HOrnbrod

Instead of throwing parts at it, invest in a cheap fuel pressure gauge and check out what the FP is doing. Sounds like your pressure regulator may be heading south.

These will, and net you 2"-3" lift too depending on the weight of your camper: CLICK Here Specs: o New manufactured Metric Tonne leaf spring o Has the same specs as Jeep leaf spring part number 52003676 o Five leaf, three thinner top leafs and 2 heavier bottom leafs o 1500 # load rating o 130 - 275 spring rate, 9-5/8" arch o 26" x 31" x 5-leaf, 2-1/2" wide

Wow, I didn't know that. Thanks for sharing that observation. :cheers:

The look started long ago, 1936 to be exact: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Ain't she pretty??

Where you located Wanker?

Crap, you're right. Forgot about that........... :brows:

Know what you mean. Craigslist is localized, but worth a shot. Ebay reaches more potential buyers, especially w. a specialized item like this. There are a couple there now. And shipping on Greyhound wouldn't be too bad either.

:D That's a good start fiat-man, but you have a loooong way to go. :cheers:

I've used these types of pumps for years. Their purpose is to pressurize waveguide (the transmission lines for a microwave system from the tower dish to the transmit/receiving equipment on the ground) or underground telephone outside plant cable with a moisture free gas, usually nitrogen, to prevent water entry/corrosion and the resulting transmission loss. Most of the microwave systems have been replaced by fiberoptic cable, and the pressurized outside plant cable is now mostly gel filled, but these systems are still around, especially the microwave systems in mountainous areas and 3rd world countries. This is a real small mobile unit, while the ones I worked on were permanently installed at the site. Put it up on Ebay, it'll sell. No idea for how much though.......Start it out for what you paid and put a reserve on it.

BAMA 27 LSU 21 in OT! Another nail biter

No offense Wolfpack, now that you mention it. That is a pretty crusty area just outside the main gate. :eek:

I guess I'm not a high class guy like you, 'cause I can't pick up what you're putting down. Care to explain?? :nuts:

I've been bench testing a Ford 4-digit touchpad that I will wire into the passenger door power lock soon, but I'll still have the old low tech hidden magnetic key available IF I need it. I'll write it up when I get around to doing it. :D

Then your buddy must be a dumba$$. There are a zillion places to hide a magnetic keybox on the vehicle where nobody can find them, and a ga-zillion more places if you know how to reach up under the left front and pop the hood. Makes zero sense to bust out a window. :nuts:

Here's a pic of my buddy Gus II. He's afraid of the chair because he fell off it a couple of times. When I put a cracker up there and he'll sit and stare, growl, whine, and bark at it for hours at a time trying to coax it down. He cracks me up. :D Image Not Found

Good chance you fried the PCM.

There are a couple different double diaphragm boosters. One has a short rod and one has a long rod. You need the one with the short rod. The end of the rod on ours has a flat side on the rounded end of the rod where the brake light switch connects. The double booster is round on all sides. So you need to grind one side flat. If I remember it is the bottom. Then you need to drill out the hole at the end of the rod a little bigger so the sleeve for the brake switch will fit in. I don't remember the size drill bit you need. The fitting that go into the prop valve are an odd size and are hard to find. Your best bet is to cut them off the old brake line that goes from the booster to the prop valve and put them on the new piece of brake line. You will need a double flare tool to flare the brake lines. Do a few practice ones on the old brake line first till you get the hang of it. It is actually really simple and can be done in a few houres. xj_dummy; your profile soes not say what year your MJ is. For my 91 is was a direct bolt-on. The only thing I had to do was fab new brake lines from the 96 master cylinder to the existing combo valve. The booster arm was the correct length for my brake pedal and slipped over the existing stud, no mods required.

Dual diaphram booster (1996 XJ) Image Not Found

Yeah, most of the big chroming shops are in Cali - go figure! There are none around here. Some of these wheel specialists do an exchange on OEM wheels; you send in a set, and they send back a reconditioned chrome set, not necessarily your wheels.

:D Got that right Sam.........

This is how the circuit flows on HI speed. The 12V output from the fuse goes into pin 8 of the 10-pin connector behind the heater control panel. From there it goes to the Heat Mode select switch, then directly into the blower switch. When in the HI position, it goes to the pin B of the Blower Resistor pack, where it's spliced directly back to pin 6 of the 10-pin connector, then directly to the hot side of the motor. You really should invest in an electrical FSM - it will be your best friend. :D

I think you did - several times. :D :cheers:

I think you did - several times. :D :cheers:

Thanks JT - but your pic taking skills need work too, like mine. :D Reckon that Honda cover might fit? Oh, 4-banger, never mind. Looks great though. I'm going to have a friend powder coat mine w. the cover the same (or close as I can find) same as my body color, w. polished ribs. I'll do the prep, and the finish. Here's the prep so far on a spare: Image Not Found