harness.

I've got a 30" under there, and also have 31" tires. Fits fine.