HOrnbrod

I've never seen an aftermarket pan, but I'm going to make one of these pretty soon: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAutoDeepPan.htm

Pete; Any way you could lose this: and replace it with this: Image Not Found Or are your hands tied legally?

Just install disk brakes and forget about it. No more adjustments, no non-functional self-adjusters, no springs and lever hardware to rot out, it's a no brainer not to. :cheers:

Just ordered Direct TV, Charter Cable has pi$$ed me off for the last time. Good package w. HBO, SHO, and Starz at about 1/2 the price of cable. Plus free install on four TVs. Should have done this years ago......

NYG 21 PIT 14 How sweet it is............. :D

Dayem, I thought I was on the strokers forum. :huh???:

The properties on that pic were from Jim the yucca-man on NAXJA; I had no idea it's was your's Pete. But now that you mention it - it had to be MI rust. It's so uniformly distributed over everything. Don't happen that way in CO, only in MI. :cheers:

Damn am I pissed. We had a scheduled power outage tonight starting 2300 with a predicted 3-hour down time. Our Mom and Pop Electric Co-op had to do repairs on their crappy grid system. The Pavlik-Hopkins fight was to be rebroadcast at 2300, plus I was planning on watching the delayed World Series game three at the same time. So I was all prepared, fired up my generator when the power went off at exactly 2300, all was well for about 10 minutes. Then the cable signal crapped out. The cable fools don't even have battery backup! What a one-horse third-world place Arab, AL is. In fact I had better power whist living in the third world! Come Monday I'm $#!&-canning cable and getting satellite TV, DISH or DTV. This sucks. What do you guys think of satellite TV, those who have it? But at least the internet is still working.............. :headpop: Okay - rant over.............

Hey Joop! That's Yucca-man's axle. Got a pic of your own two AMC20's? Just want to see if your junk in Norway rusts as bad as in Colorado. :cheers:

Paintscratch.com

Paintscratch.com calls HA2 Light Quartz, but I think that's your color. :D

It's a rear driveshaft. What does this have to do w. this thread?

The OEM paint code is stamped on the ID plate on the firewall. See this thread: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7631&highlight=paint+code

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10293&highlight=sun+visor

Crap. I thought these guys were in FL. AZ, too far shipping wise. It's the cleanest design for the MJ rear I've seen and w. the built in hitch would prolly save a bit of weight over the stock bumper + the hitch I have now. Ain't no chroming places here. I think they are all out in Cali. :cry:

Rich, can I get one in chrome? Seriously.... :cheers:

Pic of the last trailer I lived in from 1994-1996 until Mama and the kids could join me. It was 12 feet wide by 55 feet long and was located beachfront in the Marshall Islands on Kwajalein Atoll. An Army base. A view from the front porch. It's location, location, location. Don't matter what the abode is. :cheers:

Yes, normal no-load arm position for mine (before lift w. cap) was about 30-45 degrees above parallel. If you still have your old rod, you can pull the two end caps off and make a new longer rod from 1/4" stock. I just followed the bend contours of the old rod and extended the center section the height of my lift. The ends require a little grinding and filing so the end caps will snap back on and lock. OR you can cut your old rod in half, thread each cut end, and insert a long 1/4x20 internally threaded hex standoff w. locknuts on each end like below and fine tune it to any length you want. Jeep should have put in an adjustable rod to begin with like other manufacturers' load leveling valves are designed.

Oh, ok, I thought someone said the "factory location" was on the tailgate somewhere. I ASSumed the photo C-Dub posted was a picture of the sticker but not necessarily in the factory spec'd location. Factory location for the Metric Ton badge is lower right tailgate corner.

Look up at CW's post. :D Lower right corner of the back glass.

it had the heavy rear springs when i got it but as of now the rear springs have been replaced with the ones out from under the front of a Jeep J20 3/4 ton truck. but it didn't have the build sheet with it when i got it had been used by a tree service Lewt, sounds like you now have a Big Two Ton MJ! Dayem, must ride nice.

I just re-read the level adjustment procedure in my 91 FSM - no spring involved in the procedure. Then I looked up the valve itself in the parts manual - there are two different valves. The 1990 and below (p/n 52002389) does have this external spring, so I assume this is what Eagle is mentioning. In 91 the valve changed (p/n 52005758) and there's no external spring. Another "upgrade" when the HO's came out? Taz, if you read this, are there any valves of either type left at some dealership? I agree, and if and when my valve goes bad, I'll either use the Wilwood valve, or better yet, since I'm basically a lazy bastid, replace it with a newer Toyota load sensing valve so I don't have replumb the lines. :D I want to keep the rear variable brake biasing capability since I haul loads frequently.

Not so with mine. Before I put disks on and the 96 booster/master, the bias w. the truck unloaded was about 75% front, 25% rear. I could lock up all four wheels (31"), although it required a lot of brake pedal pressure on my part. There is an adjustment procedure for setting the valve arm position in the FSM. Rich, the normal operating position of the valve arm is nearly parallel with the axle. Zip-tieing it pointing UP (if that's what you did) should make it worse. Tie the arm parallel to the axle and see if it helps. Or your valve may be shot internally, i.e. the diaphram may be gone. I don't think they are rebuildable.

Thanks Pete. Have to get me some of those brochures. :cheers:

So what came with the off road package? 4WD, D35, D30 only?