HOrnbrod

Like a swarm of angry mosquitoes. :D Yes, it's annoying. I had the brilliant idea one day of paralleling a 12V buzzer across the turn signal can to "remind" me the turn signals were on. Now THAT was really annoying. :headpop: It didn't last long..........

Please do! :cheers:

Not really of the whole thing. Just some bits and pieces of mods I did in the DIY section. I wish I had documented the whole thing like MJeff is doing. The below is a pic of how I bought it in Brookneal, VA in 1999. A Plain Jane base model, 2WD, 4.0 w. AW4 and A/C, but most importantly it was an HO w. a good body. :D

Errrr, me too. Not all MJs are built for off-road. :eek: Hell, I was waaaaaaay pegging the speedo coming back from Hesco today w. 4.11 gears and BFG MT's, and still was well under 4K RPM. Brought it up to 5K and had some slight vibes, and backed off. With 3.07's or lower (if available) I might even go for the land speed record! Only kidding Worlds Fastest Comanche, if you read this post. I truly admire your goal and am very interested in your progress. Check in with Bennie at Hesco, he is too. But of course, keep a tight hold on your wallet.........:cheers:

Well you guys are better than I am. :oops: :bowdown: I been into the column a couple of times to replace a new multifunction switch (when installing delay wipers), and then again to repair a loose tilt joint. I simply could NOT align the teeth, lock cylinder, and key rotation when putting it all back together - BOTH times!. Drove me crazy, spend an entire day before I had to call in reinforcements. Maybe just a brain fart / mental block on my part, and I'm not real happy admitting it. But for moi: no more column work EVER again, except to replace the whole beast. It's just a diabolically engineered piece of sheite designed to give me nightmares. Anything else, now even including changing diff gears, I can do, but the GM columns just scare the crap out of me. Would love to switch to a floor shifter, but that involves column work, so I'm living with it. :cry:

Should work, but you'll also need a new temp sensor to replace the existing temp switch you have in there now. Try this and report back. Any movement at all on the no-workie gauges at all? :cheers:

Hey Don, Do you have a picture of where this sentinel delay box is located? Anyone know if '91-'95 ones fit in '88-'90 (or if they came with them)? Here's a pic (not mine), but there's only one connector hanging down from the cluster that looks like this. And yes, all our MJs had this in the harness (except maybe not the 86's). I mounted mine on the sheet metal cross brace behind the lower das support. HTH. :cheers: Image Not Found

Keep in mind these wheels on FleaBay are replicas (read Made in China). This may or may not be okay, but I'd rather get a good used set, perhaps with good tires also, and save some $$. You can always blast and paint them any color you want. :cheers:

Power Distribution Center, #7 in the below. It's an electrical enclosure box that sits on the right inner fenderwell on 91+ HO models. It contains relays and fuses that you will have to wire in on your HO swap. If Boilermaker has the complete 91 harness, it should be included with the harness. Hopefully he'll also include all the sensors and mounting brackets so you can just plug them all in. I highly suggest investing in the electrical 1991 FSM too - it will be your friend. :cheers: Image Not Found

Funny you should ask that. I recently installed the 99+ manifold and a Unichip, and posted the dyno runs over on the stroker forum. Made a hell of a difference, but I was getting slight stumbling when the AW4 was lugging under load in O/D at around 2000 RPM as they are prone to do. So I took the scenic drive down to Hesco today (just got back). They leaned it out in the 1950-2100 RPM range and left the rest as is. Nice you can do that w. the Unichip instead of just retarding or advancing the timing for the whole RPM range. It's FLYIN' now. :eek: Been thru three tankfulls now since doing the above mods, and am getting 16.5 city, 20 highway. That's about 1.5 MPG better than before. It's a more efficient burn with the new style intake. I went 4.5 so if needed I could bore it out another .030 w/o getting a new block. Hesco says my dyno readings are equal to or better than the 4.6's they have tested, and on a par w. the 4.7s'. I put in a TeraFlex kit on my D35 that uses 1999 era Ford Explorer rotors and pads. One of the reasons I got this kit was because it's easily transferable to the D44; just have to swap out the backing plates. Sooner or later the D35 will prolly blow up, that's when the 44 will go in. No problem, and thank you! :cheers:

Well, 91 was a bastard year in some cases too, the year they went from Renix to OBDI HO. I have found some little things that are not quite the same as the newer OBDI models, but they escape me at the moment. You should be okay, as long as the new harness and ECU match the engine and tranny you have, and the donor harness/ECU was NOT one that had the optional security system installed. I've been working with a guy on NAXJA who is having problems getting spark to the plugs being caused by a security system lockup electronic somewhere. And make sure you get the PDC too. Oh, and you can get the codes on OBDI systems too using the key trick. :cheers:

Wahoo is right, these are the Ravine wheels. 15" x 8". The black might look okay on some rigs, but the gold never IMHO. :D For those talented w. chopping photos, have at it. :cheers:

I did the same thing. Another useful feature is the Headlamp Sentinel delay feature. I had the delay module sitting around in a box of electrical stuff, and plugged just it in, the wiring was already there. It works fine, just turn the key off, pull the key, then shut off the headlights. They stay on about 30 seconds, then click off. If you don't want the delay feature, shut off the headlights first, then the ignition. :cheers:

Am also real sorry to hear about Roscoe. Here's pic of Gus II. He's only three, and we got him to replace Gus I, who lived to be a little over 15 years old. He grew up with our daughters, and lived all over the world with us. He doesn't replace Gus II, nothing could, but he sure helps. I just gave him an extra hug. Image Not Found

Look like the IOD connector in mine. But I don't know if the Renix era had these........ Explanation: The "Ignition Off Draw" connector and fuse (IOD). The term ignition-off draw identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. The IOD connector feeds the memory and sleep mode functions for some of the electronic modules in the vehicle as well as various other accessories that require battery current when the ignition switch is in the Off position, including the clock. The IOD connector can be used by the vehicle owner as a convenient means of reducing battery depletion when a vehicle is to be stored for periods not to exceed about twenty days (short-term storage). Simply disconnect the IOD connector from the JB receptacle slot # 15 and place it in slot # 11 (see diagram above). However, it must be remembered that disconnecting the IOD connector will not eliminate IOD, but only reduce this normal condition. When a vehicle will not be used for more than twenty days, but less than thirty days, remove the IOD fuse from the Power Distribution Center (PDC).

Aye, spent many years in VA (Hanover and Gloucester counties), but gotta admit I much prefer a bit more south. Better weather, cheaper living, etc., but both places qualify. :cheers:

Looks like an excellent solid carcass to build upon Pete-man. What's your plan? Moving down to God's country in the future perhaps after school?

Yes, yes I did. :D No immediate plans (heck, the next time I'm in Georgia my plan is to push it out of the garage and wash it, then push it back in), but unless something comes up, I'll likely be building it someday to replace the 88 as my wheeler. And it'll never ever touch salt covered roads. EVER! That's great Pete. Very wise investment for the future mate. :cheers:

I see you're into the stroker forum - you'll get some good answers there. :D I know you're strictly limited in the class by displacement, but are there other limitations? Like high RPM HP producing mods like the Hesco alloy head, roller rocker arms and timing sets, cams, and ignition chips? I got some great results with the Unichip. Are you anywhere near Hesco in Birmingham? No one makes these engines go like they do.

Hey Pete! Did you finally get a good no-rot Southern body to work with? :D

Just curious, are you TallPeter from the strokers forum?

Yep. They are direct replacements.

What??? :roll:

The Jeep OEM regulators are junk, I think designed to fail after about three years. I used these regulators from Electric Life when I installed power windows. The "snake" is stainless, and they are about twice as fast as the OEM regulators. A bit cheaper too, and NOT made in China. I think Quadratech sells them separately also.

It attached to the upper shock mounts. If you call them they will send install instructions. The long bed and short bed shock mounts are in different locations (one is ahead of the axle; one is behind), so it would not work on mine. A friend of mine out in Cali has one mounted on his short bed model and loves it.