HOrnbrod

There I go ASSuMing again because they carry different part numbers. How are they marked? I've had mine off a few times but never looked at them.

No the left and right rear flares are different. As are the retainer pieces.

Nope, you need an ECU from a Renix MJ or XJ, 1990 or below w. the 2.5 and 5-speed to be compatible w. your rig.

That's what I have, but w. differences. 2.5" cherry bomb in place of the cat, then a Walker Free Flow 2.5" single in, dual out w. dual pipes exiting sideways under the bumper. No resonation or droning while cruising, a nice quiet subtle sound, but when you punch the stroker, it screams. I've tried the 40 series but it caused resonance. Stroker engines have an entirely different sound.

True, pulling and re-installing the rad is simple and fast. I just hate going through draining the coolant, refilling, the "burping" crap, over and over. Plus the cost of replacing antifreeze if needed. Worth $10 to do it only once. Know what I mean Vern? :D

If you're taking the western route thru 'Bama, we'll be here. Sent you a PM mate.

THANK YOU!

I'm not sure Chico. I didn't remove it since I wasn't going to use it. It's got a recessed hex head on it, so I ASSuME it does. Best to call Bryan above and ask to be sure.

Game 1 tonight from the Gah-den. CELTS WILL WIN IN 7 (that is if they can keep the homecourt advantage.) :brows: :beerhead:

I'm not sure who you are addressing - please quote who you are responding to. But anyway, if you are addressing me, go to this website: http://www.alumrad.com/dblpass.html, call 1-866-258-6723, ask for Bryan, and he will fix you up. I just ordered mine two weeks ago and it has the bung.

The new rad I just bought here: http://www.alumrad.com/dblpass.html had a plugged off bung hole where I drew the red circle: Unfortunately it's installed and can't get a pic. Whats their price for that cooling soda can?? Here's a pic (sort of) of the bung hole: This rad is about $200 shipped.

They make a great cat replacement. :D Image Not Found

The new rad I just bought here: http://www.alumrad.com/dblpass.html had a plugged off bung hole where I drew the red circle: Unfortunately it's installed and can't get a pic.

I just did this today with the aluminum rad I poked holes in. The holes (there were two) were small, and easy to get to on the core fins. I cleaned them up with alcohol and a small brass wire brush, then swabbed a bit of JB Weld into the holes with a toothpick, then pinched them together w. needlenose pliars, put another light coat of JB and let it set for 24 hours. Brought it to our friendly neighborhood rad shop today and had it pressure tested at 14 lbs. for an hour since that's the rating of my cap. NO LEAKS! So I now have a spare. Rad shop charged me $5, but I gave him $10. :cheers:

no they don't. they don't really need them either, in my opinion. Depends on what they are used for. Certainly would help control body roll on the road.

Happy to see I'm not the only one who likes to poke holes in radiators. You, sir, now have a shot for the IDIOT OF THE MONTH award. Stand proud! :D

That's a sensor outputs a signal to the ECU which bumps up the idle about 1000 RPM when turning the steering wheel near the stops. Suppossed to prevent engine stalling, and it's only on the 4-banger.

Here's an example of MSD's universal offering. http://www.msdignition.com/new_products/5520.html Motorcycles/snowmobiles/lawnmowers, etc. mostly come standard with CDI systems. Just surf mate.

I found it when I was repairing my exhaust system. When I unbolted the cat front flange and looked in, the inlet was clogged with a gummy tar looking mung. Pulled the cat and replaced it with a CarSound freeflow cat, overheating problems went away. If you have over 100K or so and still have the original cat, it's most likely shot.

What? CDI is a capacitive discharge ignition system, not an engine computer. It's an alternative to a pulse discharge ignition system. CDI systems have been around since the 50's, and as you stated are commonly used on smaller 4-stroke engines, like motocycles, snowmobiles, etc. CDI ignition systems deliver a higher voltage to the coil primarys w. basically zero delay, thus are also used on racing engines for hotter spark. Companies like MSD and even Mopar sell add-on CDI boxes for any high performance vehicle especially for drag racers. It has nothing to do with engine computer control functions except to deliver spark to the plugs with less delay.

Had this same problem awhile back with my stock engine. Replaced everything in the coolant system. Turned out to be a clogged cat.

Yeah, I like Alex's single side shot w. the standardized template format. Chico, you never have enough time to do it otherwise mate.

From the FSM: COMANCHE STOCK HEIGHT Front: Measure from top of axle tube to underside of frame rail, inboard of the coil spring. Do NOT measure from the diff housing or shift motor housing. 2WD models should be 6-3/4" plus or minus 1/2". 4WD models should be 7-3/4" plus or minus 1/2". Rear: Measure the vertical distance between the top of the axle tube and the underside of the frame rail inboard of the jounce bumper. 2WD models should be 8.2" plus or minus 1/2". 4WD models should be 9.2 inches plus or minus 1/2".

Now if you could only find a way to adapt it to the MJ rear end..........