HOrnbrod

Chico, this is a long thread and refresh my memory. Have you ever actually boiled over? Like after 30 minutes in traffic or on a long climb up a long grade? Or are the overheating problemos strictly based on temp gauge (and external laser sensor) readings? I forget..............

Functionally they are the same. The bezels were different; the older style was black or woodgrain w. chrome edges; the newer ones were all black. They had black switches too.

I didn't mean diesels Sam! :cheers:

I use an auxilliary Maxi-ATC fuse panel for all my higher amperage stuff, like the electric fans, H4 headlamps, power windows, etc. You just have to make sure to keep the main feed to the new fuse panel as short as possible and ensure that it is sized large enough to feed 100% of the total branch circuit load plus 25% minimum. As far as a grounding buss bars, this is done sometimes with non-metallic bodied vehicles. I had an old fiberglass Studebaker Avanti once that used copper buss bars for grounding that were all tied back to a single negative point on the battery. But if your chassis and body grounds are large enough and tied in a standard loop configuration at corrosion-free tiepoints, I see no reason to do this with a steel bodied vehicle. HTH

I think spark plugs are somewhat vehicle specific. My motor runs best by far w. the Champion copper cores, at the RC10 heat range. I used to have several W203 and W124 series Benz's, and they wouldn't run on anything well except the Bosch copper cores. As for the other junk (lawnmowers, pressure washer, generator, etc.) I use mostly NGKs.

Email Jim Blair [carnuck@hotmail.com]. I think that's where he lives.

Another reason why NOT to use NGK plugs. I'll stick to my Champions........

1991 and up.

The polarity of the sender was reversed in the 91+ as stated above. There is a 3-pin connector on top of the fuel tank. The sensor (variable resistor) outputs to the gauge are pin A (ground, BLK wire) and pin B (variable resistance out, BLU wire). The wire colors may be different for your model, but the pins should be the same. Swap these two wires and it should work correctly. It still will not be 100% accurate because the sensor resistance values are different between the two, but at least the needle will go in the right direction. :D

100% absolutely correct! :cheers:

The fog light wired switch connector is present in the dash cavity. The switch connector is already wired to turn off the fog lights when it receives 12V from the high beams (the VIO/WHT wire). This wire was not shown in my drawing. I chose to remove it and wire in my own 12 source thru the switch so I can turn the fog lights on when I wanted them on (Yes, I know, illegal :eek: ). A new fog light switch must be added and plugged in. The output of the switch is also already there in the harness (BRN/WHT wire), and terminates on pin 10 of the 10-pin fwd. bulkhead connector. Everything after pin 10 to the fog lights has to be added; the relay, wiring, and of course the lights themselves. I made my own fog light harness, you are correct, there is no fog light harness present. I only used the existing wiring present from the fog light switch to the bulkhead connector. I realize the OP was asking about driving lights, but of course this circuit can be used to control them also. Hope this makes sense now......

Got it. I did a swap in my C-clip D35 (3.55 to 4.11) for the first time and had a hell of a problem with the new crush sleeve not crushing, which screwed up the pinion preload, resulting in low speed vibes. Ended up after much trial and error re-using the original crush sleeve, and all is well - so far. I still don't understand all I learned regarding diff gear swaps. Gear swaps (and steering column rebuilding) are two tasks I will leave to the experts in the future. :D

Dayem Eagle, what took you so long for the reminder? :D DISCLAIMER: Check your local and fed regs for compliance, Eagle is correct of course regarding the regs. My post was meant to be a means of wiring additional lights thru a somewhat more substantial and safer method than "grabbing your radio RED hot wire and just parallel the connection to the additional lights" or whatever the previous poster said. :nuts: I'd rather see compliance to proper wiring techniques completed to prevent a dash harness meltdown than compliance with a seldom enforced fed or local law. And if you really want/need to comply to the fog/driving lights only activated at LOW headlamp, simply use the existing feed to the fog lamp switch that controls the relay coil instead of using a 12V ign. switched feed.

Additional driving and/or fog lights should ALWAYS be controlled through a relay. The below is a wiring schematic showing how you can add fog or driving lights using the existing dash harness thru the firewall to the 10-pin forward bulkhead connector. This can be adapted for bumper/bull bar/roll bar mounted lights. Image Not Found

Not really. Curb weight for a 2WD LWB MJ w. the 4.0 is about 3,090 lbs. A similarly equipped XJ weighs in at about 3060 lbs. That's about a sack or two of groceries difference. I seriously doubt either a stock 4.0 XJ or MJ will have a chance against the Camaro. :cheers:

Pretty sure #1 is for the Sentinel headlight delay module. Image Not Found

I guess it's too late for pics?

Yeah, I see Tomahawked's post after I posted (I type sloooooooow). Hopefully he got the used gears set right. Still would like to know the before and after ratios. :cheers:

Sounds like you swapped a used ring and pinion set (ratio unknown) from the newer donor XJ c-clip D35 diff into your existing MJ non-c-clip D35 (also ratio unknown). No road test yet. :eek: It's doable AFAIK (but very difficult to do right w. used gears unless you're good), but need to know the before/after ratios of the MJ diff you swapped into to determine if you might have possible carrier ratio cutoff problems. The axle bearings and drums of the XJ donor and MJ recipient seem to be consistent w. c-clip and non-c-clip D35s, but need more details. :cheers:

Now that you got 'er done I just remembered how I used to loosen the balancer bolt w/o wedging something up in the flywheel to keep the engine from turning over. Sometimes they can be a bear. You get the right socket on the balancer bolt head hooked to a breaker bar, wedge the bar against the frame, pull the coil wire, and bump the starter. The bolt backs right out. :cheers: Chico-man, can you post a pic of the old deteriorated harmonic balanced you replaced?

Sounds like an excellent plan of attack. I'll file this away for future use. Thanks! :cheers:

That same thing happened to me a few years ago and I used an EZout to remove it. But since the sensor bulb where the EZout will be biting into the soft brass bulb sensor housing, it ate thru the brass and buggered up the pipe threads in the head. So I had to drill it out and re-tap it, then install a new 1/2" NPT to 3/8" NPT brass bushing. Not a big deal, but there's not much room to work in back there............... 8)

Was the old temp gauge shorted across the terminals or from a terminal to ground? Would like to know for future reference.

I think you will be okay using your original dash harness. Worst case scenerio would be that you would have to match and splice the new harness wires on the the old male bulkhead connector pigtail. You'll need both model bulkhead connector pinout diagrams to do this. Doing it this way you could retain your cluster w. the mech speedo. The fuel gauge (different polarity) and tach are also different in the HO clusters.

Which one's the Bogger?