HOrnbrod

I'd get a remanufactured engine from a quality shop, like Jasper, who offers a great guarantee and is known to stand behind it. If something should go wrong - no worries mate.

http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog/?Ntt=chevrolet+s10+tailgate+handle+6929

Try craigslist and ebay and do a search for "Jeep Cherokee (or Comanche) parting out" and you can usually find what you want. Also car-parts.com is an excellent junk yard resource.

Yeah man, I knew that. But the Wildman picked it up instantaneously. Gotcha mate! :cheers: I did try these. Got a set locally and used them when I did my 96 booster/master/disk brake upgrade. They got most of the air out, but I still had a slightly spongy pedal after three or four tries. I then removed them and did it the old fashioned way, wheel by wheel, hose into a glass jar w. fluid in it, and extracted quite a bit more air from the system. I retained my rear load level prop valve, so that could have been the reason. :dunno: So I prefer the two-man (or woman) method. :cheers:

Dayem JT, my wife pumps mine whenever I need to do it. :D Follows directions well too. :rotfl2: And Bob, you are a very sick man. :jump:

Hey JT - why don't you get Steph to pump it for you? :brows:

:dunno: Who you speakin' at? :dunno:

Yes, they do treat you well on the phone. I only wish they treated you as well pricing out their parts too. :eek: :eek:

I'm the "someone" Dirt-man. Here are the Dorman/Help numbers for all the items. Pressure Hose 624301 Return Hose 624300 Metal tube 624334 Fittings at Tranny 800714 Made in China! Vendor: Rockauto

Yes, an obnoxious video as entitled. :D The before pic during the voting was fantastic, but what we really want to see is the AFTER pics. :cheers:

Looks like it's 52003213. 8)

http://www.jwjeep.com/

Be surprised CW. :D I'm running two of these in my rig and have bench tested them all ( the 84-95 5 bladers, 96-97 8 bladers, and the 97+ 10 bladers) trying to find a good compromise between the best CFM and amp draw. The older 5-blade XJ/MJ aux fans were the most erratic, probably because of age, and the least running amp draw I found was 14 amps. And most drew right at 20A during startup and 16A running. The 8 and 10 bladers averaged about 2A more overall, but the CFM was better, so I went with two 10 bladers finally. My recommendation to 69CamaroSS is that since I ASSume your wiring is correct, your fan is drawing too many amps. Perhaps due to age, bad bearings, corrosion on the connectors, or a combination thereof. If you swap out the fan, go with the newer 8 or 10 blade modules; they bolt right in, you just have to wire in a new connector. :cheers:

The heater water control valve (or lack therof) allows more coolant to circulate constantly thru the cooling system, so it does have something to do with the radiator, part of the cooling system. Chryco junked the water control valve in 1997. Ever been sitting in traffic on a 100+ degree day running hot, turn the HVAC controls to heat, and watch the engine temp drop instantly? X2. Well said.

Cool. It almost looks like your rotors are for 9/16" or 14mm studs. My Ford rotors are a bit sloppy too; I'll look into doing this.

Pete, couple of questions; actually more than a couple, about your wheel stud spacers you got at Lowes: 1. I realize they are 1/2' ID; what's the length and the OD? 2. Are they steel? ASSume they are...... 3. Did you have to drill out the rotor holes to get them in there? and 4. Does the rotor come off easily using them?

Yes, I've done this also. The main reason you can get possible lower engine operating temps is because w/o the water control valve, all the coolant to and from the heater core is under constant circulation, adding more coolant to the system. The constant flow through the core also helps to keep it clean and clog-free. With the valve in, the only time there is coolant flow through the heater core is when the heat is turned on and the valve opens. :D

The 15" Canyons and Ravines are definitely not the same construction-wise even though they both carry the same specs. I had Ravines on my truck w. 30" tires. I had a set of Canyons, so when I put on my 31s, I had them mounted on the Canyons just for a change. When I went to mount them on the rear, they would not clear the disk caliper; couldn't even mount the wheel by grinding the caliper. So if you ever plan on going with rear disk brakes, go with the Ravines. I think they look better too. :cheers:

Yes, it is supposed to click; this means you most likely have it wired in correctly. Are you using the existing aux fan in the vehicle? I've seen these things draw more than 25A (15-16 is the norm), which is too much for 12AWG wire, especially if it's running a fairly long distance. The wires to the fan will get warm if this is the case. And where did you tap into for the 12V+ fan power source? Is it fused?

Turn your fan off and on and see if you can hear (or feel) the relay clicking. You might have mis-wired the fan load thru two NC relay contacts or thru the coil. Easy to do........

Well, at least I got a new cooling system out of it before I found out it was the cat all along. :D BTW, some of the closed system rads do have the bung for the temp sensor. Below is the aluminum rad I use and the bung is highlighted.

This help? That's all that's in my manual regarding the BA10 shifter. Image Not Found

If you do not have air conditioning, does it make any difference? On the 4 cylinder, if you don't have A/C, you get the belt specifically for your engine w/o A/C, and vice-versa. On the I6, it's the same belt for w. A/C and w/o A/C. The sixes w/o A/C have an idler pulley in place of the compressor.

I went through this whole drill a couple of years ago, including a new rad, nothing helped. Found the problem when upgrading the exhaust - the cat was just about clogged shut. Bypassed it - no more overheating. Worth a shot.

That's absolute crap Eagle. How can you generalize like that - it's not like you. The Renix system is an troublesome antiquated Renault/Bendix hodge-podge system of sensors all wired together with bad connectors, any one of which can screw up performance and/or mileage. How many threads have I read where guys are troubleshooting these things, replacing every sensor in sight trying to fix problems, and getting nowhere? What could be easier than flipping your ignition key on an HO and reading the OBDI codes? Nine times out of ten it puts you in the ballpark for ignition and electronics problems, the only major difference between the Renix and HO. The mechanicals are basically the same in both. For me, HOs are much easier to work on and troubleshoot - I've had both. Good gas mileage is best had by a combination of maintaining peak engine efficiency by proper tuning and periodic maintenance, and by driving habits. Published factory mileage estimates actually improved when Chryco went to the HO system. 'Course, who believes any factory mileage estimates. :nuts: This is true. But who's to say this isn't good depending on what you rig is used for? Personally I'd rather have a higher peak power band for max efficiency AND the resulting better gas mileage. Having the peak torque and HP readings at lower RPMs is only good for tractors and/or off-road purposes. The ratio of on-road vs. off-road on 99% of our MJs is probably 10 to 1, if that. Who wants to peak out at 2300 RPM or so cruising down the interstate? And the best thing about HOs is that it's so much easier to develop them to their maximum potential and not be limited by an antiquated electronics system. Hell, if I wanted to go backwards I'd bypass the Renix era and go back to the 4.2 w. say a Clifford manifold, Webers, and a Mallory CDI ignition. That's nothing but personal opinion. If I wanted a pure "truck" engine I'd go with a Cummins or Mercedes diesel. Let the shi-ite storm begin! :cheers: