HOrnbrod

Yeah, Accurate Power has been un-accurate now for quite awhile now. :cry:

Understand CW. My question was what are you using now the bottom U-bolt leaf spring anchor plates? Did ya saw off the OEM shock mount stud? Mine don't look anything like those. Just curious.... :cheers:

Some MJs came with benches with headrests. That would be the 1991 - 1992 MJ bench seat.

Okay, understand about temp / emergency repairs. :D On the above pic, I know you have your Bilsteins mounted w/o using the stock bottom spring plate w. the shock mounts, but what is that you are using now? Reckon that plate might have something to do with busting the main leaf? Also, what size spring bolt are you using? 5/16" or 3/8"? I don't see it in the pic.

For a built stroker with those accessories? That's cheap as dirt IF everything he says is true, with the build sheet parts all new. And that's his asking price - got a feeling you can get it much cheaper. It will go for that at least on Ebay. DISCLAIMER: I don't know this guy or anything about him, but he wasn't the engine builder. That's the guy I'd like to talk to. If everything he says is true, this is a good deal for a 4.6L if it was built right............

Dayem CW, you of all people should know better. :D Instead of bandaids and Crusty's junk, why don't you just break down and get a new MT leaf pack and do it right the first time. That's what you always say mate. :cheers:

Yeah, you're only about three hours away. This is definitely worth a look see. I'd head on up there if my stroker was AFU. But fortunately it's not. :cheers:

offroader461 is correct, there is only one fog lamp relay. Zero headlamp relays. The fogs only come on w. low beams in the factory circuit configuration. Turn your headlamps ON low beam, then turn the fog lamps ON while you listen (or have someone put their hand on it) for the fog lamp relay click. If it clicks, the relay is most likely good and the problem is further out toward the fog lamps.

Yeah, looks like a little rain water got in there 'cause it's been opened up for awhile, but just surface rust. Valves and piston tops look good. Wish I were close enough to go eyeball this. Dayem, the headers, 99 intake, MSD ignition, and build specs look super.

Saw this on the strokers forum. Looks like a sweet deal to me. JT, can you check it out? I think it's in Raleigh. I am selling my dream of having the baddest XJ EVER... but alas hard times have come and my loss is your gain. I bought it running and assembled and heard it run before I bought it, but never got to "ride" it because it came out of a badly rolled CJ. I disassembled it to "see what I had" -- and I was not dissappointed... and neither will you... 94 block -- decked .010 and bored .060 Speed Pro H825CP Pistons 15cc dish 94 head casting # 7120 new valves, 3 angle valve job, new springs CompCams #68-231-4 206/214 degree cam Clifford Header 2000 Intake for an extra 15 ponies MSD-6AL Off Road Ignition Box Just throw in a set of injectors and maybe a map adjuster and vroom vroom!!! You CANNOT piece all of this together for DOUBLE the cost!!!!!!!!! This engine was in a CJ that was running a Howell EFI-- from the looks of the tops of the pistons he was running a little rich--- better than lean any day!!! There was no ring wear or cam wear anywear so I believe the 5000 mile estimate on milage was accurate... this is a GOOD motor! I'm asking $1200, payment by cash, paypal or certified check... I will deliver for a cost negotiated after the sale... hell I'll even help you put it in if your close enough... I wanted to see how this sucker pulls anyway.... woo hooo!!!.... PICS HERE: email tragiccomic1972@yahoo.com or call 919-616-9934 If it hasn't sold by the end of the weekend I'll list it on e-bay. Jason

Dayem, I knew they salted the roads in OH but they salt the lawns too? :D

X2 on CRL quality products. I have their manual slider and pop-up sunroof and HAD one of their power sliders a couple of years ago and sold it like a dumbass because I thought I'd never use it with the camper shell on. :oops:

I have the old style CRL 4-pane slider. It uses the original gasket and there is a weatherstrip on the left pane slider that the right pane slides into. I think that's his problem; it's been sun welded/scorched and the two slider panes are stuck to it. Get some silicone spray and douche it down the seam inside and outside, let it sit overnight, then try to break it free from the bottom then top gently.

X2. I just started mine up yesterday and try to do it every 30 days. I use Stabil religiously in it and all the other small engines, about double what's recommended, and haven't had any gum/varnish problems in 3-4 years.

Is your slider 3-piece or 4-piece? The factory sliders were 3-piece.

My sentiments exactly. Thanks for posting that. :USAflag:

Excellent idea. I still have ye olde timing light, and the marks are there on my HO too. So are the marks supossed to line up if correct, or will I be able to see the advance, as in ye olde engines? :cheers:

I fought this for three months after I did my lift and gear change. To make a long story short, the vibes were caused by improper backlash in the rear diff.

Ohhh, that's what that is. I thought that it was a spark plug socket stuck on your spring bushing bolt. I must be slow tonight - I trying BL Lime for the first time while watching Da Bears kick @$$, and it's affecting my brain. :oops: Good one guys - but the payback will be sweet. :cheers:

Have you ever noticed women who drive Buicks are mostly terrible drivers?? BTW, WTF is a "leaf spring quick disconnect"??

:jump: Well, there was one question mark in there..............

If the Steelers were in the NFC, I'd like them, but I'm an NFC guy. I've been a lifelong Giants fan since the days Fran Tarkenton was their QB. I'm not a great Pats fan either, but I sure hope Brady isn't out for the season - or longer. No matter what you think of him, he's one of the best QBs in the game.

Hard starting is not strictly a Renix thing. I usually start much quicker when cold than when hot, but it's not all that consistent. It's almost like vapor lock. When stopping for a short time, it takes twice as many turns to start when hot, but vapor lock is a carb thing. Keeping underhood temps down usually helps on hot starts, so I'm hoping the new hood vents will help.

The park/turn signal bulbs are dual filament; the turn signal filament is of more wattage than the park filament. I think this is waht he was talking about. Me, I wouldn't care unless the bulbs blew out more often. :eek: