HOrnbrod

Sure have JT. The corkscrew active tails attract the over-achiever bream and smaller bass that drive me crazy by picking it up and carrying then dropping it. I use them mostly when I'm meat fishin'. :D

They are a type of rubber worm/soft plastic bait. Do a search and some reading on some boards like bassresource.com and I think you will want to try them I've never tried the senkos but am willing to try. Might be a good change of scenery for my local bass. I seem to have the best results with old school plastic worms, my favorite being the Manns 8" or 9" blackberry jelly worms. Big baits = big fish (unless you're six years old). :cheers:

Since I live on a lake here in 'Bama I do a lot of fishing. Ain't no monster rockfish like CW gets though. :D But plenty of bass, crappie, bream, and channel cats. The below is a 8lb 9oz largemount my six year old nephew caught out back a couple of months ago. I had it mounted for him. I've only caught two bigger, a 10/01 and a 9/09. Now that it's finally cooling down a bit, the big boys will be moving soon......... Image Not Found

Another one in progress: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

I highly recommend installing an upgraded wiring harness for the more power hungry H4s. I used this one from APC; has the relays built in and the wiring fits the MJ perfectly, and easy to install. Your new headlamps will burn brighter and your stock headlight switch and wiring will not. :eek: http://tinyurl.com/5puqoj

Congratulations! :beerhead:

Nice work CW. :D Question: Does that high-mount winch air dam cause you any cooling problems?

Been running Chevron Delo 10-30 in my stuff for years...........

As in all electronic gauges, most problems w. inaccurate readings are caused by a faulty sensor or impedence between the sensor and the gauge. The gauge only reports the resistance reading of the sensor it sees, plus the built-in circuit resistance. The gauges are usually pretty reliable. Check for tight cluster connections and clean up any corrosion first. But you already know that. :cheers:

X2 Tom, there has to be movement. That's why I was asking CW about his u-bolt plate previously.

Sure can - send an addy. :D

Good in the white stuff too. But you don't see much of that Taz. :cheers:

Shoot me a PM with your email address and I can send you the MJ parts/accessory catalog. All the decals and trims throughout the years are in it.

Jim, there's a VERY noticable difference in the way the AW4 shifts in the POWER mode on mine. Much crisper, quicker, and at a slightly RPM. It even helps mileage wise to stay in POWER. If you can't notice a difference maybe your switch is bad or the two connections to the tranny TCM are open. I've had these switches appear bad on the meter until doucheing them down with contact cleaner and working them.

Oh. Never mind - it's useless for your rig. :D

No the other socket is for the POWER/COMFORT switch illumination lamp. JT, you should stick a switch and bezel in there and get it working. The AW4 shifts much better in the POWER position IMHO.

Dayem, I wish someone closeby could check this out. It's built. Jeff? I know you're in the midst of swapping to a 4.0, and I know you'd like a 4.6 a LOT better. :D

Thanks. That's what I thought, just wanted to be sure.

Does that mean the rubber hose air filter end will go over 3" OD tubing?

Can someone with a 4.0L HO measure the circumference (or the ID) of the air filter box inlet pipe? I want to modify my K&N plastic intake hose to use only the lower filter end of it with the stock rubber intake hose, as it's rubbing on my hood vent a bit. Thanks!

I guess that's a Renix thing; no marks except for one on the damper and nothing on the front cover. I stuck ye olde timing light on anyhow, and it was rock solid at idle, the reved it up to about 2K RPM and beyond and it advanced about an inch on the damper, still solid all through the RPM range. No marks so it told me nothing except the timing was solid and I had advance. Good reference maybe for later though I guess.........

That's exactly right. These pics were sent to me from one of the guys on the stroker forum. He claims running the engine oil thru the cooler and remote filter made a big difference in the stroker engine temps.

Use the 1997+ washer bottle inside the fender well and you can do it like this: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Got it. Just haven't seen those plates before. Yea, they are old school and havent been around or avalible for some time. But they work well!! CW Old school is always best.

Got it. Just haven't seen those plates before.